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Reranch tint on 51 Precision?

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by tonynoriega, Mar 26, 2013.

  1. Today I'm ordering a Warmoth 51 P bass body, in swamp ash, unfinished. The outcome I want is a vintage look tint in satin. I've never done this before so I'm struggling with fear of the unknown since anything new like this involving hundreds of dollars can be daunting. I've read some on Guitar ReRanch and see that they sell tinted finishes in aerosol cans.

    Have any of you done this, and if so would you kindly post photos and perhaps some notes on the process?

    Thank you!
  2. hdracer


    Feb 15, 2009
    Elk River, MN.
    I am in the process of stripping a neck I painted with ReRanch tinted paint.
    It is fine if you like yellow. It does not look "vintage" at all, just yellow.
    Compared to my Fender Roadworn neck it's a joke. The paint needs more brown in it.
  3. kentiki


    May 14, 2008
    I used the tinted clear on a painted jazz bass. It is a good product, but a little goes a long way. You might want to buy both tinted and non-tinted to acheive the look you want. Use the tinted first and when it looks right, continue with clear. If not you may run the risk of your bass being too orange.
  4. TinIndian


    Jan 25, 2011
    Micco Florida
    Never used the tint brfore but I recently used their Lake Placid Blue on a P bass build that came out great. Check out Stew Mac and see if they have a tinted clear. I'm pretty sure they do.
  5. hdracer


    Feb 15, 2009
    Elk River, MN.
    Theirs is yellow too. Not as bad but it is yellow.

    I think the only way you can get a real vintage look is to blend your own color and spray it with a gun. That's what I am going to do.

    ROOTSnFIFTHS Low-end Lover since '78!

    Oct 25, 2012
    NJ to Sin City
    For anyone using Reranch aerosol cans, does the finish go on smooth?
    I use an airbrush for any serious painting(never shot a guitar) and have always had trouble with can sprayed paint.
    Usually get that orange peel look or other issues ya know.
  7. spufman


    Feb 7, 2005
    Central CT
    I think Birchwood-Casey Gunstock Oil gives a really nice result on a neck after about 6-8 rubbings. Maybe not a true vintage look, but neither is is straight-up clear. Very easy to use without any of the various worries I have when spraying. I've used and liked the Reranch Daphne Blue and Clear, so their products are good if they have what you need.
  8. hdracer


    Feb 15, 2009
    Elk River, MN.
    If you warm the paint first I had no problems with spatter or orange peal with ether RR or StewMac
  9. kentiki


    May 14, 2008
    I got a nice vintage look on a neck using stain followed by tru-oil. Very easy to apply.
  10. kentiki


    May 14, 2008

    This does make a difference.
  11. k31bassman


    Feb 4, 2010
    I have used the tinted spray twice. The first neck I did 2 or 3 coats, then clear lacquer. It came out pretty orange. I may redo that one someday. The second one I put on a very light coat, sanded through in a few choice spots to simulate wear/aging, then clear lacquer. Before the clear I even used a VERY slight bit of dark stain in scratches and dents. It came out very well.
  12. I'm getting intrigued with the idea of oil vs. laquer spray. Is it more forgiving for the novice? Tinting may also be an option but it's another thing I'm not experienced in and therefore presents another chance of botching the job.

    Sure would like to see some photos of bodies in either swamp ash and/or alder that have been oiled and also others that have been sprayed.
  13. HankTX


    Feb 3, 2010
    In answer to your post on oil, yes they are more forgiving. I've used linseed and tung oil on necks before with good results. I usually thin them a bit first to get good penetration into the wood. They can be a bit sticky though until they fully cure.

    As for the Reranch product. I've done many projects using their paint including tints. It's a good product and the instructions on their site are very good. As a beginner, I would folllow them to the "T".

    With lacquer and aerosol cans temperature and humidity are the biggest concerns. You'll have to be patient and shoot the paint in ideal conditions to avoid problems like blushing or orange peel.

    The other thing as a beginner is not to overdo the coats and be patient between additional coats. The finish will build up as you go and you want a good tacky but not wet surface in order to avoid runs.

    As for the tint, as another post indicated, a little goes a long way and the lacquer will age naturally anyway. There's also a school of thought that says lacquer ages from the outside in so I would start clearcoating with regular clear with a few coats of tint to finish it off. That's the process I follow.

    It can be a bit daunting as a beginner but you can do it using reranch as a resource and a little patience.
  14. fretno

    fretno Supporting Member

    May 10, 2009
    Los Angeles
    my last build was simple and gave up a sweet satin finish for a fairly low cost finish.
    It was eggwhite sealer , 3 coats of fresh made shellac sprayed in a preval and 4 coats of Minwax wipeon poly satin . It has a very natural glow with depth , kinda like a Seagull acoustic if you know those .



    I used a Platina shellac which is pretty clear but you can get more orange , amber or darker reds and browns with shellac , it can also be dyed if you need to change it's natural color a little .
  15. pghjeeper


    Mar 11, 2011
    We tinted a telecaster neck for my nephew. We used tinted amber shellac and then like the others I lightly sanded in between coats to make the neck look like its worn I'm certain spots,lightly is the key. I the added a coat of de-waxed shellac and then topcoated with clear satin poly. The neck looks and feels azmazing! For my first time it turned out great but it is intdating.
  16. pudge

    pudge Supporting Member

    Sep 13, 2008
    I would advise against using the reranch tinted clear if you have no expierience using it.To start with do you plan to fill the grain on the body and seal it?
  17. I've done a few warmoth projects. Necks and bodies. Will you be spraying the tint over a color, or right onto a raw body?

    hdracer is right, if applied heavily, it becomes yellow. I tend to enjoy it a little more than the stark white maple that fender tends to offer. Here's some pics.

    Jazz neck. Sanded a wear spot in on the back of the neck and literally grabbed a handful of wet gravel dust from my driveway and rubbed it in until the wood was nice and dirty.


    Here's a P neck I did. The wear spot you see is from being on a stand in a warm room for a few months.

    Same bass, front of headstock.

    My DIY finish next to a 77 P with some "mojo" and behind that is a 97 AMSTD P.

    Classic MM, DIY jazz, 97 AMSTD P, 77 P, DIY P, Road Worn P, FSR Antigua P, Squier P.

    The color never shows in pics, but it's surf green. Used automotive filler primer underneath (lol)

    Daphne blue body I'm waiting to use.
  18. Thanks very much to all of you that have replied, sharing your expertise, experience and photos. It's all been very helpful and I've now decided on going with an alder body (thanks C.J.!) and also since the Reranch vintage tint seems to be more yellow/orange than a convincing vintage aged look, I'm going with a wipe-on poly and possibly with some added tint.

    I've decided to spend an extra 80 bucks on a one-piece body since the grain will be visable so when I call to order it I'm going to ask that they send me some scrap pieces from the actual wood so I can use that for testing some tint and finish. Don't know if they'll oblidge but it would probably be sawdust anyway so maybe they will be generous and do it.

    Once again - thanks!
  19. brad houser

    brad houser

    Jan 4, 2008
    ReRanch tint works. just spray it on a little at a time and be patient.

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