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Stagg EUB megathread

Discussion in 'Electric Upright Basses (EUB's) [DB]' started by derrenleepoole, Jul 2, 2007.

  1. Mister Cbass

    Mister Cbass

    Jun 30, 2011

    I've received my stagg yesterday, I've got one few years ago, but this one look better, finish is good, no buzz etc...
    Quite happy with.

    Maybe could you help, what's the use of the nut hole pic 3, and the use of the piece on pic 4 ? Thanks !
    IMG_20200820_145333.jpg IMG_20200820_145324_1.jpg IMG_20200820_145351.jpg IMG_20200820_145406_1.jpg
  2. Timothy Taylor

    Timothy Taylor

    Jun 26, 2019
    Mister Cbass, I am unsure of what either may be. My Stagg does not have a nut in that area, nor does it have a piece like you show in your picture. I am sorry I could not help. The piece definitely looks a hand crank tightener of some sort. The nut in the body is over the cavity for the retracted foot, so I can't even guess for what it might be used.
    Mister Cbass likes this.
  3. Mister Cbass

    Mister Cbass

    Jun 30, 2011

    Yes, m'y previous doesn't have that hole nut too.
    No idea.
    Maybe I will send a e-mail to the stagg support.
  4. Maybe @DoubleMIDI will chime in, since he knows these instruments pretty well I think!
    Mister Cbass likes this.
  5. Jamarvic

    Jamarvic Supporting Member

    Aug 5, 2009
    Hello everyone,
    I’m pretty sure that is for tightening some type of a optional stand.
  6. Well, not really.
    I have two older ones (thin headstock) and one newer one (thick headstock).

    New is relative, it‘s one of the first series with the thick headstock.
    But nothing like on your bass there.

    I‘m speculating that it might be possible to fix the endpin there to avoid rattle. But then you need a tool to loosen the endpin to get it fully in for transport.

    It‘s rather low position on the body below the battery compartment and output jack. So no cables there and thick wood to be able to press against the endpin.
    Mister Cbass likes this.
  7. Mister Cbass

    Mister Cbass

    Jun 30, 2011

    Maybe you're right about the endpin. I've noticed that it rattle ( means vribating ? ) A little when the edb stand too vertically. When I' ve adjusted it higher and incline more the dB to my shoulder, and no rattling.

    I've received a little tools kit with the edb, 8 will try to see if one could adjust the endpin ( tools + cable jack+ soft bag + the mystery piece in pic 4)
  8. agfrag

    agfrag Supporting Member

    Feb 24, 2006
    Novi, Mi
    Hello folks. I just finished reading the entire thread (up to now) and thought I'd offer some observations and rambling comments!

    A little background:

    I have previously owned way too many EUB's; the NS Design NXT's, the CR4M, CR5M, the Omni 4 and 5 string, and the European carbon fiber laminate 6 string (wish I hadn't sold that one, sigh...).
    I've also owned a 4 string Eminence EUB, a really nice sounding Palatino 500, and the original version of the Warwick Triumph Rock Lite EUB. And made a ½ scale (38 inch scale) 5 string EUB I call “Bolt” as the neck bolts on. I have also owned 3 double basses in my 47 years of bass playing (my how time flies!).

    And... just bought a Stagg Deluxe.

    I'm going to explain why I like the Stagg the best (...so far!).

    I have studied piezoelectric element transducers (pickups) and tried many and modified many, always looking for “the tone”.
    Here is a thing I have noticed with several of the EUB's I've owned:
    The piezo pickup elements for the most part suffer from what I call mechanical saturation. In other words, the design of the bridge to pickup interface can sometimes compress the piezo element such that when you pluck a string, the piezo can't compress over it's full range any more because it's already squished so much by the static pressure of the strings, and the output signal gets limited. Not a big deal, this is simple physics... except when applied to an audio circuit!
    When a piezo element is over saturated, it can sound a little wonky (this is real hard to describe) sort of honky, or compressed, or... just not good. And it definitely doesn't sound upright bass-ish when this happens. Have you ever noticed that EUB's tend to sound more “woody” when played gently?

    Another thing I've noticed is a difference in the type of piezo pickup. There are three types that I am aware of: discs, solid crystals, and cables.
    In my experience, discs and crystals tend to over saturate more and sound less acoustic.
    The cable version, like the one the Stagg has, does not saturate... as much (actually I've never heard a cable piezo element over saturate, and I've owned several different varieties of cable, and tried them on the Eminence, the Steinberg, and the Palatino basses, and my own of course!). I think the reason why is that the round cable is built like a coaxial cable. If you put a lot of force on a cable (like the force of the bottom of an upright bass bridge foot!) it will indeed squash a cable and the top and bottom of the cable will take the brunt of the force, but the sides are only restrained by the shielding and plastic cable jacket, and this allows for expansion in this direction, and thus allows the piezo surface in that direction to experience much less compression, so overall the entire cable surface does not reach over compression.

    The only two basses I've ever owned that did not have the piezo squash or quack or whatever you want to call it, “out of the box”, were the Triumph and the Stagg... they use piezo cables!
    Side note... another interesting thing I've noticed, was that the original Triumph and the Stagg, with their cable piezos, tend to have a very slight “metallic” sound. Which I really like...

    The cable piezos also tend to have a bit more initial “punch” to the plucked note than the discs or crystals. Sort of like the initial bloom of a plucked double bass note... sorta kinda like. This, in my opinion, pushes the tone needle a little more in the direction of an acoustic double bass. I think the reason for this is that the cable piezo allows for more headroom, and more of an initial output volume.

    However, balancing the flat bottom bridge feet on a round cable can be a problem, usually resulting on the bridge leaning toward the fingerboard after you tighten the strings. That was why I had to return the Triumph... dang bridge leaned way over toward the fingerboard... oh, and the tuners were stripped, but I digress. I see now that later Triumph versions moved the pickup into the bridge itself, dunno how that is set up. Also, I think I read in this thread that the Stagg had some leaning issues with the original cable piezo design, but by looping the cable under the bridge feet, that problem is eliminated. Clever fix for only the cost of about a half inch extra of cable per side!

    My rosewood fingerboard is a bit cagey. It has a slight scoop between the 1st and 7th markers, but only under the A and D strings, which is worthless, but hey they made an attempt it seems... Not sure if I'll try to fix it myself, or take it to a good bass fingerboard luthier.

    And I am still struggling with the volume balance when bowing. I turned the E string piezo volume down quite a bit, and it's very close to perfect, but not quite... A and D string are a bit quieter than the E and G.

    For those who are thinking of bypassing the electronics altogether, here is a thought.

    I have used the EMG BTC tone control on a couple instruments I've built and I used a standard 250Kohm volume pot in front of it with great success. So, for about US$100 and the cost of a 250K audio taper pot, you could replace the electronics in the Stagg, and use the two provided holes in the metal bracket, and the existing battery hookup. And the EMG uses a tiny amount of power, my 9 volt batteries last anywhere from 6 months to a year, depending on usage. And the BTC itself sounds great. Check it out!

    Ok, sorry for the long post. I've got another one about the stand and mount issue that I solved, but that'll be kinda long so I'll end here!
    clintrubber and bassically_eli like this.
  9. The piezo cable is made of synthetic piezo material. It‘s not so much the cable form but that this material is much more damped (damps the eigenresonances).
    If you want a pickup from synthetic piezo material for double bass, try the Shadow SH-965NFX (bridge foot pickup from synthetic piezo foil).

    Connecting a piezo to a 250 KOhms pot is not a good idea. There are mods posted in the Stagg thread to keep the impedance buffer but bypass the Ass boost and aux input. That would be better.
    There is a lot I dislike even with my RDL Stagg. Bridge (even height of strings, heavy adjusters), low fingerboard curvature, bad scoop (on mine it was inverse, a bump), no afterlength damping, short pegs, missing backplate at the headstock.
    Nothing that couldn‘t be solved, but I would prefer a new bridge (without adjusters) and a higher fingerboard curvature which is hard to get because the fingerboard is rather thin at the edges.
    It‘s nice for a vacation instrument and after several mods is really playable, but it is made by bass guitar techs for bass guitarists who want to have something uprightish. It is not designed by a double bassist and hardly makes them happy.

    An Italian MK EUB is more expensive, but much closer to a DB than a Stagg.
    bassically_eli likes this.
  10. jimmyb

    jimmyb An Avid Indoorsman Supporting Member

    Mar 12, 2003
    Elkton, MD
    Anyone have an issue of volume being lower on the E string? I've set my string height nice and low and it plays well. But everything played on the E string is at a noticeably lower vol. Any ideas?
  11. The string might be too low, which is a problem if the bridge design on the Stagg.

    But there are also two pots in the electronic compartment where you can control the volume from both pickups under the leg.
    Don’t know which is which, trial and error...
  12. jimmyb

    jimmyb An Avid Indoorsman Supporting Member

    Mar 12, 2003
    Elkton, MD
    Thank u DoubleMidi. It wasn't the problem but it got me on the right path. I'll describe the fix in case future TB members have this issue.
    Opened the pre and found the 2 pots. One seemed to control the vol on all strings and one did nothing. I assumed it was the piz under the G side of the bridge providing all the sound I was getting, while the other piz was not working. That explained a weak E string. Pulled the bridge, traced the wiring from both piz's to the preamp. And there u have it...E side piz jack not pushed in all the way. Looked connected, but wasn't. Adj both pots to even out string vol and sounds beautiful.
    This is a fantastic site
  13. fws6


    May 30, 2005
    Hi I wanted to start playing rockabilly slap upright bass again after a 15-20 year hiatus.... living in an appartment so bought the Stagg a couple of weeks ago with the idea to have something cheap (in case it wont last) and not to noisy (not to disturb the neighbours).

    so far, pleasantly surprised. Picked up the bass for 200 used, adapted the bridge a bit, fixed tailpiece rattle, upgraded tuners with ones that actually work ;-) and put on nylons

    heres my first attempt at slapping after many years of not playing at all....

    And one week later I added a (cheap, NOS) gut D and G. Slaps even easier and sounds a bit warmer.

    okay I understand that it is just amateur playing, and I especially have to buy a metronome now to keep time better. So dont roast me, but I am happy to be back on practicing again.
  14. agfrag

    agfrag Supporting Member

    Feb 24, 2006
    Novi, Mi
    I've been comparing the Stagg to some other popular EUB's, and it's interesting to get a side by side comparison of the different designs manufacturers have come up with. From left, a 3/4 size double bass (for reference), Yamaha SLB200, Eminence, NS Design CR4M, Stagg, Palatino VE500/Harley-Benton, BSX Allegro, and the Aria Pro.

    The lines are what I used to try to line up the nut and bridge to approximate the same visual size, there is certainly some error due to the angle of the photos, etc., but it's in the ballpark.

  15. zevv


    Apr 13, 2017
    Piezo orientation & location

    Hi, I recently started bowing on my Stagg, and I've noticed some behaviour that seems to be related to the way the piezos pick up the vibrations. These were never a problem for playing pizzicat, but for bowing this kind of takes the fun out of the instrument:

    - The outer 2 strings sound pretty "direct", but the middle 2 strings have a bit of a distant sound, as if they were miked from a larger distance. This also causes the volume of the middle 2 strings to be noticable lower then the outer strings
    - The orientation of the bridge matters a lot for the sound - if I move it slightly pointing up or down, the whole character of the picked up sound changes, picking up more or less body and or overtones
    - If I bow from the side of the strings (only possible on E and G of course), the sound is *much* louder and also "rounder" then if I bow horizontally (as you normally would)

    All the above make me feel that the location or orientation of the pickups is not ideal in this instrument for bowing. I've lifted the bridge and noticed the pickups are just two piezo wires that are folded rather randomly under the bridge (also half buried in sawdust, but I removed that)

    I feel that the direction of the sound waves when bowing (horizontally) are kind of orthogonal to the natural direction of the sound moving through the bridge (vertically). Are there any known adjustments that can be done to "properly" place the piezos, or maybe replace them by a different kind of pickup altogether?


  16. clintrubber


    Oct 16, 2011

    Have an Stagg EUB upcoming and was wondering if there's already an 'established' clip tuner type that works best for most people?

    Having good experiences with their pedal-sized PolyTune for electric bass & guitar,
    for the Stagg I'm considering the TC Electronic UniTune clip tuner.

    Curious to your suggestions, thanks!
  17. ramirez


    Jan 26, 2018

    I use a PolyTune from TC electronic, which I think is essentially the same as the UniTune but with the added ability of tuning all guitar strings at the same time, which I don't need for the bass. It works great. The clip is big enough so I can clip it in the bridge of my EUB and leave it there while practicing to check every once and again my intonation. It does what it should, no complains.


  18. clintrubber


    Oct 16, 2011
    Thanks for the reply, good to hear. I'd save me some by going for the UniTune clip type at little over half the cost of a PolyTune clip. Just curious, I saw the clip itself itself is metal, but understood the casing of the tuner is plastic, right ? Still sturdy?

    I have cheaper plastic clip tuners around with flimsy plastic battery doors etc, not built to last, so hope the TC Electronic clip tuner is better in that respect, despite being.... plastic ;-)

  19. ramirez


    Jan 26, 2018
    The clip is metal and connected with a metal hinge to the casing of the tuner. The casing is plastic but it feels quite sturdy. Mine have survived a few gigs and rehearsals without any damage, and it has seen quite a lot. Several times it has flown away from the headstock of my bass after a too enthusiastic section of a song without a single scratch. Which is maybe my single complain about it (and clip tuners in general): I wish there was a way to better securing the clip to the head of the bass. Don't get me wrong, the clip is quite sturdy, but I wish there were like a screw mechanism or something of that sort. In any case, I guess you won't be jumping around with the Stagg, anyways (although you can never know :-D )

  20. clintrubber


    Oct 16, 2011
    Hi LEo, Thanks, great to hear. Plan to attach the clip tuner to the bridge, perhaps it can also be secured in some way. Indeed, little to no jumping around with the Stagg intended, but let's see :)

    Thanks again!

    ramirez likes this.
  21. Primary

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    Here are some related products that TB members are talking about. Clicking on a product will take you to TB’s partner, Primary, where you can find links to TB discussions about these products.

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