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Repairing wear & tear on a Jazz neck

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Doug Ring, Dec 7, 2005.

  1. Hi folks, hope this hasn't been asked a thousand times; I did a search but nothing useful came up.

    I have a Fender Jazz that's been my main instrument for 20 years and it's showing wear and tear like you might expect. The main problem is the neck. There's a big ding in the centre of the back of it, and on the G-string side around the C-fret just below the edge binding there's a rough bit where the varnish has worn away and it's down to the wood.

    I'm happy to take sander and paintbrush to it myself, but what varnish/lacquer/automotive product do you guys recommend I use to fill and protect?

    Thanks in anticipation,

  2. 4Mal

    4Mal Supporting Member

    Jun 2, 2002
    Columbia River Gorge
    Google 're-ranch' Those are the folks to talk with when it comes to finishing.
  3. basstruck

    basstruck Guest

    Nov 25, 2005
    Check this site:

    Click on "Basic Finishing" and there is a section specially for Fender neck
  4. That's brilliant! Everything I need to know, thanks a lot guys :D
  5. Chasarms

    Chasarms Casual Observer

    May 24, 2001
    Bettendorf, IA USA
    The best filler I have used to fill deeper dings is a clear two-part epoxy mixed with a little bit of matching wood dust. (from sanding or scraping)

    Just go easy on the hardener. It'll set a little slower, but end up with something that is very workable as far as reshaping the profile and it looks pretty good too.

    If it is not that deep, just leave the dust out.
  6. This is also great advice, thanks Charles. Just one question: any time I've used two-part epoxy it's been very stiff at the mixing stage. I can't see how you'd mix the wood dust in evenly when it's kinda hard to stir?
  7. Chasarms

    Chasarms Casual Observer

    May 24, 2001
    Bettendorf, IA USA
    Use the slow setting stuff. It stays gelatinous (yes, I spelled it right :) ) longer. Also a little less hardener will slow the curing process. But the real trick is to mix the dust up with the resin BEFORE you add the hardener.

    It works amazingly well. On tighter gain woods without a lot of figure, it is almost invisible. I used the method to fill a decently large ding in an ebony doublebass tailpiece. You'd never see it without a very close look. I have done it on maple also with good results. I fixed a ride cymbol blow to the head stock of a buddy's strat. It worked well there also.