A "blem" I ordered from a on-line vendor arrived today, with no apparent cosmetic defect I can find. I think the box had been opened, however. Anyway, I don't yet have a cab to try it with, so I connected it to a Peavey SP112M 8 ohm floor monitor (12" speaker and horn), just to check it out at low volume. To my surprise, it seems to generate very little output. The "signal" LED illuminates when a note is played, but with the preamp gain, preamp volume, and master volume all at 12 o'clock, the volume is quite low; less than I get with my Behringer BX1200 120 watt combo amp. I can hear a fair bit of background hiss at those settings. I'm using a inexpensive passive Washburn P/J bass that works fine with the Behringer amp. I have never before tried connecting a bass amp to the Peavey monitor (which is a known good PA cab; works fine with my PA head), and am unsure whether the low volume is indicative of a problem with the Shuttle, or merely of my having used a PA, rather than proper bass cab? I'm going to try to find a bass cab to try it with, but in the interim thought I'd consult those of you with Shuttle experience - do you find you have to advance the various volume controls significantly before you start to get appreciable volume? Is a low volume to be expected when using a bass amp with a PA cab? I know that I'll get less output with a 4 ohm cab, but I still was anticipating something rather more thunderous!
You should have plenty of output even with that PA wedge. Are you sure everything is hooked up properly, and that you've set gain as recommended in the manual?
I played around with the Shuttle a little more, and discovered that the Overload LED won't come on, regardless of the setting of the input stage gain or volume controls. Even fully clockwise for both. My bass is passive, but I would have thought that the sensitivity range for the input would have made overload possible at some point? With more aggressive use of the volume controls, I am getting more output, but still suspect it's not what 375 watts should be. As a separate question, did yours come with a warranty registration card of some kind? Mine has only the instruction manual and an inspection card, showing factory inspection. I'm beginning to think that this unit is defective, and that the vendor shipped it out as a blem when it really was a customer return which should not have been re-sold without being refurb'ed...
The cool thing is that Genz Benz will fix this for you better and faster than you could ever imagine. PM tb user Hasbeen, or call them (number should be on their website). They stand behind their products better than anyone I've ever seen. Good luck, Liam
Thanks, Liam. I'll try making contact, before returning it to the vendor (not MF, but Music123). One reason I was interested in the product was G-B's rep for good customer service; I had hoped, however, not to need to test it for myself! On the positive side, Music123 will accept returns for 45 days, so my downside risk is limited, other than the hassle factor.
Let me clarify a few things... If you have a very low output passive bass (it's got to be pretty darned low), it's possible that you may not have enough gain available to overload the tube styage. In this case, you may need to use a preamp or gain boost pedal if that's the sound you are going for. This is especially true for single coil pickups where the pole height is adjusted for excessive clearance. Is it possible the pickup height was never set properly? The gain structure is designed to accomodate all the new high output basses, some of which are virtually unuseable with some of the higher gain amps and will distort the amp's preamp stage at any input setting. As far as the hiss when uysing a PA cabinet, the horns in a typical PA cabinet are croosed over lower than bass cabinets and they are also set via the internal crossover for higher (net) sensitivity as they are carrying a larger portion of the program when used for PA. This also means that any hiss will also be amplified by this amount... as much as 9dB above a typical bass amp tweeter setting. It's also possible that your monitor has a piezo tweeter which may have a very high sensitivity right smack dab in the "hiss" range. The knob positions are not directly comparable between amplifier brands or models. This has no relationship to available volume since each manufacturer chooses their own knob taper and sensitivity curves. Check these things out first, it may not be anything wrong with the amp.
Thanks, AgedHorse. I plan to take the unit tomorrow to a friend's house, to try some other gear just in case it's something like that. He's got a Fender P-bass and a Carvin B-4 I can try it with (both passive, however), along with a Carvin BRX 4-10 NEO cab and some Ampeg cabs. I appreciate the suggestions, and will get back to you with the results. Jeff
The test should take less time than the drive to your friend's house. 1. Plug in his bass and cabinet. If the Shuttle doesn't sound right, you have your answer in one try. Get it serviced or return it for replacement. 2. If the Shuttle sounded OK, then try your bass. 3. If it still sounds OK, then it was simply the PA wedge that caused the problem, which means the head is fine. 4. If your bass doesn't play well with the Shuttle, you can decide whether to solve this problem or switch to a different amp. PS: It could simply be a broken 12AX7 tube. Input gain would be almost zero. If that's the case, GB would probably send you another tube before having you send the head for service.
Sounds logical to me. I have a Behringer Bass V-amp, which should act as a preamp, and I'll try that to see if the issue is whether the bass I'm using isn't putting out enough signal for the head's input stage. Plugging in my friend's P-bass and B4ought to also provide some indication along those lines - I assume those are reasonably "typical" passive basses, that the head should be able to work well with? The input tube is a interesting possibility. The manual doesn't say anything abut the tube, or how to replace it, but I assume it's probably fairly straightforward? Other than observing that "the head doesn't seem to work properly", is there a easy way to tell if the tube is the culprit other than just trying a swap with a known good one?
I just picked up one of these and was also wondering about tube replacement. What is the life span on those babies and when they die, is it user replaceable or does it need to go to a service center ? (Tube noob as you can tell....)
Try the amp with a different bass first. That may clear up the questions quickly and effortlessly. Generally in the tube circuit we use, the tube will either work fine or be unuseable. We burn everything in and have very few tube problems. It's possible but not very likely.
That was why it was step #1 on my list. Different bass and cabinet, which eliminates the external equipment. I forgot you were here; good to see you're on this too! I agree about a cracked tube being completely unusable, though I wonder if it's possible to have some signal even with it dead. Kinda depends on the circuit design.
Yes, it does depend on the circuit design and the type of tube defect. A cracked envelope will probably generate no sound regardless of the circuit as electrons don't travel all that well across an "air" gap. There are defects that will cause impeded electron flow and some of these can indeed lower the output by a large degree. These types of defects are not all that common though (fortunately).
Update, and thanks: Well, I drove over to our bassist's house a couple of hours ago, and plugged the Shuttle into his 4-ohm Carvin BRX 410 NEO, using his Fender Highway 1 P-Bass. It worked just fine! Plenty of volume, even with the volume controls around 9:00 o'clock. The Overload light came on at around 1:00 o'clock. It also had plenty of juice when connected to a Ampeg 8 ohm 2-10 cab. So, clearly Agedhorse hit it right on the money, when he suggested that my Washburn X102 bass might have insufficient output to properly drive the amp's input. I suppose this means I have to get a new bass; as if I needed a rationale! Is anyone successfully using a Lakland Skyline Hollowbody, or a Ric, with a Shuttle 6.0 without issues? Those are two which interest me. And, a proper bass cab is obviously in the cards, too. Anyway, many, many thanks to Agedhorse from Genz-Benz, and to Rick, for your helpful advice. You may now count me among the Genz-Benz faithful! I'll check w/Music123, and with Genz-Benz service regarding the lack of a warranty registration card - not sure if I need it or not in case of future warranty issues, and my package didn't come with one. Jeff
Hi Jeff You can register your warranty at the Genz Benz website http://www.genzbenz.com/?fa=warrantycard All the best!
i may have missed some of the details here, but it's kinda hard to believe the output signal from your bass is that weak not to work properly. wouldn't a simple outboard preamp solve that issue if you like your bass? i've played tons of different basses through my genz heads and never had too weak of an input signal problem...
There are a few basses that have extremely low output level pickups. It could also be that the bass is not set up properly and the pole height is too high which can cause the same symptoms. An external preamp is one solution. A nicer bass is another... always a good excuse to go shopping