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The difference between thinnest and thickest is like a G-string width. <heh> So yeah, not much.
Yah, soft maple use on both natural Indo VM 70J and CV 70J with unmatch tinted color with neck.
I recall the Amber VM 70s P also has soft maple body, but maybe i am wrong......
Hello friends.
Weird idea but I'd like to try a gold anodized pg on my fiesta red CV 60s P. I think this looks is killer with maple fretboard, but I would like to check how it looks with my dark rosewood fretboard.
Do you know how to find one that fits ? Would a 40th anniversary work ? or any 13 holes one by Fender ?
Or a cheap good looking generic option ?
Or even better did some of you try and could share pictures ?
Thanks
Weird idea but I'd like to try a gold anodized pg on my fiesta red CV 60s P. I think this looks is killer with maple fretboard, but I would like to check how it looks with my dark rosewood fretboard.
Do you know how to find one that fits ? Would a 40th anniversary work ? or any 13 holes one by Fender ?
Or a cheap good looking generic option ?
Or even better did some of you try and could share pictures ?
Thanks
@ximun
This...
and , this.....
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1100267270?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.26d5wytmwytmZ6
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005525352656.html?pdp_npi=4@dis!MYR!MYR 97.54!MYR 97.54!!!145.00!145.00!@210321dc17029617324527106e9c66!12000033416003769!sh01!MY!1801748259!&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.productList_2005542503294.pic_2
Anodized gold pickguard on Pbass rosewood neck has nice 59s era Pbass look.
This...
and , this.....
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1100267270?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.26d5wytmwytmZ6
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005525352656.html?pdp_npi=4@dis!MYR!MYR 97.54!MYR 97.54!!!145.00!145.00!@210321dc17029617324527106e9c66!12000033416003769!sh01!MY!1801748259!&spm=a2g0o.store_pc_home.productList_2005542503294.pic_2
Anodized gold pickguard on Pbass rosewood neck has nice 59s era Pbass look.
Last edited:
Can someone please tell me what this bass lacks compared to an American Fender Precision of any year or model? This super inexpensive, but super sexy Squier just absolutely blows me away. The tone and playability are exactly what I would want in a p bass, all the hardware seems to be of good quality, unless it turns out I'm really just not picky about those things. But I'm from the "Squiers are junk for beginners…American (or Japanese) Fenders only please" generation. But this Squier has really made me rethink my life, lol. I realize I'm asking the Squier club this, and maybe I should just post a new thread asking this, but I know it has been done to death. Yet here I am.
Well, having just bought a loaded new limited edition affinity PJ body from another TBer, that puts me at 2 Squier bodies, but both have Fender necks, so I can't comment on the necks. Both bodies are excellent. (Both Indonesian, BTW.) First body is a CV 70s natural Jazz in maple, and while joins between wood pieces are visible, overall the body is completely fine. Routing quality in the cavities good. The new body is a 3TS with beautiful figuring in poplar, and the joins are not visible from the top. Under the covers, the routing is rough. I think the router bit needed changing. Many burrs and even a few nearly loose chunks of wood. Shielding paint was slopped on haphazardly.
The first body was stripped, but the electronics of the new body I will say are questionable. Mini Alpha pots, and IMHO not very good P and bridge J pickups. Very dark and high output.
Overall, my opinion at the moment is that the CV series is comparable to the MIM/American instruments, but the affinity series is a step down.
If I think I understand what you mean, if this bass had a Fender logo on it I guess I wouldn't be having this conversation, right? It is silly that the Squier logo would bother me, and honestly it really doesn't especially with this bass. I went to my local shop last night and played some US made p basses, and nothing about them made me want to give up this Squier! It makes me smile knowing I only paid $250 for this bass directly from Fender.com. This is one of those special "everything comes together" basses, for me. I just don't get some of the comments about the lack of quality in the hardware or electronics. The tuners "seem" fine to me, but I guess time will tell. The volume and tone knobs turn smoothly with a nice feel to them. The bridge is a standard bent bridge with threaded saddles, nothing crazy here. The paint finish is well applied and smooth. The wood grain shows through just enough to be interesting. It looks like it is a two piece body, which is pretty standard on even very expensive basses. Yes, the neck has a gloss finish, but that really has never bothered me over the years. Other than the fact that I had to just take the sharp edges off the ends of the frets with a few minutes of file work, this bass would have been perfect right out of the box.
For reference on how much I'm enjoying this bass, I recently got a EBMM Stingray Special which is amazing and I've written about that in the Stingray Special club thread, but this Squier just calls to me!
Congratulations! It's nice when that happens.
Enjoy!I have several Squiers and have only gotten one bass where a single tuner needed replacement "out of the box"… the rest work perfectly fine and have
for many many years. I have also only had one issue with electronics over the
years, it was on a 1999 P bass Special about twenty years in I had to replace
a bad tone pot so just replace all while I was in there. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
I have read several times (if I understood correctly) that you have a perfect alignment of strings and pickup poles on CV60s P bass. It is not the case for me on my chinese 2012 CV60P , the 20mm strings spacing at bridge is too wide, I think that with a vintage not high mass bridge it would be better centered.
Is it possible that my pickup is not stock if yours are centered ?
Or are yours no centered ?
Thanks
edit : it works well as is I am just curious
Is it possible that my pickup is not stock if yours are centered ?
Or are yours no centered ?
Thanks
edit : it works well as is I am just curious
I can't answer for someone else but I can maybe offer some useful info, to replace the bridge on that bass I am almost certain the bridge holes are slightly different than the standard, also the base plate on the OG is thicker so may possibly need/want to shim the neck after a bridge swap, if it were me and wanted to tighten up the 20mm spacing I would try different barrels first
the brass barrels on this older CV's are also thicker so you may or may not need longer saddle screws depending on your preferred action. I don't worry about "perfect" string/pole alignment as it's a magnetic field and makes no difference as long as string is not outside the pole.
the brass barrels on this older CV's are also thicker so you may or may not need longer saddle screws depending on your preferred action. I don't worry about "perfect" string/pole alignment as it's a magnetic field and makes no difference as long as string is not outside the pole.
Can you share some front shot of your CV60P? From bridge to neck he'll shot , and entire bass front shot without off angle.
I'll do one better at home if needed but I have this one in stock, slightly tilted but you can see the "non-centering" ?
Hello Ximun, I'm also from Bordeaux haha ! Your link isn't working for me, can you try reposting the picture here?
