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Ripped strap lock off my bass

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by playibanez, Apr 8, 2009.


  1. playibanez

    playibanez

    Apr 3, 2006
    U.S.
    I was playing a show last sunday with a pop punk band, so its a lot of movement and running around. And i managed to just rip the screw right out of my bass. There was toothpicks in it prior to this and it still loosened after almost every show.

    What is the best way to fix this?

    I have schaller strap locks. Should i switch over to the DiMarzio strap that screws right onto the bass? Would that make the screw wiggle less?

    But for now i just need to get the screw back into my bass.

    Thanks guys.
     
  2. mrkreuzschlitz

    mrkreuzschlitz

    Jun 30, 2008
    Dacula, GA
    I've thrown my bass around me (heavy jazz bass, by the way) and I've had no problems AT ALL with my Dimarzio Cliplock strap. I used the big screws, and didn't drill the hole out, just go slow so you don't strip the head, and you'll be good.
     
  3. jorri156

    jorri156

    Apr 4, 2009
    i got so sick of mine doing that, even after filler, bigger screws, that i got out the Araldite. hasnt moved since, even if i wanted it to.
     
  4. JTE

    JTE Supporting Member

    Mar 12, 2008
    Central Illinois, USA
    I assume the threads stipped out of the wood. A quick and dirty fix is to stuff toothpicks in the hole, and screw it in again. A better fix is to use yellow carpenters' glue to glue the toothpicks in. Let it set up good before you screw them in again. The problem with both toothpick fixes is that the wood still comes apart eventually.

    A better fix (I learned this from John Carruthers' repair column in Guitar Player Magazine back in the '70s and '80s) is to clean out the hole really well, fill it about one-third full of baking soda, and put a drop of super glue in there. The glue reacts with the baking soda to create a nice solid filler. Repeat until the hole is completely filled. Wait a while, the drill the correct sized pilot hole for the screws on your straplocks, and reinstall them.

    BTW, this is the primary reason I quit using Schaller straplocks- the size of the threads is much smaller than most strap button screws and way smaller than the bite on the threads of the Dunlop straplocks.

    jte
     
  5. i filled the hole with sawdust and carpenters glue. mixed it up like bondo and let it set. then i took a screw with a much bigger threadput it through a nice big diameter washer and screw my strap to my bass. if memory serves me i beleive the thread on the screw did not go all the way to the head. that way it would not tear up my strap. also the screw is a bit longer, so it screwed into fresh alder a bit. still have the original dunlop strap lock on the other side so i can adjust the strap should my style change a bit.
     
  6. Mulebagger

    Mulebagger

    Dec 12, 2007
    poppin in the corn belt
    Endorsing Artist: Zon Guitars, Tsunami Cables, DR Strings, GK
    The toothpicks and yellow glue have solved my strap problems for good. I also use the Dunlop straplocks. They have a heaver shank for the scred and it tends to put more mechanical pressure on the typical strap button screw hole.

    Best of luck. Don't want that bass to drop!!!
     
  7. atheos

    atheos

    Sep 28, 2008
    Tampere, Finland
    Drill the hole all the way through the body and use a bolt and a nut ;)
     
  8. Mulebagger

    Mulebagger

    Dec 12, 2007
    poppin in the corn belt
    Endorsing Artist: Zon Guitars, Tsunami Cables, DR Strings, GK
    sorry, "heaver shank for the screw" damn bass fingers!
     
  9. This is exactly what I did to my Warwick. When I bought my Warwick, the original screw holes were bigger then the straplock screws (dang Germans, just kidding :bag:). So I just filled the hole with wood glue, stuff it with toothpicks, let it dry completely (very important) and then screwed the straplock on. Its held solidly for over 5 years now, but I also don't tend to be very aggressive on stage with my bass.
     
  10. get a good strap too. i had a strap break while doing a billy sheehan stye harmonic neck bend!
     
  11. Caca de Kick

    Caca de Kick Supporting Member

    Nov 18, 2002
    Seattle / Tacoma
    Unless you glue in the filler wood (such as your toothpicks) into the body, you are only using a friction fit just jamming dry toothpicks in the hole and expecting the screw to hold everything. Don't use wood putty...that isn't real wood, and not is it a strong material!
    You have to make the hole as tight and solid as possible. If you're using toothpicks, glue them in. The baking soda and superglue works excellent in making a very tough surface. If the hole is way oversized, the ultimate repair is to glue in a solid dowel and redrill the proper hole size.
     
  12. zenrad

    zenrad Supporting Member

    Feb 4, 2009
    Bergen County, NJ
    The way it's usually done (from a lutherie and woodworker's standpoint) is to drill out the hole and glue in a hardwood dowel that's the same size as the hole. Trim the dowel flush, redrill a properly sized pilot hole and use the correct wood screw to re-attach the strap button.
     
  13. Craigster

    Craigster

    May 17, 2008
    So Cal
    I use dunlops for my basses and haven't had a problem. The screw has a larger diameter so it "bites" deeper into the wood, also it's longer so the deeper set seems to hold better too. The "snap in" style holds very well if you move a lot also.
     
  14. Play-
    I suggest filling the screw hole using one of the above methods. Then reattach the stap directly to the bass with a screw and a washer. No more removing the strap.
    If you look at a straplock mechanism, it tends to put pressure towards the top of the screw instead of the horn of the bass. Over time, the screw will start to loosen especially if you're active on stage. Using a washer as your 'staplock' puts more of the pressure on the bass instead of the screw.
     
  15. Buskman

    Buskman

    Apr 13, 2007
    Jersey Shore, USA
    Duct tape :bassist:
     
  16. that happend to me so I filled the hole in with gorilla glue and sprayed the screw with WD40/PB Blast so if you want you can take out the screw .
     
  17. The big problem with straplocks or most any strap button is that the surface that contacts the guitar is flat, while the guitar's surface is curved. When you hang it on a strap, it puts a tremendous amount of tension on the screw, trying to pry it out of the hole. It's exactly like how a claw hammer pulls a nail, same principal.
    The best solution I have found is to make a shallow, flat-bottomed counterbore in the horn, so that the straplock or button has a flat surface to bear against. Never saw the problem again.
    +1 to the dowel/glue method to repair existing damage.
     
  18. Ricken-bassist

    Ricken-bassist

    Apr 7, 2009
    Instead of wood glue, I've used 10 minute epoxy. Used the toothpicks too. No issues.

    I think the important part is that it's solid. Harder than the surrounding wood, even. However you get it that way.... make sure it completely, totally cured / dried, whatever you call it for all these different adhesives. Then drill your new holes the next size down from your screws. Drip superglue (or locktite) in the holes before you insert the screws.

    They ain't NEVER coming out now!

    Good luck!
     
  19. badstonebass

    badstonebass

    Jun 7, 2006
    ohio
    I use Marine Epoxy on mine. Never will come out....even when you want it too.
     
  20. Toothpicks, and Elmer's wood glue.
     

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