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repairing small chips in lacquer

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Chris Paget, Jun 16, 2019.

  1. Jun 16, 2019 #1
    Chris Paget

    Chris Paget

    Sep 1, 2008
    So I have a new Fender PJ bass with a nitrocellulose lacquer finish. At practice last week in a very tiny space, the drummer's crash hit the bottom and knocked out a small chip down to the wood.. the very first chip. I would like to repair it if possible, also to prevent it from growing. Understanding that wear is going to happen, I've also heard lacquer can be fairly forgiving... if you find the right solution.

    I've googled and read a bit and, just from a search at the store, ended up comparing Liquid Nails sealant, Minwax lacquer, superglue, and even "Hard as Nails" for coating fingernails (initial search was for "clear nail lacquer," which was recommended as a common luthier solution).

    Can anybody recommend any of these? I certainly don't want to take a Sally Hansen fingernail product from Walmart to my bass if it is not going to the be "secret trick" I'd hope it would be! Leaning towards Minwax lacquer or liquid nails at this point. Liquid nails is at least paintable, which might come in handy for a small area where the color match would not have to be perfect.

    Thanks!!
     
    Last edited: Jun 16, 2019
  2. Jun 16, 2019 #2
    CharlieB

    CharlieB

    Jun 15, 2019
    That is gonna be a painus in the anus, due to the variations in "white blonde". But you can get it close. You might have to mix "blonde" (white blonde) with "mary kaye" (also white blonde) to get it right, and... do a bunch of testing. I'd try first with "blonde" (white blonde), as a test, then go from there.

    Unfortunately, those colors are commonly sold in aerosols. So.... you'll have to do the ol' spray it into a cup (clean dry babyfood jar is great). Then its a matter of drop fill, let it sit at least a week, maybe two because of the thickness. Scrape almost level. Then level with fine paper, 800 will do, and hand buff.

    If you're not used to working with lacquer, this ain't the job for you. There are great lacquer working, leveling, drop filling, polishing tips over at Frank Ford's www.frets.com

    A picture of the chipped area might be good to post....
     
  3. Jun 16, 2019 #3
    Chris Paget

    Chris Paget

    Sep 1, 2008
    Thanks so much for the info! So, on one hand, I've heard lacquer is forgiving. I also have never attempted it. It is a super small chip, so level of difficulty does play into whether letting it be or not.

    In terms of mixing colors though, would one option be to use another source for the pigment and mix it with a clear lacquer and apply in one coat? I do some painting (not like that in itself matters here) but would have more control over matching the color if I could be more selective with some artist acrylics. I'm not in a hurry, but also would think it might be a simpler process to premix everything, apply in small "drops," let sit for as long as it needs, and then do any sanding.
     
  4. Jun 16, 2019 #4
    CharlieB

    CharlieB

    Jun 15, 2019
    Id Id personally use Reranch colors with the drop fill method..... Look at frets.com forvdrop filling. Lacquer MUST fully dry...not just be dry to the touch. A thick application like a drop will take perhaps two weeks or more. Level like frank shows...final levelcw/ a block. I use Mothers mag wheel polish for final buff.
     
  5. Jun 17, 2019 #5
    Chris Paget

    Chris Paget

    Sep 1, 2008
    This is pretty encouraging. Very glad to hear about the possibilities of getting the color close to a match using Reranch and then the drop fill method. Will visit frets.com and see what Frank does. And good to know about the wait time for planning. Certainly no need to rush this. Thanks, so much, Charlie!
     
  6. Jun 17, 2019 #6
    Chris Paget

    Chris Paget

    Sep 1, 2008
    What brand of spray lacquer are you referring to with the white blonde and mary kaye color options?
     
  7. Jun 17, 2019 #7
    CharlieB

    CharlieB

    Jun 15, 2019
    Reranch has em.... On their color chart (not old Fender). But ya gotta finagle around to drop fill. I like baby food "apples and apricots" as my go to baby food jar.
     
    Chris Paget likes this.
  8. Jun 17, 2019 #8
    Chris Paget

    Chris Paget

    Sep 1, 2008
    Man, I can't tell you how helpful this has been. I didn't know about Reranch, and frets.com is really helpful and clear to follow. I think I'll be going with just the blonde lacquer to start -- from the pics it looks like a close match. But will of course compare before applying it. Combining that with the nitrocellulose clear coat is a total worthwhile buy given future needs and worth figuring out the color match at this point. But for $34 plus shipping this'll be a good thing to have on hand.
     
  9. Jun 17, 2019 #9
    CharlieB

    CharlieB

    Jun 15, 2019
    If you're going to drop fill clear coat, then only use the undercoat enough to provide the color and not build up the finish. The idea is to get a little hill of lacquer that you can shave, sand and and polish. So, color below to match, and clear above to make level.
     
  10. Jun 17, 2019 #10
    Rallypoint_1

    Rallypoint_1

    Aug 22, 2010
    Pasadena, California
    I used ReRanch and I like their product!! I got the touch up pens and they work great. The blonde didn’t quite match my Squier CV 50’s Blonde. It was darker than my bass. I spoke to Bill, the owner, and he mentioned that blonde varies from guitar to guitar year to year. I would have to mix Olympic white or something similar to get it close. He was super helpful even though I bought a inexpensive product from him. The vintage neck amber was spot on!!
     
  11. Jun 18, 2019 #11
    Axstar

    Axstar Inactive

    Jul 8, 2016
    Scotland.
    It can be done, with a healthy dose of expectation management, using superglue. I had this chip in my Epi Wildkat guitar, thanks to the previous owner:

    [​IMG]

    I firstly sanded the depression itself with 400 grit, using a carved pencil eraser, to remove the cracks and fractures from the edge of the dent.

    I then used a wood touch-up dye to put the colour back into the wood. This would be when you add the colour back to your chip on your bass.

    I then generously over-fill the chip with superglue, to build it above the surface of the factory finish:
    [​IMG]

    Sandy sand sand sand:

    [​IMG]

    Buffy buff buff buff:
    [​IMG]


    It passes the "can't be seen from three feet away" sniff test.
     
  12. Jun 18, 2019 #12
    CharlieB

    CharlieB

    Jun 15, 2019
    I can't smell it... then again, there's bourbon and gingerale in my nose....

    Seriously, nice level out! A chip like that is a mofo to get "perfect". You really have to have an artist's skills to get that really invisible. You look at old time (and very very good) repairmen, and they have colors set aside for Martin and Gibson... and maybe some Fender. After that, its... well its a matter of what can be done, with reasonable time and effort, and reasonable customer expectation, with reasonable charges to those paying (if applicable).

    Kudo's on that finish fix. Passes my sniff test too!