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Solder my own or buy cable kit to clean up my pedalboard?

Discussion in 'Effects [BG]' started by Hoyt, Jan 12, 2018.


  1. 7399CE3B-A0DE-4DDF-91A1-157814527B8A. Well, I finally figured out what order I like all of my effects in and now comes the tedious task of cleaning up the wiring on my board.

    I can solder, so I was wondering if for reliability and longevity I should just buy some Mogami cable and some pancake ends, or get some sort of cable kit where I can customize cable lengths and ends.

    Here’s a pic of my setup. I plan on using this with both my bass guitars and my uprights (hence all of the preamping/HPF).
    I’d really like to tidy her up.

    Thoughts?

    Oh, signal chain is bass>Grace Designs BiX>effects loop out>FDeck HPF>Nocturne Jr. Barnyard (light dirt)>Rothwell Love Squeeze compressor clone>Malekko Scrutator>TC Electronic Sub n’ Up>Way Huge Swollen Pickle>Boss CEB-3 bass chorus>Boss BF-3 Flanger>Dunlop 105Q wah> Boss DD-5 Delay>TC Electronic Ditto Looper>Iron Ether Xerograph (Ernie Ball stereo volume pedal as an expression pedal)>Nocturne Bass Brain>return of Grace Designs BiX
     
  2. Alien8

    Alien8

    Jan 29, 2014
    It's a lot of work to solder, but they do last longer if you do a good job. I personally have never had an issue with solderless kits, but I also don't travel regularly. I have a mix on my board now of George Ls, Planet Waves, and some soldered pancake George L cable.

    EBS flat cables are all the rage at the moment for space saving. If you want clean and organized, go soldered or solderless.

    For some of your really short runs, you will probably find the solderless to be a great solution.
     
    Hoyt likes this.
  3. Cost is also a factor. I saw the George L kit at GC for $70, but I’d probably need two of them.

    I wonder if it’d be cheaper/better to buy 25’ of Mogami and the pancake ends?

    Not sure how much I’ll gig with this board, but if the opportunity arises I don’t want to have to worry about it too much.
     
  4. cataract

    cataract Supporting Member

    Feb 14, 2007
    Richmond, VA
    I picked up a set of 5 mogami / pancake cables of varying lengths from a fellow TB'er and they're really great. What's cool is that if you don't feel like making them yourself they usually pop up in the classifieds here for a good price and they're also available piecemeal on retailer sites-- just bought a 20" cable to stretch from one end of my board to the other.
    Depending on how clean you want your board to look (and how much time you want to spend on making your own), I'd say look online for the exact lengths you need. A few sellers on Amazon even do custom lengths to your specifications.
     
    Hoyt likes this.
  5. Dave W

    Dave W

    Mar 1, 2007
    White Plains
    I went from George L's to custom soldered (by yours truly) and won't go back.

    I had really good luck with George L's. They were easy to make but in the end they were not as reliable and I did have cable issues at the gig from my board being moved around.
    I switched to Canare GS6 and Switchraft pancake ends, sold my George L kits to make up the difference, and haven't had a single problem in like 5 years.
     
    Hoyt likes this.
  6. This is the direction I’m leaning.

    There are so many other variable that can go wrong at a gig, I really want to keep things as dependable as possible.
     
    cataract likes this.
  7. Dave W

    Dave W

    Mar 1, 2007
    White Plains
    The biggest downside is that it's tedious to make all of the cables from scratch, but you get a better product in the end IMO.
     
    Ba55Man1ac and Hoyt like this.
  8. Ba55Man1ac

    Ba55Man1ac Gold Supporting Member

    Apr 22, 2004
    Sydney, Australia
    Agree with @Dave W: Canare (I like GS-4 for patches) + Neutrik/Switchcraft/Amphenol + a good soldering iron = quiet, reliable cables.

    View attachment 2873916
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
    Hoyt likes this.

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