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Short Scale Soundgear Bass Build

davegardner0

davegardner0

Mar 27, 2016
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109
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#1
Earlier this year I completed my first ever "from scratch" instrument build, it took me two years! I finally had time to compile the photos, I wrote a long "how its made" post on imgur (270 photos!)
Imgur post:


Youtube demo (before finishing):


I'd previously done kits, assembled and finished warmoth parts, etc. but I decided I wanted to try my hand at the whole process, and I'm really happy with how it came out!

For this project I wanted to make a short scale bass that has a modern tight tone, rather than warm and bassy like most short scale basses. But at the same time I wanted to keep the ergonomics of a short scale instrument. This bass is for my wife, who plays bass and loves her Ibanez SR700 but finds a long-scale (34") a bit too large and heavy.

Flickr album with shots of the finished bass: SSB Short Scale Bass Project

Full specs:
  • Body: hard maple core, mahogany wings, curly soft maple top and back plates
  • Neck: torrefied maple and wenge, abalone inlay and dots, two-way truss rod
  • Finish: gloss nitro lacquer over ainline dye on body, linseed oil and beeswax on neck
  • Electronics: Bartolini classic bass MK4 pickups, 3-band bartolini preamp
  • Hardware: hipshot triple lockdown single string bridges, hipshot tuners
  • Nut: buffalo horn
  • Frets: nickel silver, small size
  • Strings: Labella white nylon tapewound
 

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#4
If you don't mind me asking, what did you end up with for neck thickness (front to back) at the 1st and 12th frets? I like the Soundgear 4 string necks better than anything I've played, been tempted to bring a set of dial calipers to the guitar store to measure one, but that might go down a little unwelcome! My current build has Jazz width (1-1/2") nut, but I haven't carved thr neck yet. Rule of thumb for a Jazz is around .80" at the 1st and around .90" at the 12th, where did yours end up? C or D profile?
 
#5
Gilmourisgod said:
If you don't mind me asking, what did you end up with for neck thickness (front to back) at the 1st and 12th frets? I like the Soundgear 4 string necks better than anything I've played, been tempted to bring a set of dial calipers to the guitar store to measure one, but that might go down a little unwelcome! My current build has Jazz width (1-1/2") nut, but I haven't carved thr neck yet. Rule of thumb for a Jazz is around .80" at the 1st and around .90" at the 12th, where did yours end up? C or D profile?
Click to expand...

I had a look at my build notes. I was shooting for a 22mm front-back thickness at both the 1st and 12th fret (so no taper on the thickness, only the width). Looks like I went slightly under, and ended up at about 21mm (0.83") along the whole neck after finish sanding. It's been a while, but I think I shot for slightly thicker than the Ibanez at the 1st fret for fear of the truss rod popping out the back of the neck.

As far as the neck profile, I guess you could call it an asymmetric C. The "shoulders" are uneven, the treble side has less material to make it easier to reach around the neck, especially for smaller hands up towards the higher frets. Whereas the bass side has more material remaining to give then neck something to hold onto with your thumb, and not make it feel too tiny. I think it's still thickest along the centerline, it's just a matter of the shape being different on either side.

Regarding the Ibanez necks, they have the dimensions online for everything, like at this page: SR4CMLTD | SR | ELECTRIC BASSES | PRODUCTS | Ibanez guitars

neck.JPG
 
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#6
That brings up the whole issue of neck thickness taper along the length. I originally drew my neck with no taper as you describe. Is there any real functional purpose to increasing neck thickness (front to back) as you climb towards the bridge, or is it just tradition? I suppose it also adds some strength as the maximum bending force occurrs at the center span.The Soundgear taper from 1st to 12th is subtle enough that I can't really feel it consciously.
 
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#7
Gilmourisgod said:
That brings up the whole issue of neck thickness taper along the length. I originally drew my neck with no taper as you describe. Is there any real functional purpose to increasing neck thickness (front to back) as you climb towards the bridge, or is it just tradition? I suppose it also adds some strength as the maximum bending force occurrs at the center span.The Soundgear taper from 1st to 12th is subtle enough that I can't really feel it consciously.
Click to expand...

I think the usual front-to-back taper is just tradition, honestly. I don't think there's much function, especially on a quartersawn multi-piece neck like this. the neck is already plenty strong.
 

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