I had a set of Ernie Ball Regular coateds on a Squier P-bass for about 3 months. Aside from the intonation, nothing on the bridge had been touched. They settled in good, but I noticed they felt very stiff and hard to play on. So, I noticed my action was awfully high. Upon lowering the D-string by about a millimeter, I played one note.
And then...
SNAP.
But instead of like most strings, and breaking near the headstock, nooo. This set decided to break on the "ball" end.
That's where the little bead used to be, to keep it locked in the bridge. They were regular gauge, .105-.050, in Standard tuning. The bass was a little flat, so I tuned it back into Standard. when I played the open D, CRACK. I heard a loud "ping" off my bedroom wall, and the string flopped out of the bridge. I have no idea what happened, but this is the third set of Ernie Ball's I've had since last year in which I've had a problem with a string breaking.
Moral of the story: I'm not using EB's ever again. For the price of the coated strings, I could just pay a little extra and get a set of Cleartones that last me a year, like the ones that were on my ATK.
And then...
SNAP.
But instead of like most strings, and breaking near the headstock, nooo. This set decided to break on the "ball" end.
That's where the little bead used to be, to keep it locked in the bridge. They were regular gauge, .105-.050, in Standard tuning. The bass was a little flat, so I tuned it back into Standard. when I played the open D, CRACK. I heard a loud "ping" off my bedroom wall, and the string flopped out of the bridge. I have no idea what happened, but this is the third set of Ernie Ball's I've had since last year in which I've had a problem with a string breaking.
Moral of the story: I'm not using EB's ever again. For the price of the coated strings, I could just pay a little extra and get a set of Cleartones that last me a year, like the ones that were on my ATK.