Dismiss Notice

Psst... Ready to join TalkBass and start posting, make new friends, sell your gear, and more?  Register your free account in 30 seconds.

replacing a power switch/suppy?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by cattletrap, Feb 9, 2005.


  1. I've got a Hartke 5000 that stays on when plugged in, switch stopped working months ago and just wanted anyones experience with this since i can't find any anywhere (google, here, etc..) thank you.
     
  2. Passinwind

    Passinwind I Know Nothing Supporting Member

    I've repaired quite a few amps with that symptom, but I'm not familiar with that model. Replacing a switch can be really simple, or really a PITA. If you have to ask what to do about it, you probably should just take it to a tech, no? If there's surge protection, it may have failed and need replacement.

    Best of luck!
     
  3. actually i have not even taken it out of the rack to look at the difficulty of it. Im an IT tech and have confidence in replacing it my self as long as i do not need to dismantle the entire head to get to it, since its not a computer. the light flickers on and off at times to but not the power, always on when plugged in, which for live gigs and practice has meant plugging into a surge (so not to spike it) powered off, plugging in and turning the surge protector on. SHSesshc what a pain, not really but still annoying nontheless. Thanks for your advice.
     
  4. Passinwind

    Passinwind I Know Nothing Supporting Member

    Is it a rocker switch with a light in it? Those are usually pretty easy to replace, as long as they're not mounted to the circuit board. Both Mouser and Digkey should stock 'em. The last Hartke I worked on was a 7000, and it was somewhat of a bear to take apart and reassemble, mainly because of all the lighted EQ knobs. The sliders seemed pretty breakable, and some of the LEDs were super glued into them, making life even more difficult.

    I repair a lot of "owner serviced" amps, but I'll refrain from judging your capabilities any further. All the standard warnings about life threatening voltages, etc., apply here in spades, of course. Just don't go past your comfort zone, eh? :cool:

    BTW, I have a ton of audio repair experience, and it still took me a while to get my computer chops up when my employer decided that should be part of my job tasking.
     
  5. I think this is a common problem with high-powered amps that use a conventional linear power supply. The large inrush current to the power transformer, and the inductive spark that occurs when power is killed, can fry the contacts on a cheap switch....welding them together, usually.

    The switch should be inexpensive to replace with a better version from a good electronics supply store (translation: measure it and buy it from somebody other than Hartke) but as posted, the hard part may be disassembling the chassis. I have yet to take my 5000 apart....
     
  6. thank you very much, good input. do you like your 5000? I do, but what do you keep your settings at if you don't mind and have time to talk.