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Routing the neck pocket

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by teacherguy, Oct 20, 2004.


  1. teacherguy

    teacherguy

    Feb 21, 2004
    Cincinnati, OH
    Hey everyone!
    The next step on my project is routing the neck pocket but before I mess something up, I have a few questions.
    I did a search on this topic in this forum, but didn't reaaly find my answer.
    I am using an existing neck so I made a 1:1 routing template using Martin Koch's recommendation. I ran MDF slats running along the neck, taped them to the body w/ dbl sided tape and now I'm ready to remove most of the wood in the pocket with a Forstner bit. The pocket needs to be 19mm deep.

    My questions are:
    1) How deep do I set the Forstner bit when I drill out the pocket? Do I set it to 19mm at the TIP of the bit? That would leave a couple of mm left on the bottom to be routed out, right?

    2) When I use the router with a flush trimming bit, do I set THAT bit to 19mm and then remove the rest of the wood along the bottom of the pocket and just sweep the router back and forth inside the pocket?

    I haven't yey had time to even practice this on scrap so I'm tring to get a better idea beforehand.

    I hope I'm asking the question clearly.

    Thanks,

    Jon
     
  2. I like to make the tip of the forstner stop at my final depth and then, when I'm routing, I'll remove that last 1/8" with all the "dimples" and make the floor of the pocket smooth.

    BTW, how are you contending with the heel contour?
     
  3. teacherguy

    teacherguy

    Feb 21, 2004
    Cincinnati, OH
    Thanks for the tip, Hambone!
    Since I am using the neck and p.u. off of my Cort Curbow bass, I don't have a heel contour at all. Just like several single p.u. Bee basses, the cavity for the p.u. and the neck pocket are connected. The p.u. fits right at the end of the neck.
    I'll route the pocket first then route out the cavity afterwards.

    Jon
     
  4. tjclem

    tjclem Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jun 6, 2004
    Central Florida
    Owner and builder Clementbass
    "the cavity for the p.u. and the neck pocket are connected. The p.u. fits right at the end of the neck. "

    Wow never seen that. Interesting...........t
     
  5. pilotjones

    pilotjones Supporting Member

    Nov 8, 2001
    US-NY-NYC
    If you want to see how it looks, look at JPs and Dingwall Afterburners.
     
  6. Gotcha! ;)

    That's cheating you know. :D
     
  7. teacherguy

    teacherguy

    Feb 21, 2004
    Cincinnati, OH
    CHEATING!? :bag:

    I'm just "using my resources"!

    This IS how the Curbow neck pocket is designed. I'm copying the dimensions straight from that bass! The neck sits way into the body.

    It should look something like this:
    http://www.beebasses.com/html/current_build_times.html

    Jon
     
  8. teacherguy

    teacherguy

    Feb 21, 2004
    Cincinnati, OH
    AARGH! :bawl:
    Rookie mistake!!
    I practiced routing the pocket a couple of times on a piece of scrap and everything went fine!
    When I actually tried it on my bass body, the router bit started slipping and I ended up making the pocket's surface uneven and deeper on the bottom than I needed it to be by about 5 mm.
    I neglected to check the bit after using it previously. I even thought to myself, "I might want to double check the tightnes of the bit before I get started".

    Easy enough fix. I bought a thin plank of bloodwood to build up the depth of the pocket to where it should be.

    Lesson learned...but that what this whole process is all about, right?

    Jon
     
  9. tjclem

    tjclem Supporting Member Commercial User

    Jun 6, 2004
    Central Florida
    Owner and builder Clementbass