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Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by dinodino, Mar 31, 2015.
Home sweet home!!!
Are there any tricks to combating neck dive on a P7?
Leather strap with unfinished back. I prefer leather straps with a natural unfinished (rough not smooth) back, I like the friction that minimizes or prevents neck dive. I avoid smooth nylon web straps that slide along my shirt.
This works for me. I’ll bet 50% of the players out there prefer a strap that doesn’t grip their shirt.
This is a double-edged sword -- rough back works OK when the shirt is buttoned up or otherwise well-fitted. But boy, when you have a t-shirt and an unbuttoned camp shirt...
Posted in the M7 club, but not here... my new M7 6. Topical, I have a leather strap that I've found combats neck dive nicely on most bases. M7 very nicely balanced though.
Can you recommend which capacitor to go with? I also would like to leave room in the future to change the pickups as well.
I used .047uFd on two of my Sires and am very happy with results. They are a V7 nd a V3 so not P-style. But the .047 is an old Fender standard so IMHO that should get you closest to an old Fender.
Thanks, that solved it.
Get a 27nF and solder it parallel to the existing 22nF. That totals to 49nF and gets you very close to the 47nF which 7ender normally uses.
I didn't know they worked like that. Good to know that adding the values equals the sum total in resistance. Makes sense, but good to know !
With resistance (measured in Ohm) it does not work like this. Capacitors are specified by their capacitance, measured in Farad (F).
Yeah, resistors and capacitors work opposite in parallel - with resistors, adding another in parallel decreases resistance, but with capacitors in parallel, adding another increases capacitance. Funny how that works, but kinda makes sense if you think about it.
Oh, OK, I don't know that stuff, even though I had to memorize the color code for two soldering jobs in the 80's and 90's, but I never learned WHAT they do.
For those following my saga, Lobster helped me to confirm that during the tone cap swap process at some point, a wire became disconnected from my output jack. Hence the no signal. So a different friend is going to help me solder that back together tomorrow night, and then I'll hopefully finally be able to hear the .47 tone cap, and will of course report back.
. . . And then I'm going to learn how to solder for myself.
A VERY handy skill. I suck at it myself.
Especially since I will likely swap the pickups at some point too, I might as well learn. I’ve been playing for 30+ years and never bothered to learn how to fix my own stuff (at least not to solder).
Definitely a few things to be known. Start with your buddy who did the work, and check some youtubes -- bound to be a million of 'em.
Yeah, my buddy who did the tone swap talked me through what he was doing. It didn't look terribly complicated. But I'm sure it's like anything else. There's a right and wrong way to do it, and having the right tool(s) for the job will help. He had a ton of practice. He and his dad are always making things. Like, they made their own battery packs for things and strings of led lights, etc.
Soldering is VERY easy. You'll pick it up quickly. Just heat the surface with the iron first for a tiny bit, then feed it solder. Simple as that. Buy the solder with flux in it, which most solder rolls have, anyway.
Also, buy a solder sucker. It looks like a big pen. It's soldering in reverse to remove / redo solder joints.
Also, get a good soldering iron, like a Weller.
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