Stingray 5 setup - anything to beware of?

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by carl-anton, Aug 14, 2002.

  1. Today I did my first setup. Could some of you setup experts please tell me if it seems ok.

    With 1st and last fret depressed, there's space for a piece of paper folded once between the 12th fret and the bottom of the string. A little more under the b-string, a little less under the g-string.

    String hight is 3/16" measured from the fingerboard to the bottom of the string at the 12th fret. 1/8" for the g-string. Is that too high? I guess I like my action high, so I can dig in without fretbuzz. With low action you have to tolerate the kind of buzz that starts just a tad after the string is plucked, right?

    I didn't use new strings, so I guess my intonation will have to be redone, once I get new strings. The ones that are on now are only a week old, but already have dents in them, so I guess they don't count. Question: Does the saddles (when the bass is intonated proberly with new strings) have to make out a line like this \ (g-string closest to neck)? My saddles are right now like this < (a-string closest to neck).

    My bass is a Stringray5, with DR lo-riders on it (.045 .065 .085 .105 .125)

    Please let me know what you think.

    Thanks :)
  2. Hi folks, I just got a Stingray 5 (brand new, rosewood, honeyburst, it kicks ass :) ) and though it came set up almost perfect, almost perfect isn't 100% perfect. Therefore, I need to do a full-blown setup on it.

    Is there anything different about a Stingray to keep in mind when it comes to setup? I've worked on everything BUT a Stingray (including my Warwick, which has more variables than most basses), so I though I'd ask more knowledgeable folks before I started turning screws.

  3. I merged two threads that were kinda the same. ;)


  4. PICK


    Jan 27, 2002
    Sydney, Australia
    action and string height are purely personal. it doesnt really matter what the saddles look like as long as the string plays in tune.
  5. FalsehoodBass


    Jul 22, 2001
    Denver, CO
    agreed, if there was a set shape you were supposed to use like / or > then the bridge would just be fixed in that shape. don't worry about it as long as it's in tune.

    also agreed on the personal preference thing. If you want to know the factory specs, go to the FAQ on the Ernie Ball Webpage and they'll show you the numbers.

    Oh, and KIN... nothing special that i can think of... i think that it's awesome that you can adjust the trussrod whilst you're playing for immediate results.
  6. I've read the FAQ,

    "The ideal string height for our basses is 3/32" or 2.4mm between the bottom of the string to the top of the fret on both the E and G strings The G string can be slightly lower due to the fact that it is the smallest string."

    - but it doesn't say at which fret you have meassure it. Is measuring at 12th fret allways default?
  7. pkr2


    Apr 28, 2000
    coastal N.C.
    -" but it doesn't say at which fret you have meassure it. Is measuring at 12th fret allways default?"


    This is just my opinion but I would think that if a default measurement exists it would be at the end of the fingerboard.

    Also just my opinion: If a bass is adjusted to perfection, the string heigth would be the same at the 12th fret and at the end of the fingerboard.

    The strings should be paralell to the neck from around fret 5 to fret 7 to the end of the board and progessively closer from fret 5 to 7 to the nut.

  8. Thanks Pkr2. That's info like that I'm after. But my bass doesn't even come near to that describtion. The distance between fingerboard and string doubles from 5th to last fret! But if I want my setup to be like what you described, what do I need to change? Give the neck a little more relief (bow, right?) and then lower the strings? Please help me!
  9. pkr2


    Apr 28, 2000
    coastal N.C.
    I'll try to help you figure out what you need to adjust but you will need to answer a couple of questions first.

    Please don't think that I'm talking down to you with anything that I say or ask. I don't know how much you already know about terminology and set up procedure. Anything that is not clear, I'll go over again.

    Fret the g string in the first fret and the last fret. Measure the string heigth @ the 12th fret.

    You probably don't have anything to get a precise measurement so just go by the string diameter.

    Example: The clearance is twice the diameter of the string / three times the dia. etc.

    If you happen to have a capo it will make this step easier. If not, you may have to get someone to help hold down the strings while you measure.

    Look at the clearance between the bottom of the string saddles and the bridge plate. How many g string diameters?

    Give me those measurements and we'll go from there.

  10. I don't think you're talking down at all. I'm totally new to this, and just lucky somebody are willing to guide me.
    I'll measure these things tomorrow. It's midnight here, and I don't wanne wake up the house!

    Thanks :cool:
  11. Ok, here goes:

    1st and last fret pressed down on g-string theres only room for a piece of paper (not folded) between the top of the 12th fret and the bottom of the string. I.e. practically no space at all, but just enough to tell that the neck hasn't warped backwards.

    From the bottom of the g-string saddle there's 1/8" to the bridgeplate. From the bottom of the g-string at the saddle down to the bridgeplate there's 4/8"
    d-string: about 2/8" clearance between saddle and plate. 9/16" from bottom of string
    a-string: 2/8" and 5/8"
    e-string: 7/32" and 9/16"
    b-string: 3/16" and 17/32".

    Hope it's usefull! :)
  12. pkr2


    Apr 28, 2000
    coastal N.C.

    Your bass should set up just fine. IF there was insufficient space between saddles and plate, a neck shim would probably have been in order. Highly unlikely on a Stingray.

    You must decide at this point whether you want the lowest possible action or an action that suits your personal playing style. The latter is strongly suggested.

    After each adjustment be SURE to retune to standard pitch, preferrably with a tuner for max accuracy.

    1- Lower all the saddle rollers untill you get fret buzz on each string from the 12 fret to the end of FB.

    2- Raise the rollers untill the buzz just clears up from 12 fret to end of board. Don't worry about buzz at nut end at this point. Don't forget to retune.
    When you get close to right, a very small amount of turn can make a lot of difference. It's called "sneaking up" on the adjustment.

    3- check for fret buzz from nut to 12 fret. If you have buzz. loosen the truss rod about 1/8 turn and let bass set for a couple of hours to settle in. If buzz is still there, repeat TR adjustment untill buzz just goes away.

    4- You should now have a buzz free action that is very low. If the action is too low(likely) , adjust each bridge roller untill action is satisfactory for your style of playing.

    5- adjust pick up heigth if needed. This step really should conform to factory specs for your particular bass. Too close and the magnetism of the pole peices will damp the string killing sustain, too far away will reduce output.

    A couple of points to keep in mind: The truss rod is NOT an action adjustment although it has a bearing on the action.

    Work slowly and very methodically. Understand what each adjustment does and how it does it as you go along.

    Be patient. Some adjustments may have to be repeated several times to get the desired result.

    Make sure that the tools that you use fit properly. Stripped screw heads and rounded out hex sockets can truly ruin your day.

    One more thing, Retune after each adjustment. :) :)

    If anything is unclear I'll try to make it clearer.

  13. Thanks alot Pkr2! Your help is really appreciated. I've lowered the strings - tried not to let my buzzonoia get in the way of playabillity - and loosened the truss rod just a tad. My bass now plays like a dream (though I never played one). Thanks again! :)
  14. pkr2


    Apr 28, 2000
    coastal N.C.
    You are welcome, Carl-Anton. It's great when a plan comes together. :)