Ric p'ups placement Q:

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by Sloom, Mar 3, 2005.

  1. Sloom


    Mar 3, 2005
    I've got a Schecter Stilletto Elite IV (I feel so snooty ID'ing my bass), and am interested in putting Ric pickups in it- orig's or replacements.

    My question is, since the existing pickups are basically accomodating a PJ-type setup, would the placement of Ric pickups in these positions adversely affect the sound I'm after?

    I'm thinking the bridge p'up will be a little further from the center of the strings/closer to the bridge, where the strings are a bit tighter. Less 'round' sounding, I'm betting.

    Any thoughts floating around here? 'Appreciate any wisdom, thanks!

  2. pil


    Feb 17, 2005
    Pimlico, UK
    not to sure how it will affect your sound...but i will say if your going for rick pups, go for the originals....dont buy basslines or barto..something...to deep, sounds nothing like stock pups
  3. luknfur


    Jan 14, 2004

    to my knowledge a 4001 from 12th fret to the leading edge of the neck pup is 7 3/4" and 12" to bridge (may be to center but that's a ballpark).

    Pups retain the same characteristics moved toward the bridge, they'll just be brighter. The spacing between the pups is generally something I try to stick with if possible, at least for first runs. Regardless, the pups may sound better to you spaced elsewhere than in the original Ric position - possibly even if reversed for that matter.

    Thing you have to watch with SD Rics is the neck pup is not very long and the perimeter strings may be out of range of the meat of the magnetic field - and the further you move down the neck the more an issue that is. I had a Stilleto and it seems the strings were pretty close but it's something to be aware of. I don't remember if those Independent Schec bridges were snugged up or not.

    Another thing is the Ric Bridges often have a wierd baseplate that can be a problem. I know on the SD's it can be removed and re-installed thereafter with no problem - cause I did it. Seems I've heard the same about some Ric bridges. The Bart bridges are not an issue and the necks are a bit longer than the SD's - in fact the Bart neck and Bridge pups are the same dimensions.

    Also, the Bart Rics are not dark at all - most appealing Barts I've had to date in fact - and I've had a bunch. They are however installed in an acoustically bright bass and that would brighten them up considerably. But I'm sure they're nothing like Bart M34C's. In fact I had Bart M34C's in that Stilleto and they were so dark that the only thing that saved them was some cool switching and capacitors - then they were pretty decent.

    Forgot: another issue with originals Rics is not just the string width on the pups but the pups lining up well enough with all the poles. As far as I know the SD and Bart Rics are blade mags so you're good to go as long as the pup's wide enough for the strings. At least I've never had any problems with them in that sense.

    With those Barts, I anticipated they'd be way too bright in that bass but they worked out very well as it turns out - enough to where I have yet to pull them from the bass to try them in somethng darker.
  4. keb


    Mar 30, 2004
    I can confirm that the Rick Barts aren't dark sounding. They're definitely brighter than the J-style 9J Barts I also have lying around (which are wound to have a lot of lows and low-mids).
  5. Sloom


    Mar 3, 2005
    First off, I made a mistake in stating my question: I meant to talk about the distance from the Neck p'up to the middle of the string! That's where the "round-sound" thing is...anyway, I'll go on now and toss this around:

    O.k., I have a tape measure... that's helpful.

    Now you're talking my language! I often end up making things work that are seen as 'left of center'... ;)

    What do you mean by 'snugged up'? Spacing? Pretty close, I think about 5/8" between strings, center-to-center.

    Are you talking about the bridge pickups here (not the actual bridge)? I've removed the spring-mounting and bracket from a Ric bridge pickup- a '76 and a '90; I glued wood shims into the pocket-rout and screwed the p'up back in, with the springs from the mount to hold the p'up in place. That's not an issue- unless you're a collector! In which case, forget what I said. :eyebrow:

    I'm looking for that dark, boomy neck-position tone from this set-up, which I may not get unless I rout a new pocket for the neck p'up. But I may just like what I get anyway. I'm willing to experiment and not get freaked out if it's not glorious... but I'd like a little low-end 'Thoooom' if I can get it. That Chris Squire "Heart of the Sunrise" thing. But dark as a general character is not where I'm particularly at.

    Wonder if that's an issue with the Stiletto. I'll bring my tape measure to my local music store.

    I'll probably try and go for originals, 'cause I am having a serious home-sickness for my Rics! If I ever get another one, I'm keeping 'er this time. I'd trade my Stiletto for the right one (and $, I know!)- and this Schecter is the sweetest player I think I've had yet.

    Thanks for the reply, and opinions, guys. I'll take it to the bench, soon as I get me some p'ups!
  6. luknfur


    Jan 14, 2004
    By snugged up I meant if they were as closely spaced as they could get - if they are, you can't moved them in, if they aren't you can. You will probably have visible holes in the bass if you redrill and relocate the bridge pieces. If you save the fillings from the bass, you can mix them with a little wood glue to fill the holes and have a decent match.

    I was talking about some bridge pickups regarding the baseplate, specifically the Duncans.

    Both the Bart and SD Ric replacement neck pups are interesting in and of themselves - they don't have the dark/boomie character typically produced from a neck pup (I'm a single J guy so that's fine by me). They are comparatively clear, transparent, and thin sounding (and that's in series). Mid mid upper mid character and can be fairly punchy. But anything that's transparent can be made boomie with adjustment. The bridge pups are punchy, loud, clear, balanced across the frequency ranges, can go fat or thin, and easily stand alone. They're also both humbucking with 4 wire w/ground leads for a myriad of switching options.