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Scale lengths & truss rods

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Ozzel, Apr 7, 2004.

  1. I am planning on constructing my first 5-string neck. I'd like the bass to be 35" scale. Are there truss rods that are made specifically for this length, or are there standard truss rods that will fit any scale?

  2. If you look on Stewart McDonalds' website (www.stewmac.com) They sell 24" truss rods. www.lmii.com has 22 3/8" truss rods for bass as well. Either of these should work for a 35" scale. I'm just starting a 34" scale 5 string fretless and I'm using the one from lmii. I'll let you know how that goes.
  3. My understanding is thats its not so much your scale that matters but how long your neck is. For example on my neck-thru plans its about 26" depending what side of the neck you measure from (its a wide neck so I'm wanting two rods), so I'm hoping a rod around the 24" mark will do but I'm not real sure, and is it better way to mount it adjustable at the head or at the body?

    Josh D
  4. I was wondering the same thing actually... Since I got the 22 3/8 truss rod, it's not gonna make it to the other end of the fingerboard, so is it better to have the few inches of "non-trussed neck" at the head or tail of the fingerboard? (it's neck through if that makes any difference).
  5. My neck will be 35" scale, 24 frets, which will be 26.25" from nut to 24th fret. The body already has a channel routed at the heel of the neck pocket for the adjustment screw. So if I get a 24" long truss rod, that'll leave over 2" of unsupported neck at the headstock end. Is that a bad thing, or is it normal?

    Maybe someone with a bit more experience can help us out... :help:
  6. Cliff Bordwell

    Cliff Bordwell Commercial User

    Jan 6, 2004
    USA , Orlando , Florida
    Owner of CB BASSES
    L.M.I. will make custom length truss rods.
  7. Bump.

    Can anyone put an answer our question? Do you need to have a rod that matches the length you need? Because I can [theoretically] make a simple rod to any length I so desire a with metal rod but I don't want to do this because I don't understand truss rods enough as is...

    Josh D
  8. Ok, maybe I can help a little more now... I actually just got my truss rod from LMII 2 days ago and i've been so intrigued by it. It's really helped me understand how those guys work to just play with it for like 2 minutes. Anywho, as you turn the nut, it threads at both ends the same way, and as a result one rod gets shorter than the other, causing the longer one to bow out. Now take that and put it inside a neck, and it adjusts the releif... fascinating. But anyway, this leads me to beleive that it's okay to have the rod a wee bit shorter than the neck. Also, the adjustment end basically becomes and astetic choice(but i'm going with adjust at the head since it'll be easier). Well that's my 3 cents.
  9. FBB Custom

    FBB Custom TalkBass Pro Commercial User

    Jan 26, 2002
    Owner: FBB Bass Works
    It is not critical that your rod match the length of the fingerboard. Where you put the access is in the end a bit more than just an aesthetic choice. They impact how the neck will react to adjustments in the rod, how you will conceal the access channel (which can impact playability), and have structural implications in some cases. None the less, either can be used to make perfectly good basses, and in fact I make basses of both kinds.
  10. I thought I'd heard something similar in a discussion but I couldn't exactly remember where and couldn't find it with a search.

    I think I'm gonna have it adjustable at the headstock, because there's still some fingerboard after where the top cutout meets the neck, so now I just have like 2" of unsupported neck and 3-4" of semi-supported rather than the sum of those as completely unsupported.

    Now to get/find the rod.

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