RobPin

That looks like an interesting system for sure.
If you find that you wish to have the hole drilled, Jim Hamm in Victoria has the expertise.
He built a jig to ensure the requested angles and it worked out very well on my sons Bass.
We're just across the water from you, couple hours drive, so not very far.

 

Thanks MJT!
First off, Wolfinstruments.com, in Northern VA has them in stock.
Yes, the device is a bit unorthodox, but it really solves a lot of problems. I don't think I mention it on the website, but it weighs about 10 oz. The plug which rests against the bottom block does look small in the photo, but when you install it you see that it is fine. You only need to be careful that it stays under the bottom block, i.e., don't let it angle more than about 30° to the side. A lot of people bought them at the ISB convention, and so far all feedback has been quite positive. The one issue so far has been that the leather pad is too slippery on some new basses with a high gloss finish. I am working on a soft rubber pad as an option, which anyone who already has a RobPin can easily swap with the existing leather pad. The leather works fine on almost all basses though.

 

Good to hear!

 

I've been playing on one of these since the day I got home from ISB and my experience largely mirrors yours. Great device, very little issue with twisting in the socket--at least, not while playing. Throughout a rehearsal it might happen but only when, as you mentioned, when leaned in such a way that would never occur while playing, and even then it's super easy to get it right back to how I like it.

As a pretty tall person who uses the longer of the pins available to go from the black bar to the floor, I do experience some slight bounce/shake with the device on occasion with large jumps, or with fast vibrato in lower positions. However, I've actually noticed that that's an indication of moments where my technique using an angled endpin is a little rough around the edges, due to having too much or too little weight of the instrument on the left hand, thus causing me either to have grip tighter to pull the strings down (too little of the weight of the bass resting in the left hand) or causing every movement of the hand to translate into bass movement and bounce (too much weight). Obviously, it's a journey to get used to the angled pin setup, and I certainly don't think it's fair to equate my current inadequacies with flaws in design when I've found great success as often as I have small challenges--I've never been able to make a straight pin work well for me while standing, and prior to ISB I was a seated player 100% of the time. I hope that the fact that I now stand probably 90+% of the time with this pin speaks for itself regarding issues like bounce--if it wasn't an easily conquerable issue, that wouldn't be the case.

Rob also is a class act and has been very helpful in working to rectify the other very minor issues I've had, such as the slippage of the leather pad that he mentioned. The design seems to be overall very solid after about a month of playing on it, and I have no doubt Rob will continue to improve it and find solutions for any other glitches that pop up, as well as just being an excellent person to do business with.

If you're interested in an angled endpin, there's really no reason not to use this as your introduction or even your go-to endpin set up in the long term. One of the guys at the Wolf booth (where I bought mine) at ISB told me he'd recently gone on a tour with a RobPin, the 16mm adapter for the endpin socket (for those of us whose basses come with wider endpins like mine) as well as the default 10mm, and rented a bass in every town--with the adapter he was able to use the RobPin on every bass he rented, ranging from Prescotts to Kays, without any problems. Even if you're a die-hard for the drilled pin, it'd be nearly impossible to find a bass that you like, that is drilled to the angle of your liking, with access to a pin the length you like, everywhere you go. And considering it's about the same price or less than what most people charge (at least that I've seen) to drill the hole, I think it's a pretty killer deal, too.

 

I saw one at the ISB and they are beautifully made! I didn't get to try one but it looks like a superb design.

 

Do you know what Tom charges for it?

 

He charged me 200 at the convention, plus 10 for the 16mm adapter. I believe he mentioned that would be a temporary price, in an effort to get them into circulation at the convention and that the price would bump up to 250 post-ISB, but I don't have any idea if that has been the case since then or not.

 

Update.

On the leather pad: I was piggishly insistent on leather all along, but have now decided to switch over to "SBR" rubber, which simply grips better, and since it is inset into the plug it can't slide off. A bit more work, but it looks better too.

On bouncing: I'm only 5'8, so when I chose the rod material I didn't think about this too much. When Tom Wolf asked for rods up to 32cm, I realized that this could be an issue. My recommendation (already in the instructions) for very tall players is to arrange things so that the bracket is set away from the socket a few inches, so that the rod extending to the floor is shorter. This seems to solve the problem. If you are extremely tall, I can send solid SS rod instead of tube. It will be a lot heavier, though, and will increase the shipping charge.

Also... I don't mention this in the literature, but I have gotten feedback from some players who like the angle, but don't want as much rear offset as the Rabbath disciples use. Since there are slots all along the bracket, there is nothing forcing you to use the first slot for the socket pin. I really need to include a drawing to help explain this, but the point is that the rear offset can be far from the socket, like with the Labourie, or closer to the socket, more like with a simple bent pin. It is highly adjustable!


Price: Still not decided, but it should stay where it is for awhile longer. How is that for vague?

Thanks!

 

Rob,

I'm interested in your pin, but: I sit on a low stool (24") and used to keep the (straight) endpin out about 4" or so to get the bass at an angle for bowing. Since surgery I do everything I can to keep weight off the shoulder, so I now keep the bass more upright, with the out only about a 1/2" (almost like playing a gamba). Efficient and mostly pain-free, but I don't get the sound of the bass (bow arm weight) I used to. The endpin is a 5/8" Cameleopard. Any ideas? Thanks
Louis

 

I have one that I will be selling if someone is looking. €130 shipped in the EU

 

Rob,

Is Nick de Groot using one of your pins? We sit very similarly (which, unfortunately, is the only thing my play has in common with his!!)

 

Louis,
Unfortunately there is a height minimum with this design. Normally 5", but can be reduced to four. Have you considered a simple wood block with a "V" channel cut into it? You could put leather or felt on the V surfaces and rubber on the bottom. You could set the bottom back edge into the V slot and do away with the pin altogether.

 

Rob

Thanks for this. Funny that you should suggest this the because I play with a cork yoga block under my left foot and for some inspired reason I said, "what if" and kicked it under the bass to see. Yes, I think this might work. Thanks for taking the time.
Louis

 

I'll see if I can get the GF to take some photos. She tends to avoid the studio at all costs!

 

Actually, a big cork block would be way cool! Anyone with a good table saw could cut a 90° "V" notch into it.

 

I'll give it a shot in the next week or two and post photos. Thanks