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Squire P-Bass pot question

Discussion in 'Pickups & Electronics [BG]' started by DRCMesa, Feb 5, 2013.

  1. DRCMesa


    Feb 5, 2013
    I bought a Squire P-Bass off of Ebay and it looks like the pots have been changed and do not seem to be working as they should. This would lead me to believe they are not the correct pots. It seems hard to dial in the correct sound without the sound changing quickly. I would like to be able to turn the knobs and not have it jump from 0 - 10 so quickly.

    I am looking to replace them but need some guidance on doing so. This is the P-Bass that has 3 pots in a row and 2-ish pickups. It looks like the pickups from that current P-Bass but with an additional long pickup near the bridge.
    From Sweetwater.

    I guess the first question is what do these pots do?
    1. Closest to the jack.
    2. Middle pot.
    3. Pot closest to the neck.

    What type of pots should they be as I am looking to replace them? (see layout above). ie. Audio, Linear, what K. I think 250k is recommended but I am open to suggestions.

    I know these questions seem a little newbie but the main issue is that all I can find in the Squire P-Bass is the one with no bridge pickup.

    Thanks for the help,
  2. Cadfael


    Jan 4, 2013
    Germany, EU
    Hi DRC,

    You find the original wiring of your bass as 1.2.21 in my wiring compilation (in German - but you will understand. Scroll down and click "Bassschaltungen389.pdf - 6.2MB).

    Your bass has two 250k lin. pots for P-PU and J-PU. The tone pot is a 250k log. pot.

    Are there any quotes on the pot housings? Like 250kA / B / C / D ...

    The right volume pot is a matter of taste! You can use lin. or log. pots on your bass!
    I would use 250ks for the volume pots. You can change the tone pot to a 500k pot but 250k are the normal ones.
    The capacitor (this green drop) has .068µF (68nF) on a Squier Standard PJ. Very common are .047µF (47nF) capacitors. It's a matter of taste ...

    Edit: An original vintage Fender Jazz Bass and also Precision Bass has 250k log. (AUDIO) pots on all positions ...
  3. Mushroo

    Mushroo Supporting Member

    Apr 2, 2007
    Massachusetts, USA
    Please don't take this question the wrong way, but: how do you know the pots are wired incorrectly if you don't know what they are supposed to do?
  4. DRCMesa


    Feb 5, 2013
    I am pretty sure they are wired correctly it just seems the pots are jumping from low to high very quickly. They are acting almost like switches. So when I start to roll them nothing happens then they jump. I will check the housing when I get home to check the values.

    My biggest curiosity is what they did. With them jumping I can't tell which pot controls which feature.
    For instance.
    The pot closest to the 1/4" jack. Is this a tone or volume pot?
    The middle pot. Does this adjust which pickup I am using?
    The pot closest to the neck. Is this a volume pot?

    All of the guitars I have owned have had a switch with individual tone and volume controls. So as far as a bass with 3 pots, 2 pickups, and no switch I am a little lost.
  5. Mushroo

    Mushroo Supporting Member

    Apr 2, 2007
    Massachusetts, USA
    Cadfael's link shows that the factory wiring is (from closest to the neck to closest to the jack): neck pickup volume, bridge pickup volume, master tone. Did you check if there are any values stamped on the pots, as was suggested to you?
  6. Cadfael


    Jan 4, 2013
    Germany, EU
    Mushroo already gave the answer ...

    You can also make the "coin test".
    Put the amp volume not too loud (will cause a more or less loud "plop").
    Take a coin and know onto one of the PUs. than turn the knobs up/down).
    You will here which PU reacts to what know. When the PUs only have less trble, it's the tone pot ...
  7. DRCMesa


    Feb 5, 2013
    All that makes sense. I just wanted to be 100% sure before I started swapping stuff out. I am going to check the pots when I get home. I think when I order them I will get 3 of each kind and do some ear tests to see what sounds better.

    Thanks for the help.
  8. Cadfael


    Jan 4, 2013
    Germany, EU
    NO ...

    The tone pot MUST be log.!
    Otherwise you get an on/off switch!

    So, 3 log., 2 lin. would be right.
    An get another capacitor!!! There is much argue about expensive capacitors. Leo Fender also used cheap ones (and so do I) ...
    Get a 47nF (0.047µF) capacitor.
  9. DRCMesa


    Feb 5, 2013
    If the "no" was for me that was the plan.

    I was going to try ..
    tone = always linear
    volume(s) = swap linear and audio taper to see which I liked. I read on a few other articles and forums that some people prefer audio for volume and some prefer linear for volume. I also read some prefer to put a different one on each volume.

    I got it for around $50 bucks so I can't really do much harm. :) This is kinda a fixer upper project. Maybe pickups next.
  10. Cadfael


    Jan 4, 2013
    Germany, EU
    Tone pot is AUDIO / LOG (not linear) ...

    I own a Squier Std. Jazz Bass (same line / years as yours) and I love it! It rurned my Squier Std. Jazz Bass (Candy Apple Red) into a 60s Motown Machine with Fender flatwounds, both metal covers, plastic pots, tugbar and third strep holder ...

    By the way ...
    The bridge PU has the same measument as the neck PU (92 mm) which is "wrong". But it doesn't have one magnet with steel pole pieces but 8 seperate magnets!

    I was satisfied with the original pots.
    I only changed the jack as this is the worst thing of the whole instrument. I pu in a switchcraft jach (but neutrik jacks are gold as well!). Change the jack too!