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Speakon Biamping

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by DryWater'Bass, Oct 30, 2002.

  1. Ok, I don't get it, I know how you run a bi amp, Hi and low outputs of a Crossover to 2 power amps, to your high and low cabs....But how would you WIRE the cables for a bi amping done with a single speakon???
    Anything is appreciated
  2. lneal


    Apr 12, 2002
    Lee County, Alabama
    For 4-pole Speakons:

    1+ and 1- go to the low cabinet
    2+ and 2- go to the high cabinet

    You can get 4 conductor cables at electrical supply houses or Lowe's and Home Depot; some music stores will have it too. Types SO, SOW, SJ and SJW will work fine and are pretty tough. I use 12 or 14 gauge. You could also bundle up two "zip" cables.

    What equipment are you trying to connect?
  3. 4-pole Speakons are perfect for this. I run mine exactly as described above. I put a pair of Speakon jacks in every cabinet I build, so I can daisy chain from the sub cabinet to the high cab that sits on top of the sub using a short Speakon cable.

    www.speakerhole.com is a great place to buy 12 gauge, 4-conductor Speakon cabling for very aggressive pricing. I bought several cables from them already, and am entirely satisfied with the quality.

    When you wire your cabs, be sure to standardize on a polarity. I use Plus-Forward. This means when I attach the plus side of a battery to the plus wire of the driver, it moves forward (away) from the magnet. Some JBL drivers move Reverse by design, so I reverse wire them as required.

    If you standardize your polarity, then stock Speakon cables will do the job for you every time.
  4. What ever happened to hot and ground? When I wired the cable ends for a bannana to 1/4 inch, I just put the same wire to the tip as would go in the hot binding post.

    I'd like to know more about this stuff.
  5. Some drivers move the cone forward with voltage applied to the Hot/Red/Plus terminal. Others move the cone backward. It is up to the owner/builder to figure out which way the cone is moving by using a 1.5v "D" cell battery.
  6. Man I'm glad you asked this question, I've been wondering about those d@mn things too. I still have trouble with a 1/4" plug!:confused:
  7. Link to NL4FC Speakon Connector Wiring Diagram

    Link to NL4MP Speakon Cabinet Jack Wiring Diagram

    These two links show the wiring scheme I use for my bi-amp rigs. The Lows are handled by the #1 pair, and the Highs by the #2 pair. I use the Neutrik (Speakon) NL4MP jacks mounted in a Penn or Parts Express cabinet dish. The two jacks are wired in parallel. A single NL4MP in the rack is wired the same way, to accept the High and Low channels from the amp.

    Standard Speakon 4-conductor cables run from the rack and daisy-chain between cabinets. Highs and Lows are selected automatically depending on which driver is wired inside the cabinet.
  8. WHEW!!THanks for the replys, guys....BGAVIN, you've been a help to me many times, just reading through your posts and your spreadsheets...Do the cables split the highs and lows by themselves?? That's what I got from your last post...

    Sorry to be a PITA, but I'm curious and thanks again for whoiever has, and will reply
  9. The 4-conductor Speakon cables carry whatever signal YOU apply to them. The trick wiring is in the rack and cabinet. This lets you use box-stock cables, so you can replace a broken cable with another off-the-shelf replacement part.

    The diagrams I made show the industry-standard connections used for #1 and #2 pair of Speakons. You are well advised to follow standard conventions, especially if somebody else has to clean up behind you.

    At the amp (rack), the Lows will go to #1 pair, and the Highs will go to #2. Most of the amp manufacturers adhere to the Red/Positive/Plus thing... Bob Lee (QSC) posted all these details in an earlier post when I asked this question. Suffice to say, put the RED to PLUS and you will be OK.

    At the cabinet, you must test and insure that PLUS when connected to RED on the speaker, makes the speaker cone move forward (away) from the magnet. If all your drivers adhere to Plus/Forward, you won't have a polarity problem. For tweeters, etc, contact the manufacturer. JBL use Plus/Backward on some drivers, for some reason. Dunno why, but test for it anyway. I don't use compression drivers or tweeters, so it's a non-issue for me.

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