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SG & EB Bass Club

Anyone ever played a Grabber with the sliding pickup? I'm still brainstorming ideas for my as-yet-not-found Epi EB-0 project. I'm thinking one of Curtis Novak's Grabber pickups mounted in his reproduction pickup slider plate with the pickup centered on the P position might be an interesting thing to try, and it would be keeping the pickup in the Gibson family. The one YT video I found from Serek, the pickup sounds great and the slider really makes a difference.
 
Yes, I played a Grabber in a music store a couple of times back in the mid 70s.

I also owned a Gibson G-3 for a couple of years around the same time.

It was a nice sounding bass, but I never bonded with it sound-wise.

1) It had bar magnets, and
2) I didn't like the middle position, which I think Gibson called it, the hum buck and a half setting; all 3 pickups were on at once.

I never liked the sound, as I felt it wasn't articulate enough.

I tried to live with it, but after 2 years, I reluctantly sold it to a friend of mine, who loved it.

He installed kill switches for each of the pickups, so he could get any combination he wanted.

Mike
 
This is the video I was talking about. I think this sliding pickup plate setup with the Grabber pickup would work well on an EB-0. You would have to take out the mudbucker to make room for the sliding plate, but I was already going to do that. Is this a humbucker or a single coil? I thought it was a humbucker, but I'm not sure, either way it sounds great.

 
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Well...the Hipshot bridge came, so I put it on. Bad news...bottomed out and I'm still looking at .120-.130, or a little over 3mm, at the 12th fret. I'm used to .080-.090 on my other basses. It's definitely a kink in the neck bending the nut side upwards.

I don't know what to do at this point. See how much I can file away from the bottom of the Hipshot saddles? Put the old bridge back on and file the saddles down further? Get the kink straightened out? Neck reset? Just man up and live with the high action as this is normal? (it does mean I can dig in hard with fingers)

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If there's an actual kink in the neck itself, resetting it won't help but there are other approaches that might. Heat sometimes works wonders if properly applied - don't ask me how I know - but whoever's working on it has to know what thery're doing. There is a company whose names escapes me now - something to do with a warped neck - that people around here had good experiences with. Maybe ask in the Luthier's Corner section of the forum.

Strings with less tension - something along the lines of La Bella tapewounds in 50/105 - might ease the pain as well.

Wishing you the very best of luck.
 
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If there's an actual kink in the neck itself, resetting it won't help but there are other approaches that might. Heat sometimes works wonders if properly applied - don't ask me how I know - but whoever's working on it has to know what thery're doing. There is a company whose names escapes me now - something to do with a warped neck - that people around here had good experiences with. Maybe ask in the Luthier's Corner section of the forum.

Strings with less tension - something along the lines of La Bella tapewounds in 50/105 - might ease the pain as well.

Wishing you the very best of luck.
As I previously mentioned, it's the "ski jump" / "rising tongue" kink. My thought was that the reset would get the action down, and then from there I'd have the rising tongue frets knocked down. I'd hate to have to ship, and then have catastrophic damage in shipping.

I'm already using their Low Tension Flats now.
 
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As I previously mentioned, it's the "ski jump" / "rising tongue" kink. My thought was that the reset would get the action down, and then from there I'd have the rising tongue frets knocked down. I'd hate to have to ship, and then have catastrophic damage in shipping.

I'm already using their Low Tension Flats now.

Well, for a ski jump on an EB, yeah. Neck reset.

Where are you located ? I'm not asking for the ZIP, just the general vicinity...

BTW, La Bella Tapes are even lower tension than the LTFs.
 
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Well, for a ski jump on an EB, yeah. Neck reset.

Where are you located ? I'm not asking for the ZIP, just the general vicinity...
My travels might take me somewhat close to Alpha Music in Virginia Beach, where @walterw performs the heat straightening method (I saw his posts in the big thread about ski jumps). I just sent them an email. Better than having to pack to survive shipping to Texas for warpedneck.com.

I have a feeling that straightening out the ski jump will fix the fundamental geometry.
 
I also put the small buttons on. One tuner popped apart (or the cover was missing) so I had to cover it up with copper tape. I'm saving almost 3 ounces on the headstock and have a little more clearance to avoid a catastrophic collision. Visually imbalanced? Maybe, but so were the banjo tuners of 1959.
 

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So on that kink.. what is the truss rod doing? I would test it. Remove strings and turn it to its fullest in both directions. Loosening it will eventually full relax it and should be a boatload of relief. Tightening it will bend it up to a fair arc. Or convex , or underbow. Whatever you call it the neck should go in both directions with a normal working truss rod. If it doesn't then we source the issue there. Can be a couple different things. If working string it up. Gibsons ime prefer very little relief. Especially a Les Paul but the basses as well. Put a straight edge on it and see what it's doing. Make it flat. Then check with that height gauge at the 12th. Should be about 5 and 4 - 64ths bass and treble strings.
 
Just checked the bridge pickup, it clocks in at 7k.

Looking on Reverb, I found two pickups that look like mine and measure close to 1.2k like mine <snip>
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Given that you found those ads for mudbuckers that measure close to your pickup's resistance value, I would guess that Gibson produced a run of EB-3 basses with a high-impedance bridge pickup and a low-impedance mudbucker.

There were Les Paul guitars and basses in their lineup in the late '60s and early '70s that had low-impedance pickups (some or all of which had a built-in transformer to enable them to be plugged into conventional amps).

A further guess: Gibson intended the high-impedance bridge pickup in your bass to be used with a regular amp for live performances, reserving the mudbucker for studio work, where the bass was supposed to be plugged directly into a mic input on the mixing board. Maybe the rotary switch was meant to let the studio bassist go either way during a session.

While it's true that there's not a lot of room for a transformer in the wiring cavity in your bass, I'm pretty sure that you could cannibalize a $25 Shure (or equivalent) matching transformer adapter plug (XLR to 1/4 inch) for the tiny transformer element and wire it in.

Or, of course, you could pull the mudbucker and install an Artec mudbucker (around $35), which measures something around 30K, like the original mudbuckers.

More info, if anyone's interested:

The company also sold a companion amplifier, the LP12. It was a monster, with a preamp head and a cabinet containing an amp that put out 150 watts RMS in a bi-amped arrangement that sent 75 watts to four 12" speakers and 75 watts to two 10" horns.

They weren't alone in going for the preamp head/powered cabinet arrangement. Fender had their Super Showman (see the video of the live Focus show where they play a hyper-speed version of their one hit, Hocus Pocus; the guitar player plays through a mammoth Super Showman), Sunn and Acoustic Control both had several such models, etc.

Gibson, unlike those other companies, didn't have much of a presence in the amp market. So when the LP12 sold poorly, after what must have been a big investment in design and manufacture, they pretty much gave up on selling amps.

(I bought an LP12 from Guitar Center for $150 about 10 years ago, mostly for the sheer magnificent goofiness of it. It's sitting in the next room right now. Just double-checked, and yes, the two channels have two inputs each, labeled IMPEDANCE HIGH LOW.)

Les Paul himself talked Gibson into branching out into low-impedance instruments. From a quick search:

  • Les Paul's Preference: Les Paul hated distortion and preferred a clean tone for studio recording, leading him to design these pickups to achieve better clarity and overtones.
  • Studio Focus: The instruments were originally intended for professional studio use, designed to plug directly into low-impedance inputs of mixing consoles.
  • Reduced Noise and Increased Fidelity: Low-impedance coils have low DC resistance, which, while creating a weaker output signal, provides a much wider frequency response and cleaner sound.
 
Hey y'all,

A while back I bought a 1970 EB-0L because I love the mudbucker sound. As you know, this sound is far from versatile. One of the previous owners of this bass thought that adding a diagonal jbass pickup near the bridge will fix that issue.
Even though they also added a pickup selector and V/T pots, it's virtually impossible to nicely balance the pickups' outputs.

I have the idea of replacing the jbass pickup with something more appropriate and was wondering if anybody ever tried pairing a bisonic pickup with the mudbucker. I'm specifically looking at the Curtis Novak EB-BSx as it will make the mod look more intentional and the large footprint of the EB pickup should be able to hide the jbass hole.

So I guess the question is - does anybody know whether the Novak EB-BSx in the bridge position would pair well with a mudbucker in neck position?

Thanks in advance <3
 
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Hey y'all,

A while back I bought a 1970 EB-0L because I love the mudbucker sound. As you know, this sound is far from versatile. One of the previous owners of this bass thought that adding a diagonal jbass pickup near the bridge will fix that issue.
Even though they also added a pickup selector and V/T pots, it's virtually impossible to nicely balance the pickups' outputs.

I have the idea of replacing the jbass pickup with something more appropriate and was wondering if anybody ever tried pairing a bisonic pickup with the mudbucker. I'm specifically looking at the Curtis Novak EB-BSx as it will make the mod look more intentional and the large footprint of the EB pickup should be able to hide the jbass hole.

So I guess the question is - does anybody know whether the Novak EB-BSx in the bridge position would pair well with a mudbucker in neck position?

Thanks in advance <3
I don't know the answer, but just for conversational purposes, I'll say that the EB-BSx isn't a particularly high output pickup (in the neck position, it's in the same general neighborhood as my P bass [stock P pickup in stock P position on a stock P], at least output wise; i.e., I don't have to make any big amp volume setting changes when switching basses).

Why not look to get an EB-3 bridge pickup (vintage, or a modern repro, like Novak's: EB-Bridge
Or maybe an Artec (maybe their 4 string bass pickup MVBA4: AlNiCo bar magnet fits? I don't know for a fact)

Or maybe a modern variation on that theme, or something meant to be different:
I came across this, though I'm not sure "Neodymium magnets" sounds like what I'd want for mysef (but you're you, not me): EB Bass Bridge Pickup - Revel Custom Pickups

Of course, you have that J-bass route to deal with, so that's its own issue.

Anyway, just some thoughts. I'm not saying "don't do it" regarding the EB-BSx.

Maybe post a pic so people can see the routing you're dealing with. Might get some creative thinking going…
 
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Hmm, that's quite a route. That guy really angled it, eh?

Well, I'm thinking, why not a straight Bisonic. The EB-DSx is like a double (so, humbucking) Bisonic (splittable to only one coil, though the magnetic field of the other coil still exists, so never exactly a single coil), but the other thing is, it comes under a mudbucker cover. The regular Bisonic would give a contrasting look that might be cool, plus a pickup surround could cover some real estate on the top of the instrument so as to possibly cover the route.

I found this video of a guy with a double Bisonic SG bass [using Guild Bisonics, I'm guessing modern ones]. He solos the bridge pickup at least twice that I noticed (at about the 1:20 mark playing fingerstyle and then again at about the 5:00 mark with a pick), so that might give you an idea on the sound (for reference, he mentioned in the comments that he's using Thomastik-Infeld flats, so that'll have an effect):

Of course, that doesn't show how it would balance in practice with an actual Gibson sidewinder pickup. You might have to experiment a bit to come up with your ideal solution.

Finally his pickguard makes me think you could do some sort of arty thing over the front of the instrument, perhaps only over parts, like maybe a painted wood laminate overlay, that would cover the route holes…

Just some more thoughts.

I'll be interested to read what you decide on and how it works :bassist:
 
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Hmm, that's quite a route. That guy really angled it, eh?

Tom Scholz had one just like that - albeit a short scale version - with the same "angled jazz" approach that he used on Boston's first album and possibly later.

@Tomer.N.T : You'll have quite some difficulty finding a pickup that will play nice with the Sidewinder/Mudbucker. Even with two Sidewinders installed - been there and done that many harvests ago - the bridge position will always end up being notably thinner, and the match far from ideal.

I'd just fool around with different J pickups until I found one that was to my liking, but that's me.

Another small thing: your EB-0L might have two caps in the electronics cavity. Remove the 0.1 cap if it's still there and you'll hear a very different instrument, IMO/IME.

Happy modding!
 

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