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Sire Bass Club!

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by dinodino, Mar 31, 2015.

  1. Bright Metallic Red/ Ash

    16 vote(s)
  2. Bright Metallic Red/ Alder

    33 vote(s)
  3. Natural/ Ash

    172 vote(s)
  4. Sunburst/ Ash

    104 vote(s)
  5. Sunburst/ Alder

    163 vote(s)
  6. White/ Ash

    86 vote(s)
  7. White/ Alder

    122 vote(s)
  8. Black/ Alder

    103 vote(s)
  9. M3

    28 vote(s)
  10. M7

    84 vote(s)
  11. I'm a heretic - I don't own one yet, but I'll see the light soon enough!

    243 vote(s)
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. jlepre

    jlepre Supporting Member

    Nov 12, 2007
    Cedar Knolls, NJ
    Who would.want black dots on a dark brown piece of wood?
  2. Typo: white of course
    organworthyplayer337 and jlepre like this.
  3. mmbass21

    mmbass21 Supporting Member

    Dec 10, 2016
    I'm confused, does the V10 have white or black side dots?
    organworthyplayer337 likes this.
  4. Only Marcus Miller knows
    mmbass21 likes this.
  5. jlepre

    jlepre Supporting Member

    Nov 12, 2007
    Cedar Knolls, NJ
    Mine has black, but I found one person who has White. I had to paint mine white.
    mmbass21 likes this.
  6. intrglctcrevfnk


    Aug 19, 2007
    Sire p7 checking in! My wife got for me last Christmas, has become my favorite bass (especially for slapping). I did take the Lakland out on a blues band tour this summer. Made a few songs with the MM p7 the last few weeks if you’d like to check them out!

    She’s a beaut- it’s my first maple neck bass and first p-style pickup:
  7. LetItGrowTone


    Apr 2, 2019
    V3 2nd Gen bridge problem, continued:
    Closer look:
    Removed the bridge.
    Verified a little of the above, that the forearm contour starts a little under *this* bridge (more about another bridge later); it begins just before where that rear top screw is. That is, it intrudes just a little into the bridge mounting area.

    But noticed a bigger factor: the bottom of the durn bridge isn't flat! Explanation: The sheet steel appears to be stamped hard to make those tracks that the saddle height adjustment screws ride in. This appears to deform the bottom of the baseplate under those tracks. There *is* some grinding on the bottom to flatten it, but not enough. Testing it with a steel straight edge in various directions, I guess I now blame this bridge more than I blame that forearm contour.

    More: There's an impression of these bridge deformities into the finish. It is possible that if the bridge had been mounted earlier while the finish was even softer, OR, if the finish were even thicker, that these irregularites would have been mushed out. So maybe I just got a worst-case instance.

    The "Fender Vintage Bass Bridge" (with the "threaded rod" saddles) is 5.5mm narrower (in the E string to G string direction), 6.8mm shorter (in the pickup to strap button direction). The baseplate is about 1 mm thinner and the whole thing weighs 82.5g vs. 135.5g. Just info.
    It's easy to find a flat spot for this smaller bridge, and considering where I expect my strings to intonate it could be moved forward a little to get farther away from the string-through holes. (The new mounting screws would miss these holes but I'd rather get a little farther away.) But the string-through holes would be visible behind the bridge. Don't care much but don't want to feel like a slob if I can do better, so I'm considering filling the string-through holes. I guess glued and pressed in hardwood dowels would be nice. Diameter (measured by pushing in the shank of a 7/32 inch drill bit) should be about 7/32 or 5.5mm. If I could do this well (if the dowels fit tightly), then I would feel better about driving the new mounting screws a little close to these dowels. Then the dowels could remain hidden under the bridge. The front two old mounting screw holes would also be hidden but not the back two.

    I thank Andyman001 and Papuzzo for their advice. Trouble is, I want this V3, THIS one.

    I have a .5 degree wedge neck shim on the way, to let the saddles down a little. Might as well do it now.
  8. A shim on the way? What does that mean?
  9. LetItGrowTone


    Apr 2, 2019
    I ordered a neck shim, to place between the neck and body, that is shaped like a wedge with an angle of .5 degrees. It will let me lower the saddles a little. Like this: StewMac Neck Shims for Bass | stewmac.com

    Since I'm not certain of the size and shape required, I ordered an unfinished one.
  10. Papuzzo


    Dec 11, 2017
    Milan, Italy
    I would suggest taking the bass to a very good luthier and let him do whatever is necessary to get the bass to 100%. Then send a copy of the bill to Sire as I am reasonably confident that they will pay for the repairs.
    LetItGrowTone likes this.
  11. LetItGrowTone


    Apr 2, 2019
    Does switching to passive also definitely disconnect the battery, or must the cord also be unplugged?
  12. jlepre

    jlepre Supporting Member

    Nov 12, 2007
    Cedar Knolls, NJ
    No, Cord must be unplugged. Switching to passive has no effect on draining the battery.
    LetItGrowTone likes this.
  13. I did get a resolution and forgot to update the post. I got a €40 refund (not amazing but I'm alright with that) to avoid having to send it back, wait for the new bass etc. Anyway, it kicks ass.
    Oly Spart and a-37 like this.
  14. joemer


    Sep 25, 2008
    New Hampshire
    Does anyone know what gauge strings the 4 string P7 is shipped with ? I know they are D’Addario XL’s but I could not find the gauge when I did a thread search. They feel like a lighter gauge, maybe .100 on the E string? Thanks.
  15. jmjames


    Dec 15, 2017
    Regular light. The fuchsia package.

  16. joemer


    Sep 25, 2008
    New Hampshire
    Thanks J.Ja
  17. Oly Spart

    Oly Spart

    May 20, 2015
    Canary Islands
    We have to recognize that Thomann have very good attitude with their customers.
    dirtychinchilla and downunder like this.
  18. Finally understanding the VV7. The under wound pickups make it an excellent blank slate for tone shaping, via the preamp. My gen one V7 is much heavier in tone but not output. Slight preamp changes can seem extreme on gen 1 V7, where on the gen 2 VV7, things get really interesting when I start turning knobs. In passive, it reminds me of my 60's classic 4 string. When I play live, it's mostly reggae and I immediately dial out ALL tone, crank bass and "mek de people dem feel it!". Some of my best live tone was from a passive 60's type jazz. Anyway, rehearsals should start soon and I'm eager to try the VV7 because my last maple fb bass (SB5000) was beautiful but didn't deliver. I was told, the bass wasn't "deep enough" lol.
    I mention all of this because I've recently heard good clips of the gen 2, V7 and it sounds like it's voiced in between the Vintage and the gen 1 V7. Sounds very Atelier-ish and I simply must have one! I'm an alder guy and I'm wondering if they are coming in any lighter in weight than the ash. Would they find me a light one if I asked nicely or is it a crap shoot?
  19. If you’re looking for a good reggae tone, don’t overlook the P7 model. You can get really deep with it, especially with the Sire preamp.
  20. Thanks. I thought of this as well but there's just something about the reverse P style that appeals to me more. There's a video of me playing my former SR655 and it was the best sounding PJ I've tried. Reversing the P gave a tighter bottom and thicker high end. Unfortunately, the pre died and the neck twisted within 30 days. I returned it for a new Warwick RB which was great until it needed a truss rod adjustment...at which time the rod snapped immediately. Both of these basses were more expensive than the V7. Judging by the P7 clips that I've heard, I would have to try one in person.

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