Just note that many players who claim to be able to hear a speaker straining from too much power can’t actually hear this until the damage has happened. This is especially true if overdrive or distortion effects are being used. The biggest cause of damage is unreasonable expectations of a rig’s performance followed by an accident (such as a plug becoming partially unplugged) in a rig with more power than a speaker can handle.
I used the Reidmar 750 (still my main head - LOVE it) with an Aguilar GS112 as a main rig for a few years. I had absolutely no issues with that setup - I just kept a keen eye on the master volume. I now have an Epi UL 210 and a Tecamp M212 (both 4 ohm), and I still have yet to go past 9:00 on the master. Such a powerful amp.
I don't know anyone who runs their amps flat out, or pushes their cabs to the theoretical limit, but if you do either of those things then, apart from running the risk of breaking your gear and not sounding good, you'll need more drivers. If you run a rig at sensible volumes then your 750 watt amp into a 300 watt 112 should be fine.
Side question... if I blow out a cabinet with too many watts, does just the speaker get damaged or are there other electrical components that get damaged as well? I know this is probably a dumb question.
Ampslut is right. Just don't turn it up too high. If you do, you'll know in one microsecond that you have to back off on the output volume from the amp. The speaker will let you know.
Not sure of this is an option for you, however, it's cost effective and if you have a modeling pedal or preamp laying around (or run a DI from your pedal board) this could be a great option... On clearance for just $249 new!!! 650W RMS/1300 peak & just 29 lbs! Anyway, the reviews pretty much said that for a lightweight, PA speaker, that these put out a LOT of lows (hence the name "thump"). Figured for the money, why not give it a shot. Will let you know how this works out. Link to clearance ($249): Mackie Thump12A 12 Thump12A 12" Powered Loudspeaker Specifications: Speaker Configuration Active/passive: Active Type: 2-way LF driver: 12” MF driver: Not applicable HF driver: 1.4“ titanium Power Amplifier class: D Wattage: 650W RMS/1300 peak Mixer/preamp: Yes Audio Frequency response: 50Hz–23kHz Coverage pattern: 90° x 60° Max SPL: 125 dB Wireless and Streaming Dedicated app: Not applicable Bluetooth: Not applicable Inputs XLR: 1 TRS: 1 TS: Not applicable RCA: Not applicable SPEAKON: Not applicable Outputs XLR: Thru (M) TRS: Not applicable TS: Not applicable RCA: Not applicable SPEAKON: Not applicable Enclosure Cabinet material: Molded Width: 14.5" Height: 23.5" Depth: 12.4" Weight: 29 lb.
If I was going small I'd start here. Magellan 350 - Genzler Amplification Nu Classic 112T - Genzler Amplification
I still own and use a D210XLT and a D410XLT. I've owned them for years and they still sound great. That said, the D410XLT parks itself at our drummers house and the D210XLT stays at a different band's guitarist's house. They don't move much. Interestingly, I will be using the D210XLT at an outdoor gig at the end of the month. After rehearsal at the said guitarist's house, I packed it up and sent it with him for use at the upcoming venue. Still debating whether I will need FOH support or not. I use an Eden Traveler amp with it and it is pretty darn loud. Game time decision. Bones
That’s not a bad idea at all. I’ve been using the Melvin Lee Davis preamp from NUX and that might just be what I need!
True story: Years ago I walked into a music store and some guy was playing guitar into a Marshall stack on full tilt. That amp was screaming!! The grills were removed and one of the speakers had a hole in it. I said to the guy, "are you gonna replace that speaker?" His response, "What difference does it make?"
This is my small rig... 19 pound cabinet, 6 pound head, 8 ohm cab. The D-800+ puts out 400W at 8 Ohms, which is comfortable. Freakin' loud too. The cabinet is a GR Bass cabinet, mentioned above.
Generally just the low frequency driver, though the tweeter can also be damaged under some conditions. Nope, my experience (from 40 years of designing and servicing commercial speaker products) is that most (by a large amount) players can’t hear a speaker being damaged until it’s too late.