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Repair Peavey 1820?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by travatron4000, Jan 5, 2004.


  1. travatron4000

    travatron4000

    Dec 27, 2000
    Chicago, IL
    I've have this Peavey 1820 sitting around for a couple of years and never used it. It's pretty busted up. I'll put up a pic if someone tells me how. the top left corner is totally split open and theres a big chunk missing. the 10" from that side has a cracked/bent basket resulting in a crease in the speaker, though that can be replaced.

    My question is: Has anyone had this cab and does it sound good enough for me to repair?

    I've thought about building a replacement myself to the same dimensions as the original and re-using the same components. Thought about using roll on bed liner(for pickup truck beds) as a covering. I just sent an e-mail out to Low Down Sound(lowdownsound.com which i found out about on another thread)to see if they could build a replacement. They're a couple of hours from where i live. We'll see how much they'll say it'll cost.

    My goal is to end up with a good loud cab for my punk rock band. w/o paying as much as i would for gear i dont have(new or used). And if is will cost a similar ammount will it be worth it?

    Thanks,

    Travis
     
  2. ESP-LTD

    ESP-LTD

    Sep 9, 2001
    Idaho
    I've cut into a couple of Peavey cabs; they are built like tanks. I'd be very surprised if yours has structural damage that can't be patched up.

    They sound pretty good, just heavy.
     
  3. I used an 1820 for about ten years and the above sentence pretty much sums up my experience/opinion of them.;)
     
  4. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

    Sep 7, 2000
    Chicago
    You can just attach the image (bmp, gif or jpg)in the "attach file" field.

    If you host the image somewhere you can have it appear directly, but I've never done that.

    At any rate, please do post a picture because I'd like to see this poor cabinet!!!

    How's life at Northern? Much snow yet?
     
  5. travatron4000

    travatron4000

    Dec 27, 2000
    Chicago, IL
    here's the big hole in the front, the speaker has been taken out.
     
  6. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

    Sep 7, 2000
    Chicago
    I'm not entirely sure what the photos are showing...but if it's what I think it is, you might be best off cutting out the baffle for the 10s, adding some wood bracing and installing a new baffle.

    How on earth did the cabinet get damaged like that?

    If you can, please take a picture of the whole cabinet with some brighter lighting.
     
  7. travatron4000

    travatron4000

    Dec 27, 2000
    Chicago, IL
    when i got it the left side was sticking out off to the side but we reattached the corner cover and put in a some wood screws. this is the top, front, left corner
     
  8. travatron4000

    travatron4000

    Dec 27, 2000
    Chicago, IL
    The left side is split down near the board that seperates the 2x10" space and the 18" space, i could cut off the 2x10 part and build it back. the right side and back are fine though, i dont suppose its possible to disassemble the cab. seperate the top and left side and just replace those? Its looks really solid and i dont think i could jsut pound it off. It's datoed, glued and stapled.

    I've also pondered making it 2 seperate cabs and wiring the crossover in the 2x10" and wiring the output to the 18 that normally runs inside the cab to an output jack and installing an input jack on the 18" cab left over.
     
  9. ESP-LTD

    ESP-LTD

    Sep 9, 2001
    Idaho
    I think I'd pull the 10's, and the cut off the baffle board (front thatholds the speakers) across just at the top of the board that seperates the 2 sections. That would leave the 18" section essentially untouched and structurally sound. You could then build up the face of the 10" section with 1x2 and screw a new baffle board in place for that.

    Someone must have dropped it off a moving truck or out of a window; that box is tough.
     
  10. MJ5150

    MJ5150 Terrific Twister

    Apr 12, 2001
    Lacey, WA
    after thoroughly examining those pics, i can see that your cab is not worth fixing.....you better just throw it out.....since they are quite heavy, give me your address, and i can come pick it up and haul it away for you...hehehe :D

    i have wanted the 1820 cab for years.....fix it dude...it will sound awesome....you'll be glad you did.

    -Mike
     
  11. travatron4000

    travatron4000

    Dec 27, 2000
    Chicago, IL
    yeah i think it fell out of a pickup bed. if i was gonna cut the front out i could just cut half out. But the problem is that there's a hole inthe top too and the left side is cracked. If i replaced the front the top and side of that corner would still be messed up. i dont know if you can see that in the pics. the shot from the top shows the hole thats there but that whole corner is really splintered.

    i guess i could cut that whole corner out and replace it. here're some more pics that might show that corner better. remember that when i got it that whole side was sticking out at a 45 degree angle. this should show how far back it's split, if i take the wood screws out i put in i can seperate it back to this point. the side is split down the plys. if the plys look like this

    |||||||
    mine looks like this for a ways
    ||| split||||

    i'll post another that'll show the hole in the top.
     
  12. travatron4000

    travatron4000

    Dec 27, 2000
    Chicago, IL
    sorry my camera isnt too sharp
     
  13. travatron4000

    travatron4000

    Dec 27, 2000
    Chicago, IL
    oops for got to put the pic on
     
  14. ESP-LTD

    ESP-LTD

    Sep 9, 2001
    Idaho
    You might try some patching epoxy; it's designed to fill in spaces and you could work it into the split plywood and let it setup.

    I guess my point is that it's worth trying to fix. If it turns out to be nasty then you can always try more major surgery.

    If I was going for more major stuff, I'd lop off the top as far up as I could and replace it to make a single 18", and then add a jack for an external 2x10 cab.
     
  15. travatron4000

    travatron4000

    Dec 27, 2000
    Chicago, IL
    i'm thinking i'll go right for the major cut, I think it'll be easier to build a box than half a box, and this way the covering will match and there wont be any joints it weird places.

    my question now is what to cover it with? and where do i get it? I've always wondered if roll on bed liner would work ok. it would be easier around the corners than trying to put on carpet or some other cover that comes on a roll my self. Also, is the black paint on the inside conductive paint to sheild the outside world from the magnets or just black primer?
     
  16. BillyB_from_LZ

    BillyB_from_LZ Supporting Member

    Sep 7, 2000
    Chicago
    I second what ESP-LTD has recommended...

    Now's a good time for a project anyway..it's winter, you're buried in snow in Marquette (I went to Tech and you guys usually had more snow than we did) and what are you going to do besides study, ski and do 12 oz curls?:D

    Have fun!!!!
     
  17. ESP-LTD

    ESP-LTD

    Sep 9, 2001
    Idaho

    Just regular old black paint is fine; there is little magnetic shielding required. I like a satin finish but flat is nice' .99 cent spray can works fine.

    I did my last cabs in carpet (http://www.partsexpress.com) and stuck it on with a latex based contact cement. It worked surprising well (although next time I'd use a cheaper and more noxious toluene based cement). Put $5 worth of plastic corners on it and it will look great.
     
  18. travatron4000

    travatron4000

    Dec 27, 2000
    Chicago, IL
    ok i'll type this again.

    here are the battle plans.

    I'm gonna build a seperate cabinet. It'll make it easier to move. The dimensions are the same as the original enclosure just not attached to anything. The joints are a little different also, but they should be more than solid enough.

    I'll want to recover the top of the 18" cab where there used to be 2 10's. I'll also attach a piece of 3/4 to make the lip that sticks out past the front baffle, along with some handles, and an input jack.

    I'll put the original crossover/input unit in the 2x10" and run an output jack to the wire that's supposed to run to the 18".

    Will the 3/4" i get locally be fine? It'll probabally be oak or something like that.

    That parts express site looks like a good place for covering, corners, feet, etc. Thanks ESP-LTD.

    I'll probabally chop the top off the original tomorrow. I'm actually at home down state in Standish, MI. I wont be able to take the whole project up with me when I leave thursday but I'll leave the plans with my dad and hopefully he cah at least get the basic cab built. Then I can finish next time i'm home. He's got all the tools though. I'll be a while before i can afford the replacement speaker basket anyway.