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Replacing input jack on a speaker

Jan 22, 2021
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Hi to You all!

I'm in need to replace input jack on Ashdown MAG410 deep cabinet. Input jack has been smashed to the wall (probably by some drunk idiot) and is now inside cab. Plastic nut is broken and threads on jack are a bit stripped, I suspect this isn't first time this happened. Jack is also old and connection is wonky so I decided to replace jack.

Please let me know if this is suitable jack to replace original with (this is what I have on hand):
If not, please recommend suitable jack, preferably from the same web-shop - musikding.de

Is there anything I should be aware while performing this task, pay special attention to?
Or is it straight forward, like unsolder old jack, solder new, screw jack to input plate?
 
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Hi to You all!

I'm in need to replace input jack on Ashdown MAG410 deep cabinet. Input jack has been smashed to the wall (probably by some drunk idiot) and is now inside cab. Plastic nut is broken and threads on jack are a bit stripped, I suspect this isn't first time this happened. Jack is also old and connection is wonky so I decided to replace jack.

Please let me know if this is suitable jack to replace original with (this is what I have on hand):
If not, please recommend suitable jack, preferably from the same web-shop - musikding.de

Is there anything I should be aware while performing this task, pay special attention to?
Or is it straight forward, like unsolder old jack, solder new, screw jack to input plate?
I think you pretty well summed it up correctly.
 
I think I'd look for a different site to be sure you're getting the right part. The picture of the part you linked to is of a more complicated jack -- one with some switching contacts. There are several different variations of switching jacks, but that site doesn't have any descriptors that would enable to you to determine which one it is. I don't know that THAT'S the actual part they supply, but what you're looking for is a Switchcraft L11 or equivalent.

The part in the picture would work; you might find the extra terminals somewhat confusing, but if you can use a multimeter's resistance (Ω) setting to test for continuity, you'll be able to discern which terminals to use. Otherwise, try to find the regular part. Here's a pic from Amazon. Try searching for the Switchcraft part number, L11.

1728474913943.png
 
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I wouldn't buy a no-name product. You don't know how good the plating and other parts are. Switchcraft #11 is an example of a good product. If you need a longer thread to get through the metal plate, look for an 11L.

Another option is to install a second speakon connector. You might find a pre-punched metal dish that fits your cabinet.
 
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I wouldn't buy a no-name product. You don't know how good the plating and other parts are. Switchcraft #11 is an example of a good product. If you need a longer thread to get through the metal plate, look for an 11L.

Another option is to install a second speakon connector. You might find a pre-punched metal dish that fits your cabinet.

Agree that, since the OP is going to the trouble of replacing a jack and has to buy one anyway, best to order one of recognized high quality. Some cheap jacks -- and they likely don't get much cheaper than a Monoprice jack -- use light-gauge metal for the tip connector, with the potential for intermittent contact. That's annoying for guitar jacks but potentially harmful for connecting to amplifier outputs.
 
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and they likely don't get much cheaper than a Monoprice jack -- use light-gauge metal for the tip connector, with the potential for intermittent contact. That's annoying for guitar jacks but potentially harmful for connecting to amplifier outputs.
Monoprice have broken and gotten stuck in many amps with their poorly made connectors.
 
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Ok, a little more info because there is some incorrect comments being made...

The MAG cabinets use a metal jack plate which is punched for an ~11mm OD jack yet the Switchcraft metal bushing jack is ~9mm OD. This will cause issues with the metal collar at the base of the bushing. 11mm is the "standard" for the plastic bushing with the plastic nut. Since it's a metal plate, there is no need for a long bushing, that just makes things worse rather than better.

My suggestion is to replace the jack with the same style of jack, that way it will mount solidly to the existing plate.
 
Hi guys
Thank's everyone for replying. So here is an update. I removed jack plate and found a switching jack inside, something like this:
images.jpg

I have also found that confections are solid, and since enough of you suggested that jack I have on hand wouldn't be appropriate I decided to just leave it as is, as I don't want to put inappropriate part inside. Luckily I found another plastic nut and managed to screw existing jack to plate, it will hold, for now... Afterwards I also found that wonky connection was due to cable that was in use to I threw that into garbage bin...

I should also clarify, this is not my cab (or that wonky cable), it is a shared cab in a place where we have rehearsals. Cab also has speakon connection so I decided to rather buy appropriate jack-to-speakon cable and use this connection, since all other guys here use just jack plug.
In near future I'll bring my own cabs anyway...