soundproofing question

Discussion in 'Recording Gear and Equipment [BG]' started by mikgag, Oct 12, 2005.

  1. mikgag

    mikgag Guest

    Mar 25, 2002
    What would be more beneficial??

    1) using 2 layers of sheetrock on a normal frame-up.

    2) using 1 layer of sheetrock, but adding an extra 2x4 on top of the studs add an extra 2" of air space.

    afterwards, either selection will be covered with 2'x4' acoustic ceiling tiles
  2. SuperDuck


    Sep 26, 2000
    The second option should help more. Generally speaking, the larger the airspace you can afford to have, the better off you will be.
  3. el_Kabong


    Jul 11, 2005
    I don't think just increasing the dead air space will do anything for you. The sound will simply traverse the extra 2" unimpeded. One of the most useful books for DIY building I've seen is "Building a recording studio" by Jeff Cooper, isbn 0-916899-00-4. All sorts of practical building advice with db reduction ratings for various designs. Floors, walls, ceilings, windows, gobos, bass traps.... If you can find a copy don't think twice, grab it. It's been a while since I did it but I built an iso booth with 16mm sheetrock (gyprock here in Oz) on both sides and the cavity stuffed with a dense fibreglass. It's about a 30db reduction and works well. Don't forget you have to take care of the doors and windows too or it's a waste of your time.
  4. SuperDuck


    Sep 26, 2000
    The sound will travel through the AIR unimpeded (though air does have _some_ impedance), yes, but there is not one but two impedance changes that occur as the sound transfers from one medium to the other, and that's where the benefit is. I'm at work right now - when I get home I can put up some math to illustrate. (Time to dig out the 'ol papers. :D)

    Also, the ceiling tiles will add more absorption within the room, reducing the severity and amount of reflections, but will only add a minimal amount of soundproofing due to their mass. You're on the ball by attacking this with wall construction, though.

    Are you going to have any windows to adjacent rooms?
  5. mikgag

    mikgag Guest

    Mar 25, 2002

    that's what I thought....and it's cheaper :D

    there is 1 window in the room now, but I'm going to put 2" styrofoam in it and cover it with 3/4" chipboard or plywood (outside) and then that window will be covered by the sheetrock on the inside.
  6. Droog


    Aug 14, 2003
    Also keep in mind that the routes you have mentioned won't effect the low end as much as the highs. You need something dense to really put the stop to it. Like most of us though, concrete is probably out of the question. Wish I had a solution, but I have done a similiar construction and that is what I had to deal with. Maybe you could drop something solid in that 2" space, probably would do you more good than air. Just my 2cents.

    Also, as I am sure you realize, make you whoever you ask about this kind of stuff knows that you are talking about soundproofing as apposed to acoustic treatment for the room in question. Some people can't differentiate.
  7. Dugz Ink

    Dugz Ink

    Oct 23, 2005
    There is some good info on the Auralex site, including wall construction tips. ( Of course, they want you to buy thier stuff, but you're not required to do that.
  8. INTP


    Nov 28, 2003
    Dallas, TX
    3) use the extra 2x4's but stagger them so they are not touching. Then use a different thickness drywall on each side of the 2x4's (e.g. use 1/2" on one, and 5/8" on the other). The different drywall thickness will have different resonant frequencies, so sound transmitted by one side will be absorbed by the other. A plywood layer and a drywall layer will also work.

    3a) instead of the staggered wood, use metal studs for the extra space. The metal studs act as springs and will also decouple the inside and outside panels.
  9. TGforPlywood


    Sep 29, 2005
    Ringwood, NJ
    We all wish we could have a pro level room to practice in. THE BASEMENT:You don't want to piss off the relatives upstairs. Of course you're going use soundproofing/insulation in any of the wall framing and in the ceiling. Don't even think about skipping that part. Then, use plywood on the ceiling, the thicker the better. Not particle board, plywood! Then finish the ceiling with perforated ceiling tile (married guy), or carpet(single guy). Engaged guy has mixture of carpet and tile. You can staple or glue it up. (either way you get to use a nifty tool) Don't cover every thing! Leave yourself some reflective surfaces to send the natural sound of your bass back to you. I like wood, Tongue and groove planking works well. Again the thicker the better. Be sure and plywood those walls before you sheet rock or carpet or whatever you do to the walls. You want a 100% coverage for sound and it gaurantees every screw will hit.
    If you're lucky enough to have the extra height cover that concrete floor. They make these special particle boards and plywood for the floor with little rubber like "nubbies" on one side.($). Me I like plywood. The Thicker the better. Then carpet over that. Replace all those hollow wood doors with solid-core doors. Thick curtains work well, plus they leave with the ability to tune the room by exposing more/less reflective surface. I like "movers" blankets. You don't need to use plywood, but whatever you use it should be thick AND dense. If you're in a structure with wooden floor joists (they support the floor) or an apartment with concrete, you're going to have different issues. If it's the down stairs neighbor you're concerned about why not try a few sheets of plywood and more carpet. Cut plywood into 12"/16" or 24" strips, cover them in carpet (or some high tech cloth that velcro sticks to) and hinge a few together. You can move them around and they're nor attached to the walls. You can make them as thick as you like by screwing a few together.

    It's not just for building basses anymore.
  10. Muzique Fann

    Muzique Fann Howzit brah

    Dec 8, 2003
    Kauai, HI
    here's how we did our little studio...
    we had existing walls that were already insulated and we put up Auralex Sheetbloc on top of that (not cheap, but works well)...then we used 'resilient channel' to give a little air gap (a few inches) and hung 5/8 drywall on that...then we applied acoustic tiles (auralex foam) on top of all that - wish we could have floated the whole floor but that just wasn't an option.