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Schecter Stilleto Elite 5 pots & capacitor.

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by Don Howell, Jan 3, 2018.


  1. Brand/supplier for pots?

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  2. Brand/supplier for capacitors?

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  1. For my 2001 & 2003 made in S. Korea I'm replacing both original EMG HZ 40's pups & preamp with Seymour Duncan Blackouts ASB-BO-5a & Seymour Duncan preamp STC-2S-BO. The preamp includes the bass & treble pots. I'm looking for recommendations on replacing the remaining balance & volume pots & capacitor. All Seymour Duncan would tell me is to use 250k vol. & bal. pots & .022u capacitor.

    What brand(s) will fit and go well with my new pups & preamps? I see there are different volt ratings for capacitors. Thanks!
     
  2. If I were going to the trouble of re-wiring an instrument, there's two things I would do:

    get rid of the balance/blend & use two volume pots

    use 500K Ohm pots, linear taper for volume, audio taper for treble cut (tone), if there is one

    add: DOH!, this is ALL wrong.
    25K Ohm pots for active pickups, but I stand by two volumes vs. a blend
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2018
  3. For the capacitor, you can use anything that is nonpolarized. It makes absolutely no difference whatsoever which brand or type or voltage rating or whatever else, just as long as its of a good tolerance. I would suggest a low voltage film capacitor, because they are inexpensive, tightly spec'd, and small.

    Pots are a different story. There are a number of different things to choose from, depending on your preference. Did you want full sized pots, or mini pots? Linear, or audio? A/C or M/N blend?

    If it were my bass, I would choose a 500k linear volume, 500k audio tone, ungrounded M/N taper 250k blend, and a 0.047uF capacitor.
     
    Wfrance3 likes this.
  4. keyofnight

    keyofnight

    Jun 3, 2011
    Seattle, WA
    Yeah. We definitely need to know your preferences to really know what to suggest. The thing to understand is that a volume potentiometer will give you different sounds depending on the value. 1M will sound the "brightest," 500K will still sound pretty "bright," and 250K will be a little "dark." This happens because some treble frequencies can leak out to ground through your volume pot, so they never make it to your speakers. 1M are are resistive enough to keep most of the treble .

    You want to pick what's right for your pickups and what's right for the sounds you want. 500K is the recommended value for humbuckers, since they are (perhaps) a little "darker" sounding than other pickups (like single coils). So, 500K linear taper should be fine. CTS and Alpha brand pots are fine. I've used both with few problems.

    Also, I'm in the minority here: but I don't like blend controls, and I don't like having two volume controls. Every extra volume control is a path to ground, and that's just another way for your treble frequencies to leak out. Blends and volumes are also a little fiddly, and I don't know if the payoff is worth it. I prefer pickup switches. I've used these rotary switches from Stewart MacDonald successfully.

    Also, I'm confused. Why would you need a tone control if you're using an EQ? Why are you even thinking about capacitors?
     
  5. Some great opinions & info guys. As I'm picking up the pups at GC today, and preamps are in the mail, more input would be appreciated. Here are my goals and answers to your input.

    These two Schecters were manufactured with a preamp, and 4 pots: treble, bass, volume, and blend. I want to stay with the same 4 pot setup which has worked well for me. I like the blend which I keep in the middle as I like using both pups on full. I am replacing due to the originals are old, showing signs of corrosion, static when the knobs are turned, and I've had to re-solder loose and/or disconnected wires 3 times the last 12 months.

    So my goal is dependability and hotter pups. If 250k is a little darker than 500k, that is the tone I want. I'm not treble crazy, and I don't play slap, never will. Plus I use the Ampeg SCR-DI which provides all the tone adjustment I need.

    I opened up the electronics last night & I don't see a capacitor anywhere. So I don't know why Seymour Duncan threw in specs for one when I asked about the volume & blend replacement pots, which they recommended 250k for perhaps to stay true to the original tone. (The bass & treble pots are 500k.) I did notice these two pots (volume & blend) are very much on the short size, most likely to allow room for the preamp.

    So, any more input would be apreciated especially why a cap spec was even provided. And thank you for taking the time to help out a fellow bass player.
     
  6. They thought that your bass had a tone control. It does no harm for them to make common recommendations like that. Don't overthink it.
     
  7. Thanks guys. Your information helped me figure this out. I picked up the Blackouts at GC and they come with two volume pots & one master tone pot. I know the preamp comes with two pots, one for treble & one for bass.

    So with your help I decided to go with the two new volume pots, remove the master tone, and install the bass and treble preamp pots. That way I'm able to replace all 4 pots. I'm sure I can adjust to not having a balance pot especially since one of you prefer two separate volumed.

    Thanks to your input, I'm not going to worry about a cap, no mention of one in the instructions & diagram.

    FYI: These early 2000's S. Korean Stilleto Elite 5's are awesome basses that show up only a few times a year at GC for around $350.00. Neck through, Grover tuners, etc. Frets, nut, bridge, & neck still like new after all these years. A great low income musicians bass.

    I'll update ya's on my results when completed.

    Thanks!
     
    Killed_by_Death likes this.
  8.  
  9. SO FRUSTRATED! Seymour Duncan, forums, web, searched all for wiring of the Blackouts with the 2-tone preamp and output jack. Nothing out there. SD provides drawing for blacklines with a tone pot. The STC-2S-BO preamp has its own wiring diagram, and both of those have a separate output jack drawing. So I soldered what makes sense looking at all the drawings.

    The result...(Remember I have two volume pots) With both volumes down all the way, a signal still goes to my amp, although weaker. With the neck volume up & bridge volume down I get the strongest signal. With both volumes up I get a weaker signal than the previous setting.

    There's more...I use the Ampeg's SCR-DI for gigs. Last Saturdays gig my Ampeg BA210 V2 (for stage monitor) distorted big time and was overloading the PA board. Had to move my guitar input to the "thru" side of the DI, & the distortion went away.

    Deymour
    Still working on this! Works but:

    Both volumes off, still sends signal to amp, although weaker, like passive
    Treble pup off, bass pup on, strongest signal
    Both pups on, stronger that both off, but weaker than bass only on
    Had to play gigs last weekend this way but when I got there got huge distortion out of my Ampeg BA310 V2 (used for stage monitor) while using the Ampeg SCR-DI for the PA. The PA did not like the signal either.

    Ended up using the "Thru" side of the SCR-DI which solved the amp issue.

    Went over wiring with Seymour Duncan:

    Pups to terminal 2 of each volume pot with ground to the back, connected the terminals. Red to battery.

    Preamp: White to terminal 1 of volume pot, connected to terminal 1 of other volume pot.
    Red to battery, green to output jack "tip" & black to output jack "sleeve".
    Bridge ground to back of volume pot.

    Should work but doesn't. It's not the pups or pots as I did the exact same on my other bass with exact same results.

    Emailed Seymour Duncan photos of my connections cause my wiring sounded correct over the phone.

    Totally frustrated! No drawings anywhere showing all connections for the2 blackouts, preamp, two volume pots, and output jack, together on one page. They have separate drawings for the pups & preamp, but with a tone control which is obviously not needed. Yet SD recommends the preamp for the blackouts.

    Also, the pots supplied with the pups do not supply matching knobs for the ones supplied with the preamp AND the stems are a different diameter. So, buy 4 new knobs right? No, because the stem diameter is different. Not happy!
     
  10. Last edited: Jan 18, 2018
  11. Thanks, but I did find that drawing. That's exactly how I wired everything. Yet there is still output with both volume pots turned all the way down. The only difference is I don't have the concentric preamp pot, I bought the preamp with a separate bass & treble pot. (cause bass has 4 holes.)

    Got to be something different with the two pot preamp.

    Gonna call SD again. Last resort, pay someone to look at, which is not in my budget.
     
  12. Is it possible you got the pickups backwards & the bridge pickup is in the neck position?
    If they are different lengths, the shorter one will be the neck pickup.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2018
  13.  
  14. Doubt it. Plus the terminals are connected from one volume pot to the other for the preamp white, as well as the ground.
     
  15. If you have output with both volumes rolled back, one of them (or both) isn't grounded properly on the 1st terminal.

    Are the pots grounded?

    It's easy to check, measure Ohms between the pot bodies & the sleeve of the output jack, there should be almost zero.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2018
  16. Pickups are identical.
     
  17. I would try swapping them, because a bridge pickup in a neck position would do just what you're experiencing.
    but make sure those pots & terminal 1 are grounded first

    pots-f5.
     
  18. I hope you hit on something here. I have nothing grounded to the 3rd terminals of the volume pots. I have the grounds soldered to the back of the pots, cause the drawing (s) show solder on the back of the pots for ground, and do not show the 3rd terminal.
     
  19. Wfrance3

    Wfrance3 Supporting Member

    May 29, 2014
    Tulsa, OK
    I just re-wired a bass with 500K VVT. Linear taper vols and audio taper tone. - Mine is passive tho, with P-P series-parallel master tone. It's a world of improvement. Thanks again KBD for all the advice!

    Also, I had someone re-wire my Schecter Elite 5 passive with Delano soap bars before the bass mentioned above. Since these were 4-wire pickups, I had them wired independently to be series-single coil, pp-off the tone knobs. I gotta say, since switching over to all passive basses, i have not had to say to myself, "now where's that buzz coming from?" even once. Amazing how big a relief you realize that is once you look back and add up all the previous hassling with it you've been dealing with...
     
    Don Howell and Killed_by_Death like this.

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