1. Please take 30 seconds to register your free account to remove most ads, post topics, make friends, earn reward points at our store, and more!  
    TalkBass.com has been uniting the low end since 1998.  Join us! :)

Sanding fretless board - can I use a radiused sanding block and micro mesh pads?

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by fourstringbliss, Nov 28, 2012.

  1. fourstringbliss

    fourstringbliss Supporting Member

    Oct 5, 2003
    Puyallup, WA
    I'm going to be defretting a bass. I'd like to do this as economically as possible. I know that I could buy an already fretless neck but I've got a nice neck right now. I'm going to be buying a radiused sanding block and I have a full set of Micro Mesh pads. Could I realistically use a 4" sanding block and the Micro Mesh pads to sand the fingerboard level? The frets are coming out pretty easily.
  2. pflash4001


    Dec 2, 2011
  3. fourstringbliss

    fourstringbliss Supporting Member

    Oct 5, 2003
    Puyallup, WA
  4. Meatrus


    Apr 5, 2009
    You will need more than micro mesh if its at all uneven. You'll probably need to start with 120, depending on how uneven it is, then work through the grades. Micro Mesh is for polishing (so use it after) and does not remove much material at all. I would advise against the 4" block too, thats for spot leveling, the 8" one would be fine.
  5. fourstringbliss

    fourstringbliss Supporting Member

    Oct 5, 2003
    Puyallup, WA
    Sounds good - thanks!
  6. JLS


    Sep 12, 2008
    Emeryville, Ca
    I setup & repair guitars & basses

    I would do this with a 24" level, starting w/coarse stick-on sandpaper. This is a perfect time to get the neck into a configuration where you can just snug the trussrod, when the neck's at the relief that you want, as well as adding some fallaway after F12-F15. You can also add some stiffness to the neck by using oversize shim stock for the fretlines: http://www.stewmac.com/tsarchive/ts0139.html

    I'm considering a black epoxy fretless conversion, where I would put the neck into a backbow as Erlewine does, squeegee the epoxy into the fret slots, and sand the fingerboard afterwards.
  7. Pilgrim

    Pilgrim Supporting Member

    I seldom differ with JLS, but I don't think he needs anything other than a 1x2 chunk of wood as a sanding block, fine sandpaper and a light touch.

    I don't think it's necessary to actually re-shape the fretboard if you have a light touch. I did a refret on rosewood neck and never even thought about a radius sanding block...I just didn't change the radius.