Roughing up finish to use as base coat???

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Mark Gastambide, Jun 17, 2019.

  1. Mark Gastambide

    Mark Gastambide

    Jul 22, 2018
    Michigan
    I am about to dig into a refinish project. The bass is currently a natural finish, which I am attempting to make into a wine - ish (reddish brown) stain. I had originally planned to just remove the clear lacquer finish, stain the wood, then re - lacquer the bass. However, I have had a few people recommend attempting to utilize the original finish as a base coat, then spray the StewMac tinted cherry and red mahogany aerosol lacquers in alternating coats until the desired color is achieved, then clearcoat it. My question is, what is the best for roughing up the original lacquer? Sandpaper or Scotch pads? And if sandpaper, which grit would work best for this application? I have had a suggestion of 300 - 600. Wet or dry? The finish IS in good condition, except for a small spot on the upper horn where it appears some wood putty or something was used to fill a small hole or ding on the front of the bass body. I am hoping that will become a non - issue when I get the first coat of tinted lacquer on it. Any advice would be appreciated, so thanks in advance!
     
    Last edited: Jun 17, 2019
  2. dwizum

    dwizum

    Dec 21, 2018
    I think the suggestions are right, trying to get to bare wood and then getting a stain come out well is going to be a lot of work and will probably won't end up with the result you want anyways.

    Before you break the current finish, I would recommend thoroughly cleaning it. If there are any oils or waxes on the surface, those will cause big problems. Sanding will just mash them into the finish, it won't inherently remove them. I would probably start by scrubbing it with a microfiber cloth and a mild degreaser, then a clean one in a little water. From this point on, wear gloves. I'd probably use 400 grit sandpaper, wet, because I know I have it on hand. The grit won't matter much, you really just need to scuff the surface. Keeping your scuff job even will be important, ideally you want to avoid breaking through to the wood in some spots but not in others - so be careful around edges and corners, it'll be easy to go right through. Use light sanding pressure and a flexible sanding pad.

    Then clean the sanding slurry off, let it dry well, and proceed with your finish.
     
    pjbassist likes this.
  3. Gilmourisgod

    Gilmourisgod

    Jun 23, 2014
    Cape Cod MA
    ^^^^^^ What he said, but I'd suggest Naptha instead of water for de-greasing, no risk of it swelling the wood at screw holes.
     
    Axstar likes this.
  4. Mark Gastambide

    Mark Gastambide

    Jul 22, 2018
    Michigan
    Thanks for the suggestion. Hadn't thought about cleaning/degreasing the finish. Now I just have to figure out a good, portable hanger that will hold the entire bass securely (it's a neck through) for spraying, but then allow me to move it in and out. I will, unfortunately, have to do the actual spraying outdoors, then move it inside to dry between coats.
     
  5. Mark Gastambide

    Mark Gastambide

    Jul 22, 2018
    Michigan
    Thanks for the suggestions. It hadn't occurred to me to de-grease it first. Appreciate the advice.
     
    Gilmourisgod likes this.
  6. Gilmourisgod

    Gilmourisgod

    Jun 23, 2014
    Cape Cod MA
    The gray Scotchbrite pads work pretty well for de-glossing a finish without much chance of cutting through. You can vary how aggressively they cut based on hand pressure. You need some "tooth" for the new finish to stick to, but if you cut through it will look blotchy (personal experience!).
     
  7. Biffa

    Biffa Inactive

    Apr 16, 2019
    County Durham, UK
    Silicone and wax remover


    Grey Scotch pad


    Bosh
     
  8. 320 grit
     
  9. Mark Gastambide

    Mark Gastambide

    Jul 22, 2018
    Michigan
    I bought some 320 and 600, so I should be good. Finding Naphtha is proving more difficult in my small town. Only found 1 old rusty can on the shelf of local hardware store, and it was quite pricey. (I kid you not, the entire top of the can was completely rusted brown.) May have to go into Lansing tomorrow.
     
  10. hbarcat

    hbarcat Supporting Member

    Aug 24, 2006
    Rochelle, Illinois

    Exactly this advice. Clean the surface thoroughly. Scuff with 400# wet paper. Be very careful on edges and corners. Clean sanding residue.

    Apply your tinted clear in layers until you achieve the desired amount of color.
     
  11. Mark Gastambide

    Mark Gastambide

    Jul 22, 2018
    Michigan
    Yes, Thank you. I am wondering if I am going to get a color to my liking... By combining the red mahogany and cherry, I doubt I will get a "wine" color. Not without some blue added into the mix. Unfortunately, I cannot fine a "wine" colored lacquer aerosol. In fact, the ones from StewMac are the ONLY tinted aerosol lacquers I have found.
     
  12. Mark Gastambide

    Mark Gastambide

    Jul 22, 2018
    Michigan
    I saw the Gibson Heritage/Cherry red. Sounds similar to the StewMac cherry, if a bit cheaper. Like I said, I'm afraid I won't get a very dark finish, since the wood is ash. Was hoping to darken it by alternating the cherry with coats of red mahogany. If I can't get anything remotely close, I may give up and end up painting it a wine/burgundy color. Any idea of a good source of aerosol paints in a wide variety of colors?
     
  13. Beej

    Beej

    Feb 10, 2007
    Vancouver Island
  14. Mark Gastambide

    Mark Gastambide

    Jul 22, 2018
    Michigan
    Thank you, Beej!
     
    Beej likes this.
  15. Mark Gastambide

    Mark Gastambide

    Jul 22, 2018
    Michigan
    Yeah, that SG (EB) bass is beautiful (actually one of the basses on my bucket list), and I would be thrilled to get a color similar to his finished product, maybe a shade darker. I am hoping these spray lacquers will get me in the ballpark. I realize he went down to bare wood and applied actual stain to get his effect, and I will likely get something slightly different - since I will NOT be starting with bare wood, but rather spraying tinted, translucent lacquers over the roughed - up, existing finish. I guess I'll find out once I get into it! Thanks again.
     
  16. Mark Gastambide

    Mark Gastambide

    Jul 22, 2018
    Michigan
    So, I got the Heritage Cherry from Reranch, sprayed about 6 to 8 coats to get a nice deep red, then sprayed one coat of clearcoat - only to have it blush to a milky white! I now realize that the humidty in Michigan summer is WAY too high for spraying clearcoats. So far I have brushed some lacquer thinner on the back of the neck, and it has (of course) re-melted the lacquer to a wet gloss. I am just waiting to see how it looks when dry, before attempting to do the body. I heard this method was basically the same as buying "Blush Remover" in a spray can. I also read that I may be able to get away with just spraying a fresh clearcoat over it in low humidity, and it will likely melt the previous coat back to clear. But I thought I'd give the thinner a chance first. Unfortunately it has seemed to take a slight bit of the color away in a spot or two. I am hoping it won't be as bad if I use a very small amount of the thinner on the body. Ugh! No one said this would be easy!!! (By the way, the color I got was almost exactly the same as the Gibson SG basses in Heritage Cherry, or my Spector Euro in Black Cherry. I was spraying it on ash, FYI.)
     
    Matt Liebenau likes this.