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Starting an EUB mockup...some opinions please

Discussion in 'Luthier's Corner' started by Mon Rominee, Mar 1, 2005.

  1. Just working out an idea to fleshout... 41" scale, resin fingerboard (I may do a puzzlepiece shaped inlay @ the octave position)

    Unsure of the bridge, hope for it to be a piezo, hopefully with tuners, mixxed with the magnetic.

    Any thoughts or suggestions?


    (edit: trying to upload image...)
  2. There are not a lot of them out there- what are you going to use? I'm considering trying to mount a butchered P-bass PU or two for my slowly-evolving 5-string EUB's. By 'resin' fingerboard, do you mean treated wood?
    Sorry I'm all questions & no thoughts or suggestions. Actually, I do have one. Don't be like me; actually finish the danged thing!
  3. By resin, I mean a sheet of cycolac-type plastic from a company called vycom. Very durable, and in this case, free.

    It will have very little radius, since I wouldn't know how to use a bow...I just want something to get some unreal gutteral low full tones. I was thinking just a standard soapbar....

    Body will prolly be a sandwich of nice poplar with a middle stringer of ebony that I have. Which opens up the possiblity of some interesting contouring.

    The neck will be maple. I prolly won't use any kind of neck adjustment system. This is purely experimental.
  4. Also, is there any systems you can buy (tripod) that I can mount to this that are detachable so I can also play this thing strapped on?

    Suggestions people, thoughts....anything?...this things been viewed 19 times, and no comments... oh well. Does it suck that bad? I know it's quasi-Zeta like, but it's indeed different.
  5. paintandsk8

    paintandsk8 Pushin' my soul through the wire...

    May 12, 2003
    West Lafayette, IN
    Well, for one, if you want unreal gutteral low full tones, you are going to have to bring that pickup further from the bridge. Also, I think you are going to have to allow more room for the bridge, especially a headless type bridge.

    About the stand, most amatuer builders are using straight cymbal stands, with tom mounting hardware. You can see my post "The EUB is finished" for more details.

    Personally, I think that the body shape is fine, but I don't like the specs. With the soapbar, regular bridge, and flat radius, you are basically building a glorified super long scale fretless.
    If that is what you want, then more power to ya, but I personally like an EUB that immitates a real DB more closely. That's just my $.02.
  6. You're right about it being essentially a super longscale fretless.

    And I thought the same thing about the pickup placement. I was also playing with the idea of hiding it underneath the f.b. in some way...I just wanted an extended playing surface...maybe just a piezo is in order. I am just curious, and do searches for different ideas all the time...more a dreamer than a builder, tho I tinker all the time. I've built necks to test ideas before, and have built basses (albeit with pre-made necks) and do CNC routing programming, as I would here.

    If I was to go more traditional with the neck, what is the common f.b. radius for an Upright?

    I apologise if I was hasty there, wasn't my intent...just curious. This is a whole new world to me.
  7. Also, I wasn't sold on headless at all, just liked the lines.

    I would probably go with an open style headstock, moving forward. I'm also a fan of low-profile for the side, with the f.b. not floating, but more like an NS upright, where it hugs the body...

    iirc, you can buy piezo elements, and I'd likely imbed a par in a self-molded bridge. I gent where I work does some off silicone-based flexiable molds...and works with some very dense resins...
  8. Did around at Bob G's site(bobgollihur.com)- I'm pretty sure I've looked at complete specs for traditional DB there, as well as TONS of info on EUBs.
  9. Hey Mon, (rasta voice off)

    How are you going to attach that fingerboard? Cycolac is about as friendly to adhesives as, oh... Rick Turner is to luthiery posers! Beyond that, the only other thing I know about it is that it was used for the clear shields on space suits and for football helmets. You ain't gonna break it!
  10. I was thinking a combination of roughing up the surface (@80 grit), and also possibly some slight trapezoidal channels to add a bit more mechanical bond (crisscrossed or something)...I am unsure what kind of adhesive, but we have some 3M 2 part plastic epoxy here at work that supposedly has excellent strength and good acceptance to both wood and plastic. (good lap shear results too), and stuff like Excel ONe (polyeurethane glue...but it's really foamy and I hear it's kinda brittle when cured)

    again, just experimenting with alternatives, and freebies. Suggestions?

    This fingerboard material is blackish grey.
  11. Trapezoidal channels? CNC? Man, keep working- if you incorporate all your resources & some really insane ideas, you may just have something!
  12. right? I have enough material and more than enough supplies to do a BUNCH of lap-shear to failure tests (we have a pressure press for testing our cabinet fly rigging)
  13. paintandsk8

    paintandsk8 Pushin' my soul through the wire...

    May 12, 2003
    West Lafayette, IN
    cycolac? silcone molds? cnc? trapezoidal channels? lap-shear testing?

    Maybe we can get this thing certified by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety before long! :p

    But about the bridge, I wouldn't be crazy about imbedding a pair in anything. From experience, I can tell you that getting positioning just right for good sound is quite an excercise. I would hate for you to go to the trouble of mounting these in a bridge, then being stuck with the sound for better or for worse. You can buy bridges that have piezo's in each saddle, but for anything other than that I would just sandwich them between the bridge and body.
  14. hahaha.......

    I know alot of it is overkill...(again, dreaming....) but if it's at my disposal. :D

    seriously tho, the easier the better, imo. I just finished another bass so I want to get right back onto something...but something entirely different (for me anyway)....

    I thank you for your thoughts.

    Tinker Mon
  15. I gotcha on the trap. channels - that's a cool idea. If the adhesive cures hard enough, you'll make a dovetail right in the assembly.
  16. That's exactly my thinking, yes. Tho I'll never be able to get the fingerboard off again... :smug:
  17. teej


    Aug 19, 2004
    Sheffield, AL 35660
    Is Gorilla Glue a polyurethane glue? If so, then yes, it's very foamy and always oozes out of whatever space it can find. It also expands a LOT. And it's quite brittle, but freakishly strong.

  18. Yeah, gorilla glue...essentially the same as Excel. Yes, very strong, permeates ANY crevice. But yeah, it's the brittle part that worries me.

    Hambone had actually mentionned an adhesive in another thread recently. I gotta look for the name, and then call them for a sample.


  19. Rick Turner

    Rick Turner Commercial User

    Jul 14, 2004
    I design and build electric basses and pickups under the Turner, Renaissance, and Electroline brand names.
    Franklin's urethane glue foams less than the others. We use it a lot for laminating, gluing on fingerboards, scarfing on pegheads, and for other joints that get machined. It's more heat resistant than PVA glues, yet you can still take a fingerboard off with heat. Clamp time is about an hour and a half. No water necessary unless you want it to kick quicker. Not too brittle at all. Great stuff in the right places. We use LMI's white glue...vastly superior to TiteBond..., also Smith and Co Tropical hardwood epoxy and various viscosities of superglue. Hot hide glue for restorations of old stuff, but I probably shouldn't talk about that here...it gets too close to lutherie.
  20. Does the water aid in capillary action? That's what I would imagine. Thanks for the tip Rick, I really appreciate it.

    re: luthiery, I dare not call myself that. An aspiration, for sure, but I'm content with tinkerer at the mo'.