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spraycan deft = orange peel

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by wilser, Mar 15, 2005.

  1. Hello,
    I finished a couple of instruments using ACE hardware brand spray lacquer in a can. I'm making a pickup cover for a bass and finishing it with DEFT spraycan lacquer (I plan on using this as the finish for a couple of in-progress instruments). The problem is that I can't seem to be able to achieve a gloss finish without orange peel effect on the lacquer. I was under the impression that orange peel came from the lacquer being too thick, but I thought this was pretty thin stuff on the cans.

    Anyway, anybody has any ideas on how to minimize this?

    Thank you.
  2. Worshiper


    Aug 13, 2004
    New York
    I think Hambone has said warming the paint can (NOT BOILING) thins paint even more.
  3. What method can I use for warming it? I am worried about the dangers.

    Here's what I mean:

    orange peel effect
  4. If the above still doesn't work. Maybe you can use some wet and dry sand paper to smoothen it, followed by a good buff.


  5. Trevorus


    Oct 18, 2002
    Urbana, IL
    That looks like the finish was put on thick. It looks like it was also left level, so it wouldn't drip.
  6. It's easy to warm them to just the right temp for spraying by filling your bathroom sink with hot water and letting the can float in there until it's as warm as it can get. House hot water is rarely above 108ยบ and it will begin cooling in the sink anyway. Shake it before and after and during the bath and you'll find a big difference. Michael was right too - you should wetsand the surface smooth before recoating.
  7. I will definetly try the warming the can thing.

    I have one question, though. What do you guys call a 'coat'? Do you consider a 'coat' just one pass with the spray over each area? do you spray a 'coat' until you see some kind of build up? or is it just until the surface looks 'wet'? In essence, how many passes with the spray do you consider ONE COAT?

    I think this is where I may be going wrong, I'm doing several passes with the spray in one session before waiting for it to dry and spray another set of several passes. Is this wrong?

  8. It depends on the type of spray system and spray material but what I try to do is to coat to the point that I've achieved a fully covered, flowed out coating with full, side to side passes that overlap to the point that the previous layer smooths out with the application of the subsequent pass adjacent to it. This sort of "pushes" a wave of wet spray ahead of the path of the strokes. If I've done it right, it will appear as a perfectly glassy smooth surface without any dull, grainy textured areas (thin, missed spots) or sags (too much paint in one place). If I'm to sand and recoat AND I got a good surface on the previous pass, I will recoat and then sand. If the surface isn't mostly smooth, I'll wet sand lightly before recoating.

    Some tips...

    - You will NEVER stop a drip by spraying more paint on top of it! Don't laugh, you would be surprised at how many people try to do this.

    - The initial coats of nearly any material should be lightly misted on and aren't necessarily needed to give complete coverage. They are more for giving the subsequent color coats a good foundation for gripping the surface.

    - Stir your material while adding thinner to avoid pigment shock.

    - When spraying with rattle cans, make it a habit to shake the can about every 3 or 4 passes throughout the painting session.

    - "Dry" is when you can run a clean finger across the surface and get a squeek without leaving a mark. Do this in an invisible area. "Cured" is when you can't smell any solvent coming from the painted surface. This will sometimes take days with spray can paints.

    - If spraying with cans in a very low humidity situation, move closer to the work surface. The solvents can literally evaporate before they hit the work and leave the paint coating looking "dusty" and dry.

    Hope this helps.