Singlecut Update

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Greg Johnsen, May 20, 2007.

  1. Angus

    Angus Supporting Member

    Apr 16, 2000
    Palo Alto, CA
    Wait, sorry, I just noticed this- I don't mean to seem like I'm bagging on you- I'm just curious.

    How do you plan to use magnets for this? It'll be a royal b**ch to take a fully sealed, flush-mounted cover off that's held on by magnets unless the magnets are so weak that you can shake the cover off. Are you going to glue magnets to the cover and the sides of the cavity? Do you have a plan to facilitate removal?

    Also, for what it's worth, I'm a hobbyist who has never built his own bass, so my comments relative to someone like Wilser, Musiclogic, FBB, Msherman, and the other real luthiers who post here shouldn't mean much. I have, however, just done about everything known to man to modify my instruments from changing number of strings, retopping/refretboarding, reprofiling necks (width and thickness), adding 2nd control cavities, loads of electronic work, and all that. But, really, I am by no means a luthier, so take my comments as you may!
     
  2. I'm using magnet held battery covers on my new basses. It works great! All you need is small cut out to be able to lift the thing off. It doesn't shake off and it's a very strong hold with quick access. Another way is to put small holes on the cover that you can lift it off from, like Dingwall does.
     
  3. Angus

    Angus Supporting Member

    Apr 16, 2000
    Palo Alto, CA
    Yeah, that's basically what I was asking. I can see that it wouldn't be a problem with a cutout, but that was why I mentioned the "fully sealed" bit. Not that it's a problem- I was just curious! :)
     
  4. Greg Johnsen

    Greg Johnsen

    May 1, 2005
    Hickory NC
    Yah, I'm going to make a little dig out for a finger to pull off the cover. Trust me, that IS something I planned ;)

    Greg
     
  5. throbgod13

    throbgod13

    Mar 26, 2005
    Texas
    it looks really nice..
     
  6. DanielM

    DanielM

    Jan 6, 2007
    Holland
    with a bit of fiddling you'll be fine, I'm sure that by bringing in the string sapcing on the bridge and adjusting the spacing at the nut slightly will make it work just fine. think of this as a good opportunity to prove your metal as a builder, fix this without it being obviously fixed and you'll be well on your way!

    and Wilser, lighten up man it's his first build, I'm sure you made some screw up on your first build, or did everybody laugh at you when you learning to ride a bike and fell over the first time?
     

  7. You don't know the history Greg and I have. I am not laughing or making fun at him. So, sit back and take a chill pill, buddy.
     
  8. Greg Johnsen

    Greg Johnsen

    May 1, 2005
    Hickory NC
    Yah, wils and I have had alot of talks about basses and luthrie, so it's just his thing to make sure sh*t doesn't happen again.

    Working this weekend! Wooh! Hopefully I'll get this thing up and running and can actually get some cash for more wood!

    Greg
     
  9. Angus

    Angus Supporting Member

    Apr 16, 2000
    Palo Alto, CA
    More wood? Doesn't this thing needs less wood? :p
     
  10. Greg Johnsen

    Greg Johnsen

    May 1, 2005
    Hickory NC
    lol, so I can start a fretless 6 when this is done (ooh, holly and flame maple. I sense alot of money being spent in my future)
     
  11. DanielM

    DanielM

    Jan 6, 2007
    Holland
    that's fine, was just having a bad day, in the middle of finals right now which is causing even more delays in my current build which due to health issues and intermittent exams has made it that it's been going for nearly a year now... that aside I was just annoyed seeing your, what I percieved, as laughing at him. sorry about that. hope my suggestion was any help to you.
     
  12. Angus

    Angus Supporting Member

    Apr 16, 2000
    Palo Alto, CA
    Holly? Have fun with that one.
     
  13. Greg Johnsen

    Greg Johnsen

    May 1, 2005
    Hickory NC
    where have I been!? Well, my neighbor is finally doing well enough to work in the shop again, so we're meeting about once a week or so, I don't want to push him too hard and have his health go to hell after what he's already been through.

    Some updates though.

    Because I want to do everything right, and make this project something that I can use and love everyday, I've scrapped the old neck due to some trussrod related issues... and now I have a new neck (thanks to Todd) and it looks awesome (pics up later). Its bubinga and flame maple, so it looks great, and I made sure to order lots of extra for play room. This time through, I'm going to:

    -Put trussrods closer to the center of the neck (almost touching really)
    -Take my time carving the neck, so its consistent (wasn't a huge deal last time, but it couldn't hurt to do it)
    -Make it a fretless (I'm thinking bubinga for the fingerboard with curly maple binding and lines, but I'm up to suggestions for that
    -do the more traditional style heel for a singlecut (spent alot of time looking at how wilser does his and I think it'll work out)
    -measure thrice before I dice
    -measure again to be sure
    -plan ahead and make sure everything is on track
    -make new pickup covers based on the tutorials I saw
    -make sure string spacing is correct
    -have fun

    if anyone would like to add, please do so!

    Also, I will of course take any and all constructive criticism to heart and try my best to make this the best first project it can be.

    Thanks guys


    Greg
     
  14. Hey Greg! nice to see you're back at it and with a lot more experience in your pocket to make it work better. One thing I want to suggest to make sure the neck profile is correct is to print out and make templates using fretfind. Print them out using regular 8.5x11 and tape them up, glue it to a piece of MDF or masonite (1/4" works great) and use that to mark up your blank. It's a sure way to hit the nail in the head without much guess work or calculations ...just make sure you use the fretfind parameters correctly and you're set!

    For the thickness of the neck shoot for about 5/8 at the 1st fret and 3/4 at the 24th fret WITHOUT the fingerboard, then carve that making sure you keep the initial center thickness. You really don't need to use 2 truss rods, use one and minimize your problems.

    Hope this helps, really looking forward to see how it turns out ...you just learned that effing up is the best way to become a great repair/mod man ;)
     
  15. Greg Johnsen

    Greg Johnsen

    May 1, 2005
    Hickory NC
    ok, well after reading, and re-reading Hiscock's book, especially the bass chapter, I think I've figured out I want to shape the neck for the best results (correct me if I'm wrong).

    With those measurements (5/8 and 3/4), Could I use a band saw and cut out the basic shape of the neck, so if the neck was sitting on it's side, it'd be the profile of the shape, then contour the width of the neck (taper) to those final measurements. after tapering, could I draw a centerline down the back of the neck with pencil or something that will show up clearly, and use that line to guide my carving, so I know it is even on both sides (btw, I love shaping the neck with the rotary grinding tool and the fine grinder attachment).

    How would you suggest carving the volute? should I leave extra room where the scarf joint is, and just carve it down to the shape I like?

    Thanks, and I love the help, I'm glad you chimed in wilser, hopefully everything will go right this time.

    Greg
     
  16. Greg Johnsen

    Greg Johnsen

    May 1, 2005
    Hickory NC
    update, but no pics, sorry.

    Worked in the shop for a good 4 hours or so today, which was nice because I love being down there, and I'm working again tomorrow so I'll get even more progress going on.

    We got the neck glued up, square, and ready to be routed, tapered, cut, and glued in.

    However, I did have a question about cutting the neck profile on the bottom on a singlecut. Should I cut it like I would on a double cut, or is there something special about a singlecut?

    Also, We are not angling the neck in the body, so I'm a little worried about the pride height. I do plan to countersink the hipshot A an 1/8 of an inch, and then have the neck raise up out of the body a little (as seen on ibanez SR neck through basses). Do you guys think this will be enough to work with for good string height on a fretless or should I do something else?

    more updates, pics, questions tomorrow

    thanks

    Greg