"Slap strings"

Hello dude!

I suppose you want a bright, snappy sound on a fast-playing set of strings? I'd recommend a set of stainless steel strings (bright sound), with rather thin gauge (faster and easier playing). Which one should I pick, you might say, since there are dozens of models out there? I'd say, just go try one - if you don't like it, toss it and try another one next time. The only way to find the set of strings you like the most is to try them all!

And, FYI: The NS/4 is USA made and Korean NS2000 Spectors have passive pickups.

 

The battery is powering your preamp (the knobs that cut and boost different frequencies). Here are the possible pickup and preamp configs:

passive pickups and a passive preamp (a Fender P or J for example)

passive pickups and an active preamp (Musicman Stingray and your bass are examples)

active pickups and active preamp (American and Czech Spectors.. most Modulus's I think)

or even active pickups and a passive preamp (though I don't know of any production bass with a setup like this).

Active means battery powered. A passive preamp can only cut treble (as far as I know), but an active preamp can cut or boost many bands of frequencies. I don't feel that I know the ins and outs of passive/active pickups enough to comment on them.

 

There's no such thing as a passive preamp(lifier).
When you amplify a signal with an electronic circuit you need electric energy from a power source, which makes it active by definition.
Active just means that a circuit has or needs a power supply.

A passive bass has just a volume pot, maybe a pickup switch or blend pot and a passive tone pot.

 

Sorry about the bad terminology. I just figured that anything modifying the signal before the power amp was considered a preamp.

 

Actaully there is such thing as a passive preamp. They are favored by some audiophile types in hifi. As far as electric bass boes though, when you talk about having a preamp people assume you have an active bass.
http://www.marchandelec.com/pr41.htm

 

DR Lo Riders or DR Fat Beams

I like the Lo Riders better, they have bass and lower mid emphasis. The Fat Beams don't emphasize the lower frequencies as much, but are still focused in the midranges. They are just a tad brighter than the Lo Riders as well.

The Lo Riders are a little higher in tension, the Fat Beams are not as tight, and likely a bit more flexible. Some people like DR High Beams too. I like the Lo Riders because they have a meaty sound, the 'Beam' strings sound too thin for my tastes. That is to say, I've grown accustomed to the sound and playability of the Lo Riders, so I don't think I could ever be happy with the others.

 

IMHO.. I think for "Slapping" (Which I love to do) try DR Hi Beams.. I love them.. especially for the high strings. They give a nice twang when you pop on those strings..

I'm gonna probably custom order DR strings with a set of LoRiders + HiBeams.. as in 50% LoRiders and 50% HiBeams

2 lower strings = LoRiders
2 higher strings = HiBeams



Give the HiBeam and LoRiders a try.. they are both good strings.. both have their pros/cons of their own(or so when i tried them out)