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Split neck.....help!

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by MaidenFan, Mar 15, 2006.

  1. I have a slight problem. The neck on my 6-year-old Tanglewood Rebel 4K has split. I don't quite know how but I suppose it's a result of not taking care of it when I was at school (I got the bass when I was 12 and am 18 now).

    Photos of the damage are below. The bass itself is worth a lot in sentimental value to be because it has signatures of over 20 members of the We Will Rock You London cast and band on the front and back of the body and also on the headstock. Plus this was my first bass so it has that value to it as well. I use a Peavey Grind Bass BXP4 as my main bass and this is more of a display piece.

    Sorry for the long explanation, but the long and short of it is....what the heck can I do? Is it worth trying to wood-glue it back together myself or taking the neck along to a shop and pay? Ideally I'd like to string it back up to concert pitch but this may put too much strain on the glued joint.




    As you can see it's quite a clean break, but there's also a hair-line crack about 5 inches down the neck.


    Any advice would be greatly appreciated :)

  2. 62bass


    Apr 3, 2005
    It can probably be repaired and if it's a clean break with no missing wood shouldn't be too hard. For work like that I use a 2 part waterproof glue (not epoxy) for boatbuilding-UF109. It takes longer to dry but dries very solid and doesn't creep under pressure.

    The problem is, you don't want any to get on the truss rod or all over the place and you want to be able to clamp it up firmly for at least 24 hrs which requires clamps and jigs to hold things in place.

    So, this is best left to a pro. I've done a few of these types of repairs and never had a failure. When properly glued the glue joint is stronger than the adjoining wood.

    I don't trust carpenters glue for this type of work and prefer the urea-formaldehyde glues over epoxy.

    That hairline crack worries me though.
  3. system 3 epoxy, or 2 part luthiers glue from LMII, and plenty of clamp time.
  4. 62bass


    Apr 3, 2005
    Epoxy is strong enough for sure and I use it when gap filling is required. In this case, since it's such a clean break not needing gap filling, I'd go with the UF type. I'm not familiar with the LM 2 part glue. You're right about clamps and clamping time. I'd do a dry fit first to make sure everything will go as planned.
  5. im personaly not big on the use of epoxy for much use, since it doesnt stain/sand as easy ( IMO of course )

    the LMII glue is basicaly a wood epoxy, works VERy well on oily woods like coco bolo and such. But it seems to work more like a wood glue *shurg* i like it.

    And like you said, ALWAYS dry clamp first, ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS

    Big mistake i made, i laminated a top of a new threw bass on THE WRONG SIDE, SO ALWYAS DRY CLAMP AND MAKE SURE IT WORKS.

    also, save any sanding dust from the bare wood if you end up needing to sand, it makes the best wood puty for any type of fills you need to do

  6. 62bass


    Apr 3, 2005
    Very good advice. Once that glue grabs hold there's no turning back.

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