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Should I super glue my strap holders?

Discussion in 'Ask Mike Watt [Archived]' started by Osama_Spears, Jan 25, 2003.

  1. Ok,my strap holder comes loose every few minutes...

    I rescrew it in everytime,and it always comes back out,it hasn't falled out yet...but it happened to my friend,his strap holder just fell out,he musta stripped the wood...well,I wanna know if superglueing the screw into the body would be a good thing,Please help me!

  2. watt

    watt TalkBass Pro Supporting Member


    the old tried and true method is to use carpenter's wood glue (kind of yellowish) w/toothpicks to fill the hole. let dry for a couple days. break the part of the toothpick(s) sticking out and screw in the woodscrew - the toothpick(s) and glue will become new anchors for the treads. hope this helps. another think about is using a screw w/the same diameter but w/a longer length (like even an inch!). best be would be to combine both these ideas. it's worked for me.

    on bass, watt

  3. Matt Till

    Matt Till

    Jun 1, 2002
    Edinboro, PA
    Watts idea sound really secure, but what I did is I just packed in as many toothpick halves into that little space that I could and just screwed it in. No glue was really required, and it's held really sturdy for months now. I completly forgot about it until I read this thread. The screws just need something they can grip on. The orignial hole has been stripped a bit. But Watt's idea sounds safer.
  4. watt

    watt TalkBass Pro Supporting Member


    if it works, that means you have success!

    a little glue might be worth the insurance though maybe.

    on bass, watt

  5. I used super glue on my jazz bass that had screws keep stripping the wood... It was at the point where I'd tighten it and It'd be loose in another hour of playing. Superglue worked for me, and I havent had and strap screw problems on that bass in two years:)

    Super glue has never failed me, i use it for everything:D and thats a fact!
  6. watt

    watt TalkBass Pro Supporting Member


    thanks for relating your experiences. I mentioned the toothpicks cuz if the holes have been stripped out too much, there might be too large a gap between the screw and the wood for the glue to fill.

    on bass, watt

  7. When mine fell out, I just replaced it with a screw. So far it's working good, though it's starting to get a bit loose.
  8. watt

    watt TalkBass Pro Supporting Member


    if I were you, I'd fix it good cuz you don't want it coming out in a gig. if you feel it loose, it's gonna break free soon. glue in some toothpicks and let it dry good (a few days at least). then work that screw in again or a longer one of the same diameter.

    on bass, watt

  9. Borntu


    Nov 12, 2002
    St. George, Utah
    This is funny, I had to look at my basses to see if I had ever done this to any of them in the day, and all but one of them have screws in the upper strap holder holes. Whotta trip! Guess I never thought about it, I used 1' Lag bolts.
  10. watt

    watt TalkBass Pro Supporting Member


    I'm not surprised cuz lots of mine are like that too. loads of stress gets put upon there. builders should kind of get hipped to that, huh? I think what's needed is more feedback from players to builders so that can be so enlightened. a little bit of overdesign here would not hurt. just my opinion.

    on bass, watt

  11. Subculture13

    Subculture13 Jamming Econo

    Apr 9, 2003
    Toronto, Ont. Canada
    If you have the time and inclination to do the "proper" repair here is the low-down from a professional guitar tech... (Although the toothpick method is fantastic and I have used it many times in the past, with or without glue)

    Buy a small piece of round wood dowel from any hardware or lumber store. It should be no more than about 1/4" in diameter. Use a drill bit that is the same diameter as your dowel to first clear the path and to make the old worn out screwhole a nice and clean round hole to work with. Take care to not go to deep, you want to bore out all the softened and stripped wood, but not so deep to weaken the body at all. Rub some wax (I find parafin wax is best for this, you can find it anywhere, I bought a small chunk from a hardware store for about 50 cents and it'll last me a lifetime) on the painted area all around the hole you drilled to protect the paint from getting any dried glue on it. Then use a smooth grit sandpaper on the dowel to sand it down just a touch so the dowel will go into the hole smoothly with only minimal tapping from a rubber mallet. Put some carpenter glue in the hole, and with a twisting motion push the dowel into the hole, using a mallet at the end to make sure you have a good fit, all the way in. Wait overnight for it to dry and cure really good, then break off the excess dowel, wipe off the wax, which will take any extra glue that came out of the hole with it, mess free. Sand down any dowel that is still sticking out above the wood height until it's a nice flat surface again. Then using a very small drill bit, make a "pilot-hole" right through the center of your now repaired hole to allow some clearance for the screw that you are about to put back in place. This step is important as the now filled-in hole will not have any room for the screw to go, it needs some space of it's own.

    Good luck and happy repairs.
  12. takeout

    takeout Supporting Member

    Dec 27, 2002
    Kansas City area
    I use the toothpick/glue trick with two differences:

    1. I put the screw in while the glue is wet, so the screw forces the glue into the surrounding wood, and

    2. I use 3" drywall screws.

    Extreme, perhaps... but I've only had to do it once for each bass I've done it to.
  13. watt

    watt TalkBass Pro Supporting Member


    3" dry wall screws - yes! good plan! I've used screws 'pert-near this long too. like my pop used to say: "do it right, do it once."

    on bass, watt