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speaker mounting in cabinets, what screws to use?

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Nigel Rahmshard, Jan 20, 2004.

  1. Nigel Rahmshard

    Nigel Rahmshard

    Jan 3, 2004
    This is kind of carried over from a different thread where people were discussing avatar speakers. One person felt the wood screws that were used from the factory cause rattles. One person prefered sheet metal screws. My ampeg uses small black wood screws.

    Does anyone have any preference? And, if so why is your method best?

    I'm just curious as i never even though about this. I just figured with like 10 screws a speaker, the screws wouldnt make much difference.

  2. ESP-LTD


    Sep 9, 2001
    Ideally, you use "T-Nuts". There is a backplate that fits in the hole and a machine screw screws into the front of it, pulling the plate into the wood (it has spikes on the back half). Once you screw it in once, the backplate stays and driver removal is easy; machines screws into steel backplates instead of wood screws chewing up the hole each time.

    All the Peavey's I have ever owned were assembled this way, and I suspect most others as well. This is one of the things that Avatar does to save money, since wood screws probably cost 2 cents and T-Nuts are more like 50 cents (and a lot more trouble to get assembled the first time).
  3. Jim Dombrowski

    Jim Dombrowski Supporting Member

    Jan 16, 2002
    Colorado Springs, CO
    The best solution is to drill all the way through the mounting board and install T-nuts in the back of the holes and use bolts to hold the speakers in place from the front.

    If you're not familiar with them, here's a link with some photos. You should be able to get them at any hardware store. Just make the sure the bolts you choose will fit through the holes in the speaker frame.

  4. notanaggie

    notanaggie Guest

    Sep 30, 2003
    Best? That would be so they don't fall out!

    Actually using screws into the wood is fine, as long as they go in far enough. The wood screw advantage is that they tend to stay in place.

    The t-nut is stronger overall, but if it starts to loosen it will usually come out eventually. The friction of the screw in the wood usually holds it in place against loosening. If in properly it is plenty strong enough, plus usually all the holes are used with woodscrews.

    I would not think they cause rattles. Only if the wood can't hold the screw and it loosens or falls out do you have a problem. Then you get air flowing past the basket, which sounds like a rattle sometimes.

    If wood screws are used, you can always put in a t-nut if the hole is wallered out when replacing the speaker.

    yeah, t-nuts have a good "story" to them, but screws in the wood are fine unless the cabinet is being hung over people
  5. Ok, maybe it is a bit more of theoratical discussion but screws in wood always will loosen after a while, depending on the tension caused by vibration etc. The problem is that the friction which the wood gives to the screw reduces under tension. Besides that the woud always dries in a bit.

    Never seen it as a real problem related to the fixing of speakers but if you have the choice...

    For that reason I would use T-nuts in combination with a washer and springwasher.
  6. I mount with 3/8" T-nuts and hex head bolts. I always use L-shaped brackets which contact the driver. This keeps the T-nuts farther back from the speaker hole and makes for a stronger mount. I put Loctite on the threads of the hex bolts.
  7. I use M5 (5mm) and M6 (6mm) stainless steel t-nuts and 40mm black anodised inbus bolts (inbus means inside hexagon). Their heads tend to be smaller than any other and have the least chance of inflicting damage to the press ring. I use polyurethane foam strips for gaskets.

    For tweeters and very small speakers, I use black M4 philips head bolts and matching t-nuts.
  8. Nice homepage Joris :)
  9. patrickj


    Aug 13, 2001
    Ellicott City, MD
    Endorsing: Spector Bass Guitars
    I use #10-32 tnuts and bolts. For smaller speakers (tweeters, mids - anything that doesn't have much excursion) I'll use 2 tnuts/bolts and the rest wood screws (per speaker). The idea is a sort of reinforced high-vibration avoidance type of thing, but whether or not it's practical, :confused:


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