Removing carpet/glue from cab

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Oren Hudson, Feb 27, 2010.


  1. Oren Hudson

    Oren Hudson

    Dec 25, 2007
    Gastonia, NC
    My 8-10 SVT cab was stripped of its tolex and covered with carpet 20 years ago by the previous owner. The problem is, he was an upholsterer and must have used some super super glue. I've managed to get the bulk of the carpet off, but there remains a ton of fuzz and residue. I've used every remover I can think of and even tried a belt sander, but I've had very little success. What in the world will it take to get this down to all wood so I can re-tolex it? :help:
     
  2. will33

    will33

    May 22, 2006
    austin,tx
    36 grit sandpaper, if that doesn't work, some furniture stripper, acetone, paint thinner or whatever type of solvent happens to work. Still going to need the sandpaper....
     
  3. barrybass33

    barrybass33 Supporting Member

    Jan 7, 2008
    westchester new york.
    wallpaper scraper... then sand lightly.
    Its some thing like contact cemet glue.
     
  4. mcapote

    mcapote

    Sep 9, 2009
    Miami Florida
    I use a rotary sander with 36 grit paper, when im stripping contact adhesive. you will use probably 10 -15 pads doing it but it really is the most effective way, just keep the sander moving so it dont goop up as quick.
     
  5. There's a product I've used a few times to strip things like this - but you've gotta be careful if the base material is made from cheap plywood with bad glue or inferior laminated assembly processes.

    It's called "Aircraft Specialty-Spruce Stripper" and is available from most home-built aircraft parts suppliers. The store I used for my aircraft parts is in Fullerton, CA., but there are other stores around the US.

    Some professional automotive paint stores will sell you and "Aircraft Paint Stripper" too if you ask them.

    It can remove the oldest and hardest dope-paint, shellacs, enamels and acrylic paints, fabric and other super-adhesives and epoxy glues.

    The one I used was endorsed by Piper, Citabria and other aircraft manufacturers that use a wooden or even aluminum spar or sub-frame assembly. It's an ammonia-based chemical, so use a lot of fresh air and rubber gloves, but once it's neutralized with just plain water and a little sunshine, it's very rapidly reduced to just hydrogen and oxygen and liberates out of the wood.

    HTH.
     
  6. Oren Hudson

    Oren Hudson

    Dec 25, 2007
    Gastonia, NC
    Thanks for the tips. As soon as we get back to our normal (warmer and dryer) weather here in the Carolinas, I'll give these a try. :cool:
     
  7. Primary

    Primary TB Assistant

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