1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
     
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

Saman wood stain or Dupli-Color ? (tl;dr)

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by BillyRay, Apr 28, 2009.


  1. BillyRay

    BillyRay Supporting Member

    Jan 20, 2008
    Quebec
    Yesterday evening, I gave myself a reason to refinish my SX. I was (trying) to wire a kill switch on it when I dropped the iron and solder on the body. It left a big ugly mark on the finish :bawl: The wood is untouched though and I was planning to refinish anyway... I just needed the push to do it.

    I sanded the imperfection and noticed that the finish is not nearly as thick as what I have seen fom other companies, namely Fender. I was able to reach the poly sealer while hand sanding in a few seconds with 120 grit ! Not that it won't take forever for the cutouts but I'm not in any hurry...

    Right now I'm weighting my options. My preference would've been ReRanch, but I'm in Canada, so that is out. That leaves two options since I don't have any sprayign equipment:

    a) Staining
    b) Solid colour

    I've heard people say good things about water-based stains on guitars and after looking at the grain beneath that okay burst job, I'm impressed with Rondo. The alder is something to behold for a 100$ bass. I haven't finished, but the top seems like it's in good shape, altough it is numerous pieces. I remember my grandfather using Saman water-based stain with success https://ssl.sogetel.net/aquashine/boutique_en/boutique.asp?Cat=2&#Categorie. They have a nice palette and their Whitewash would do a (very) poor man's, but cool nonetheless, Mary Kay White. My schedule would be to whisk the wood, sand very smooth, stain, apply Tru-Oil, apply wax and buff.

    Not a lot of protection, but it'd do: I also don't want a thick, wet, armoured look. This is not my main bass and will not become so, since it is now fretless ;) so any concerns about holding up are not a priority. Ease of application is though.

    The other option is Dupli-Color or Krylon, basically automotive touch-up paints. I went to Crappy Tire and they had a plethora of spray paints and some Ford colours seemed appealing. But this route has some problems, namely the need for a sand and sealer, wich I cannot find anywhere and compatibility issues between what I'll be able to cobble up togheter (sealer, paint, top coat).

    Dupli-Color had sandable primer, but since this is intended for metal use, I'm wary about it's performance on wood. You can see it here: http://www.duplicolor.com/products/premium.html.

    I have heard about dewaxed shellac, but was not able to secure any.

    Please guide me TB.
     
  2. Here is my current project...old no name bass to something i can have fun with. Changed the neck, pick-ups, pots, input and obvious paint. Obvious still a work in progress. Paint that was used was strickly Dupli-color with much time and patient....



    ....pick shows before and current stage. (better pics to come)
     
  3. BillyRay

    BillyRay Supporting Member

    Jan 20, 2008
    Quebec
    What did you use to seal the body and act as a primer ?
     
  4. You know i used an automotive sandable primer which worked well bonding to the wooden body and i have yet to seal the paint in. The paint i used was obviously a Duplicolor and it is a Arcylic Laquer which requires again Arcylic Laquer Clear Coating. You can get that through Duplicolor as well (Part No. T125). It too is an automotive finish and should do the trick. For me this was completely a learning experience that i am having fun doing. It won't be a high end looking bass but it will have my stamp of originality on it. Good luck!
     
  5. Duplicolor has good products but not primarilaly intended for wood. I have used their primer but it is thin and takes quite a few coats to cover the woodgrain enough to achieve a flat, high gloss finish. I have used "Kilz" which works quicker because it is thicker. It dries quickly, sands easily and seals out any previous problem areas. It is difficult to have an automotive finish on wood because you have to fill and sand the grain, therefore, you usually end up with a fairly thick finish.
     
  6. BillyRay

    BillyRay Supporting Member

    Jan 20, 2008
    Quebec
    ^^^ That's what I tought. I never saw Kilz anywhere though.
     
  7. BillyRay

    BillyRay Supporting Member

    Jan 20, 2008
    Quebec
    Update: Poly sand sealer is a $%/"?. I'll just leave it as it and shoot automotive primer on top of it. Some of it is gone, but I'll try to lay it on thicker in those areas to correct any pits or valleys. so much for staining, but that's another project !

    Prepping the body tomorrow, pondering my color choices today :bassist:
     

Share This Page