I recently picked up a used third AmStd P5 with the intention of having the neck professionally defretted. My only issue with it is cosmetic - I already have a sunburst/rosewood P5, and I'd like to make the look of this one different. I was originally planning on swapping out the body with a natural finished ash one from Warmoth but they don't make one in AmStd P5 configuration. So, it looks like a refin is the answer. The grain on this one appears OK, and I'm not seeing any nasty boards through the finish. I know it's a crapshoot until the finish is off, but I think I'll be OK. I would reuse the original tort PG and all the hardware. Here a pic I lifted from one of the Sadowsky club threads that shows a natural finished alder body with a rosewood board and tort PG, I think I like the look: I think I'd like to try this with a Tru-Oil finish. I've used the stuff for gunstocks and like how you can change the appearance simply by controlling the number of coats you apply - a nice low sheen finish with two or three applications all the way up to a deep full gloss when you do a dozen or more. It's easy to work with, too. I'm thinking I'll strip the body and try applying some Tru-Oil under the pickguard and see how I like it. Has anyone here tried a Tru-Oil finish on alder? I've been finding some pics on der webz but would welcome firsthand experiences. Thanks!
If you want a low gloss finish, consider Formby's low gloss tung oil. Its a bit easier in application, and it smells a whole lot better. My concern with the body is that it may be a multi piece body with a veneer on top and back so the burst looks like a single piece body. You can probably test this by checking if the grain in the neck pocket matches the top.
Good idea, thanks! I don't think this one is veneer, I can see what looks like separate boards - but it's best to check first. I'll check out the Formby's, too.
Both are good choices as is boiled linseed oil. I've used BLO on both ash (gorgeous) and alder (pretty good looking, too). Tung oil works nicely and is a bit harder (these are gnats eyelashes we're splitting here) than the other two. Boiled linseed has a natural yellow cast to it much like nitrocellulose lacquer. The only caveat to oil on alder is that alder is relatively soft. A fingernail can make a dent in this species. That aside, oil finishes feel great under your forearm. And your thumb! As far as odor goes, you have to love the smell of tru oil in the morning. There's nothing like it. (with apologies to John Milius and Francis Ford Coppola)
I am pretty sure Formby's is mostly BLO with varnish and drying agents, so yeah it drys a slightly harder, but most importantly it drys faster. Looks wise, I agree, you are splitting gnats eyelashes.
That's something I hadn't considered - the durability/hardness of the finish. Maybe Formby's is the answer. I was originally thinking a wipe-on satin poly - maybe that would be a better choice? What got me thinking Tru-Oil is the ability to get a deep, glossy finish.
Wipe on polys are pretty flexible. Really won't protect against denting. The oil will look great, especially if you apply enough coats to get the deep, glossy finish. Close up it's like looking into rather than at.
Minwax also makes a tung oil finish I have used on the backs of my half-fanned P/J & guitar. wipe on, wipe off, dry a day, buff, repeat until the desired number of coats and depth of finish is achieved. I really like the smooth finish when buffed out.