Replace master volume pot to achieve lower minimum volume?

Why not use the volume pot on your bass?

 

I don't see why the multi-turn pot would not work. My only concern is that there may be a time when you need to make a quick volume change on the amp. I've seen some cool knobs, mostly on high end test equipment, that include a turns counter. There would be the usual 0 to 10 around the knob, but it also would include an inset number that counts 0 to 10 full turns of the pot. The inset is a X 10 display. If you like running somewhere between 1 and 2 full turns, the inset would show 1 (X 10) and set the outside dial to, say 5. Then you would be running at 15 on a scale of 0 to 100. This makes it easy to reset to a known volume when needed.
These types of knobs are not cheap, nor is a ten-turn pot. I'd suggest you look at electronic surplus sites for the knob and even the pot. I often frequent Surplus Sales of Nebraska, because they are right here in town. If you don't find what you need on line at SS of NE, call or email and ask for Bob, the owner. Tell him "Zed" sent you. It won't get you a discount and (and I don't think he'll charge extra). I don't get a cut either. My only connection is that we are both Ham Radio operators, I am a cheapskate, and love rummaging through the surplus parts stores. There are other good surplus places on line as well.

 

Have you tried the active/passive switch? Otherwise an attenuator in the effects loop would help.

 

If you are going to mid the head why not have a tech install an effects loop, or at minimum a preamp out, that way you could feed a lower power amp.
OR get a practice amp
Or say, a 16ohm cabinet (say a single 110 loaded with a Faital, designed for Genz Benz like Avatar cabs is selling) or a 32 ohm 2x10 , with the same speakers in series)

 

Why not just use a log taper pot, which will probably already do what you want?

 

I would have thought that a an audio/log taper pot would what’s in there now Charlie.

 

Yeah! You've got the effects loop, then yeah! That is a x10 better idea than mine.
To build on a great idea... How about a variable attenuator?

 

Hotone Nano Legacy Thunder Bass Mini Amplifier Head
Also has an effects loop so you could insert the preamp from the Orange.

 

I kind of doubt it, given the symptom. Lots of people use linear pots with a following wiper-to-ground resistor to set the pot law, which is often my favored approach for my own builds. In any case, I'd look at that before resorting to an expensive and maybe inconvenient solution like a 10 turn pot.

 

A well qualified tech who understands the circuit could fine tune it to your needs. I would check the pot taper first.

 

What Andy (agedhorse) said. I've never seen the schematic, but if you can scare one up it would take things in the right direction at least. BTW, have you looked at how the pot is mounted yet? Subbing in another one isn't always the most straightforward process, especially if you need to add resistors inline or in parallel.

 

Some amps have the master as an attenuator after the pre-amp, others have the master after the phase inverter. I recall one Orange amp that had a 500K linear dual gang pot in the power amp. So it might not be as simple to modify the circuit as you imagine.

A pot in the effects sent (or preamp out) and the effects return (or power amp in) might be an easy thing to try.

Often a linear taper pot is used but you can try a log taper.

 

what I read: "how can I make my broadsword more usable for filleting small fish? I really don't want to have two cutting implements."

just get a practice amp dude.

 

What you want and/or need already exists, and is standard on many ham radios. The turning control changes the amount of change based upon the speed you spin it. For example, on a scale of 1 - 1000, if you rotate the dial slowly it will move from 1 to 2 to 3, etc. If you rotate it a little faster it will move 10 to 20 to 30, etc. If you just spin it as fast as it can go it will move 100 to 200 to 300, etc. Two problems here, one being the control has to be connected to another part which controls the spread of the movement, and two it is large, heavy, and expensive. It would not work as a foot pedal but as a finger device you have to reach over to it and give it a spin. So you couldn't do it while playing. Not a bad idea though. Any other ham radio operators on TB that might know how to rig this up? Icom IC-7851: Ham & Amateur Radios - Equipment, Parts and Supply | AES On the shown example, see the large dial on the face. That is the dial you want and need.