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Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by Matteo Marziali, Jun 13, 2012.
Someone is able to recognize these caps?
The capacitance code is unreadable.
But could they have the same capacitance?
Could they? yes.
Do they? What do they say on them?
Only way to know for sure is to unsolder and measure them.
Why are you wanting to know? is it not working?
I just found this pic on web, and i wonder how it works...
The cap on the switch should be a low-pass filter (treble defeat)...
Yes, the capacitor is parallel to the signal, so it functions as a low pass filter.
And if they were hypothetically 0.47, their capacitance would be added (0.94) or what?
0.47uF is an order of magnitude too high for the average signal impedance in a bass. You want 0.047uF, or somewhere in that general range.
That's a killswitch only. The capacitor will always run parallel when the signal is audible.
0.047uF of course!
And should this wiring works with two 0.047uF caps, or should you use a different values?
I don't see the point in this, and I would venture to guess that someone miswired the bass.
A 0.047uF cap parallel to the signal at all times will mean you will always have a very dull tone.
Perhaps it would be a better idea to add a capacitance selection switch for the tone pot, and skip the hardwired treble-cut. Perhaps 0.0235uF/0.047uF/0.94uF would be more useful. That can be done with two 0.047uFs and a DPDT On-On-On switch.
The cap in the bottom is sold to a switch, so it can be used or not. So, using the tone pot and the switch, should be possible to have a capacitance from 0 to 0.94uF (if the value of those caps are 0.047uF). Isn't it?
About a miswiring i think it's NOT possible! Can you recognize the shape of the control cover? It's a CT...
They look like typical "green chicklets" from Radio Shack.
Is the switch a DPDT with center off?
Looking at the way the switch is wired, if it has a center off, the switch could be used as a switched in cap for extra treble bleed to ground with the bat one way (pointed towards jack), normal operation in the center, and a kill switch with the bat the other way (pointed away from jack).
Yes, it should be this way.
I don't see much use to the arrangement unless the switch is center off. If it is, then it makes sense. The photo is not clear enough to say for certain that they are the same size but they are likely to be. They are once common metalized mylar capacitors. In the center off position you have a normal tone control. One way is a kill switch the other way sets in the extra tone cap plus as much more as you dial in with the pot/normal tone cap setting. It is anyone's guess what the cap value is. If the objective was to go very dark then they may both be 0.047. If the objective was to brighten up they may both be 0.022, but almost any values are possible from that photo.
They are polyester caps. The number is 2A103K or 104K which is either 0.01uf or 0.1uf. I enlarged and upped contrast
the best I could but it was hard to tell 100%. Either would work, but the 0.1 would be bassier for sure and a .01 would be a much more subtle high cut. The center is normal tone control action. One position throws the extra cap in full time with the tone adding more cut. Other position is mute to ground. It is a Carl Thompson afterall and that's his standard passive control layout.
Like in a spy movie!!