Setup question

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by Oddman545, Feb 27, 2002.

  1. Ok. I have a Squier P-Bass, and there's a couple questions I got about it. I've set up the bass myself, following a website, and it seemed to work fine except the E string. When I tried to adjust it the thing at the bridge wouldn't go high or low enough to get it in tune, not even close. Am I doing something wrong or is it the bass and should I take it to the store let them look at it? Another thing is my volume knob, it's lose and I really don't want to open it up, it looks easy to do but because I've broken things before I don't really trust myself to open it up without knowing for sure what I'm looking for or what to do. Do you know?

  2. rllefebv


    Oct 17, 2000
    Newberg, Oregon
    If you've gone through it yourself and can't get it, or are uncomfortable with any part of the setup, then by all means, get it to a qualified repairperson. Ask if they'll let you watch while they work on it... Can't hurt to try...

  3. hmmmm.......good idea, why didn't I think of that? thanks though.
  4. Oddman -
    First - I question why you are using the bridge to make an attempt at tuning the E string? Yes you use it for setting the innotation, but for now just set the bridge in the middle and use the tuning peg to tune, then fool around with the innotation.

    Second - If the vol. knob is loose the fix is very easy. Take off the knob and there will be a little bolt that you tighten. That should fix it, then replace the knob.

    If I am missing something - let me know.

    Later -
  5. Is it the knob that's loose on the control shaft or is the pot complete that's loose on the pick guard?

    If it's the former then, as Keithconn says, just tighten the grubscrew holding the knob to the pot's shaft. Some pot shafts have splines in which case the knob pulls off upwards. But, in that case, the pot's probably loose on the pick guard because splined shafts don't need grubscrews.

    To gain access to the pot body you'll have to remove the pick guard. Put the bass flat on it's back. Loosen the strings (but don't take them all the way off). Remove the knob from the offending pot. Then remove the small chrome screws holding the guard to the bass body. Gently ease the guard upwards and kind of move it away from the bass body taking great care not to strain / break the ground wire that runs from the electrics to the bridge.

    Check that the internal wiring is not strained by the pot's rotating on the guard, and reposition the pot such that the wiring is OK.

    Holding the pot body between the fingers, tighten the nut that holds the pot to the pick guard. Use a spanner if possible, something like electricians' pliers if you've no spanner but, in that case, take care they don't slip and scratch the guard. Re-assemble the bass and retune the strings.

    Job done.


  6. jizzer


    Feb 28, 2002
    Hi Oddman545
    could you point me towards that website you used for setting up your bass Thanks
  7. I don't remember the website exactly, it's not under my favorites, just do a search on a search engine like I did. On the website, it says to tune the string, then to do the intonation like you said, but I can't get it ontonated(?) right. It's in tune up to about the 5th fret, and at about the 12th fret (a whole octave) it's pretty badly off. Taht's what I wanna know how to fix.

    Thanks though,
  8. bizzaro


    Aug 21, 2000
    I think you are trying to adjust your intonation with your saddle height adjustment screw because of the way you worded it. The intonation screw on a standard Fender P is accessed from the back of the bridge(the part facing the strap pin). It is not the two allen head screws that you get at from from the front of the bass at the bridge on each side of the string saddle. Are you sure you are using the intonation screw?? And if you are, are you flat at the 12 fret? Are you are turning the intonation screw counter clock wise? If so, the pressure from the string amy be holding the saddle in place. This happens all the time. The screw turns but the pressure from the string holds the saddle and keeps it from moving. If this is what is happening you need to push the screw forward till it butts up against the bridge again. This is easiest with the string loosened up a bit. Any questions?;)
  9. Yea, I'm using the right one. I'm not raising the saddle or nothing. I've noticed that the saddle doesn't really move either, I just push it a little and it'll go, but I'm really sure, I think something's up. I have the E string in tune. Then, I go to 12th fret and see if it's in tune and it's way off. Then I adjust the intonation thing (or I try) and I'll have the saddle sitting up on my pickup before it's close to being right, and since saddles don't go that high, I can' get it right. BTW I've tried going to other way too...
  10. bizzaro


    Aug 21, 2000
    If your saddle is moving fore and aft, but it won't intonate properly, I would guess it to be a bad string. Can't say for sure as I have never had this experience. If all your other strings intonate reasonably well, try a different string. The saddle should be a little closer to the bridge than the A string saddle{the opposite of what you stated}(you did say E string didn't you).The saddles should vary in position, but all should be within a resonable proximity of each other. Is your tuner reliable?
  11. malibu

    malibu Guest

    Dec 26, 2001
    yes, it sounds like you went in opposite direction - the scale length -from nut to saddle- should be the longest for the E, generally it should be farther back by the diameter of the string.
    so G would have the shortest scale length, D farther back by its diameter, A longer scale length than D by it's diameter, and the E farthest back about .105" or whatever from the D saddle.
  12. well oddfellow, intonation is always kinda tricky for me, pain in the captain's quarter's if ya ask me, took me half hour to get mine right!
  13. well, I'll try to go back again and get it closer to the bridge. I did it on all the strings, and my tuner is reliable ;) . I'll just see if it's the other way, and if not I'll try one of my old strings, and if that isn't it, it's going to the store for a looksy.
  14. bizzaro


    Aug 21, 2000
    A good place to start is the thickness of your E string behind(closer to the bridge) than your A string saddle. Get it. That should get you within a few millimeters of where it needs to be. From there if the fretted note is sharp, move the saddle back toward the bridge, if the fretted note is flat move the saddle away from the bridge towards the nut.Got it? Let me know how it goes.
  15. Ok. I can't work on it today though (wish I could). Stupid school, never realize I have more important things to do than homework!:mad:
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