Shure GLXD16 - Hardwire the cable?

Discussion in 'Live Sound [BG]' started by Mo'Phat, Nov 16, 2020.


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  1. I've been having real issues with the mini-XLR jack on my GLXD-16 beltpack transmitter. It just loses connection with the receiver until I can jiggle the cable connection on the beltpack again, then it re-connects.

    I don't think this is a dropout issue - pretty confident it's a cable connection issue. (please educate me if this is a dropout symptom)

    Has anyone ever just soldered a cable into the beltpack and skipped the detachable BS? I don't really need to detach the cable ever, and it's become a point of failure.

    Good idea? Bad idea?

    /caveat: I jump around ALOT on stage, so want the most rock-solid connections possible and can't just skip the wireless and use a cable.
     
  2. Yes, jiggling the cable means it’s a cable issue. Hopefully at least. The other issue could be that the sockets inside the mini XLR are wallowed out, in which case a new connector would be needed.

    If you’re comfortable disassembling the transmitter and soldering the cable directly to the connections, I’d say go for it (as long as the unit is out of warranty).

    However, if you can do that you could probably easier simply disassemble the mini XLR and make a repair (speaking as an expert cable maker, I hate those miserable little connectors).

    Regards,
    Wayne A. Pflughaupt

    Ecclesia: Unique Arrangements of Hymns, P&W Standards, and Original Tunes
    Administrator, Pedulla Club #45
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  3. Bought it used, so warranty is not an issue. I may take it apart and poke around in there.
     
  4. walterw

    walterw Supportive Fender Commercial User

    Feb 20, 2009
    alpha-music.com
    worst idea ever

    now when the cable starts failing you won't be able to swap it out!

    the problem is usually in the cable plug itself, those little mini-XLRs are kinda fragile; it's best to have a backup cable or two.
     
    WayneP likes this.
  5. Understood...but I have also gone through 3 cables.

    Just looking for a zero dollar solution.

    Is a 6" patch cable - mini XLR to Female 1/4" -available anywhere? If the mini XLR removal is the problem child, then I could essentially have a permanent solution with more reliable 1/4" disconnectable connections.

    Or make my own, I suppose.
     
  6. walterw

    walterw Supportive Fender Commercial User

    Feb 20, 2009
    alpha-music.com
    again no, because the failure point then becomes the hard-wired connection inside the beltpack (assuming such a thing is even possible, it may not be)
     
    s0c9 likes this.
  7. Wasnex

    Wasnex

    Dec 25, 2011
    The problem could be in how the mini XLR connector is attached to circuit board inside the belt pack.

    I have an older guitar beltpack that uses a 1/4" jack that is mounted directly to a circuit card. I resoldered the terminals for the 1/4" jack a couple of times, but the repair did not hold.


    FYI, The symptoms I was having presented as a bad 1/4" to 1/4" cable. The cable would stop passing signal, but if I barely touched it, it would start working again. I could jiggle the plugs in the beltpack jack and the guitar jack and the problem did not occur.

    I believe the problem is due to the way the circuit card is made. I believe a little metal ring goes through the card and is attached to the solder trace with a small wire. The connector for the 1/4" jack goes through the ring and is soldered in place. Over time mechanical stress breaks the little wire, so the connection becomes noisy and intermittent. Heat it up with solder and it improves the situation for a short period of time, but does not really fix it.

    Eventually I took a more aggressive approach and partially removed the card, so I could follow the solder traces. I ran a jumper wire from the + terminal of the 1/4" jack to the next component in the signal path. For now the problem is fixed. The 1/4" jack still moves around a bit. But now it has a flexible wire bridging the gap between the + output terminal and the next component in the signal path.
     
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  8. PCR

    PCR

    Apr 11, 2008
    Make your own.
    That's what I do.
    You can get all the parts here: www.redco.com

    Here is what you will need:
    • Mini Female XLR 3 pin plug
    • Canare GS-4 Instrument cable
    • Your choice of 1/4 TS Male plug
    I make a bunch of these, and have extras in all my gig bags and amp bags.

    Never want this one part to fail during a gig.
     
  9. Good idea - I know my way around a soldering iron. Redco doesn't seem to have the Mini Female XLR 3 pin connectors, though. TA4F is what's needed.

    I've bought a couple replacement cable assemblies from www.btpa.com, and have found the retaining threaded collar on the TA4F is the weak link. I'll look around at other places.
     
  10. I found some at mouser.com

    Amphenol AG3FL
    Desc.:
    XLR Connectors 3 Pole Female w/ Locking ring Nickel

    Pretty sure the connectors that Shure and BTPA use are Rean/Neutrik, and I've gone through a few different cables. I'll give it a go with Amphenol.
     
  11. walterw

    walterw Supportive Fender Commercial User

    Feb 20, 2009
    alpha-music.com
    i really like that my line 6 relay G75 uses regular 1/4" plugs into the beltpack, so much more robust and easy to fix
     
    Plectrum72 and WayneP like this.
  12. But I am a superfan of the lithium ion rechargeable belt pack and tuner on the GLX.

    Tradeoffs everywhere.

    I agree that the 1/4" is a much better solution. I made my own cables when I used the G30.
     
    walterw likes this.
  13. PCR

    PCR

    Apr 11, 2008

    Here you go: Rean Neutrik RT3FC-B 3 pin Mini Female XLR | Redco Audio
     
  14. PCR

    PCR

    Apr 11, 2008
    Having made and used a pile of different connectors, I like using the push button connectors more than the locking ring. They just click in and stay locked in. I'm always afraid that the ring will cross thread.

    They both work fine, that's just my opinion.
     
  15. Stupid me didn't know they were interchangeable. I'm not a fan of the locking ring at all - I just didn't know I could use a push-button one instead....didn't know the male end on the Shure accepted a push-button.
     
  16. walterw

    walterw Supportive Fender Commercial User

    Feb 20, 2009
    alpha-music.com
    the tuner works well and yeah, that battery is amazing! charges fast and lasts forever.
     
  17. What I REALLY want is a GLX form-factor IEM system. Rechargeable...gobs of different channels to choose from...pedalboard friendly.
     
  18. walterw

    walterw Supportive Fender Commercial User

    Feb 20, 2009
    alpha-music.com
    $400 purely digital 2.4GHz IEMs just don't seem to be a thing from anybody, maybe the typical 4ms latency is deemed to be too high for that?
     
  19. ...a girl can dream.

    I have a Mipro IEM and picked up an XVive U4, and have had stage issues with both.

    Maybe wireless and me just don't mix.
     
  20. Barisaxman

    Barisaxman Gold Supporting Member

    Aug 17, 2005
    Omaha, NE
    The 2.4 ghz (wifi) band is just littered these days with devices, and it gets harder and harder to get good performance from these types of devices in some places because of how cluttered that can be. I actually just retired by Line 6 G90 to a box in the corner because I could almost never trust it to be good for more than about 25 ft of range in any given venue because every channel had significant RF. My IEM's are Sennheiser G3's that work in the UHF (legal frequencies, of course) band, and I just moved to a Shure SLX-D system that also transmits in the UHF spectrum (digital audio though). Crystal clear functionality and none of the wifi frequency mess.
     
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