I acquired a damaged Craigslist bass just to work on. Please understand this is a project, if it turns out, great, if not, well there is the experience. AND I saved some aspiring, unsuspecting DB player a lot of grief as there is plenty wrong with this bass. There are several questions in the text below and would appreciate any advice and insight that any experienced bass craftsman (or woman) can offer. I would also be interested if I am doing things in the right order. Sorry this is so long but I wanted to get it all out at one time. Thanks. I can’t seem to upload here so if you want to look at the patient in the rough, have a Kodak moment: http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=d22ok81.4kr5hc1t&x=0&y=-8c0yr7&localeid=en_US I have found a lot of good advice regarding attaching necks and gluing in general here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=490868&highlight=neck+block Condition: Bass – A 1974 Anton Schroetter 3/4 laminated student-grade German-export instrument . The seller said the neck was knocked off in a fall several years ago and that he didn’t attempt to repair it. Somebody did. Neck Joint - I think it had been unsuccessfully repaired with wood glue. The block is softwood and has a flat top with a couple scored grooves (I think). The ribs at the pocket are a little split up but not bad. The neck does not fit well in the pocket and I don’t see how it EVER did. The top plate is about 1/16” higher than the block leaving a tapered space between the neck butt and the block shelf. The button is mostly there but delaminating. The neck at the toe matches the button height. Fingerboard – Is ebony and appears to be not too badly warn; shaped with 1/8” camber. Loose about 4" at heel. Body – Some delimitation, damage edges, and at front at pocket due to neck trauma. Structurally sound. Bass bar – Appears to be separating from the top for about 2” on the north end. Hey, I wanted experience. Sound post area - The sound post, which was in-place, was set both too far south and at an angle with an edge digging into the top, there is a moderate bulge at the top 1“ south of the bridge foot. A round liner on the back inside appears to be a factory installation. Other parts – Neck looks like oak or hickory, but seems straight. Peg box and scroll are sound. Saddle and nut are good ebony. Replace tail wire w/ cable. Replace bridge - warped and stands 6 5/8 “ high. End pin will do. The plan: I have never done hide glue before so I have started to set up shop for hot gluing. Ordered threaded rod to make the 60 spool clamps needed to reset the top. Repair steps: 1. Read Traeger again. 2. Figure out the intended neck joint. There is no real mortise (you know, a pocket with cheeks), no dovetail, no good glue surface, just a flat shelf. The grain of the neck and the block are at 90 degrees. End-grain glue, the shredded button in shear and a little help from the rib ends are the only structural components of the neck joint. Is this typical for this grade bass? 3. Figure out the anchorage. This joint has been wood glued before. I am inclined to not rely on glue in tension and to bolt the neck to the block like Matthew did on his corner-less bass. Removable is nice. Or fill in the sides between the ribs with wood, to form a cheek to glue to? Anyone? 4. Figure out the neck joint angle. Maybe increase the angle to raise the strings at bridge to about 6 3/4” Glue in a tapered hardwood shim to fill the gap caused by the high front. 5. Dry fit the neck to check fit and bridge height. 6. Remove the top plate. First drill a lower and upper small pilot hole to realign with. Clean up glue. 7. Remove, clean glue and replace the bass bar. New or reuse? 8. Inspect the bulge caused by the sound post. Maybe add a pad, maybe large enough to add mass to the area as Traeger suggested for ply basses? 9. Reset the top. 10. Re-glue the fingerboard. Remove or just re-glue end? 11. Patch the delaminating top plys at the pocket and elsewhere. Where to get matching wood / finish? 12. Attach the neck. 13. Attach the machines. Polish or not? 14. Reset end pin. 15. New tail cable. 16. New sound post. 17. New bridge – adjusters. 18. New strings. 19. Adjust nut. 20. Evaluate setup. 21. Finish touch up, trim. As I said any advice is appreciated. Thanks, Gary.