Strange car problem. Need talkbass mechanic expertise.

Does it already have a tort guard?

If not that should help. (sorry couldn't resist)


Seriously though, electrical issues SUCK!! like you don't already know right?

Check the crank sensor....

Best of luck.

 

That whirring is your fuel pump.

 

Make sure your battery cables are on tight.

 

I would bet money you just have a bad/loose battery cable.

 

Cars these days have so much electrical / electronic stuff that there are computers in them whose job it is to keep track of the other computers. Yes, really...

So there's usually some kind of dynamic power controller that does electrical load monitoring, powering stuff on and off as needed or not, with the intent of preserving the battery charge balanced against the convenience of having stuff 'on' all the time with phantom power (that stuff that always runs even when it's "off" so you can still turn it on with a remote, for instance...)

There was a recall for a relay in the power controller in my Titan recently.

So my guess would be that the power controller is going into some kind of 'deep sleep' power conservation mode when it shouldn't - or not waking up when it should. A 2001 might be a little old for this level of technology - I think it started becoming more prevalent a few years later. But maybe Hyundai was being advanced for their time - and maybe early versions of the technology weren't as sophisticated as the newer stuff. So I could be off base but it might be something like that...

In keeping with the other responses - one reason it might think it has to shed electrical load is that it is sensing low battery voltage - either due to bad connection issues (check both the battery terminals at the battery and the ground lead where it connects to the chassis...) or because the battery is fading. 2001? Original battery? Good run if so, you probably got your money's worth... Older than 5 years? Could be time for a good load test...

As much as winter gets everybody's attention for dead batteries, and it's definitely dangerous being stranded in the cold, my experience has been that it's summer's heat that is actually the death knell for most batteries.

 

Did you say original battery?? Wow! I'm usually buying a new battery every 2-3 years. I'm inclined to think it's battery related. Battery...battery connections.......

My car, 2001 Nissan Maxima, has one of those special battery connectors that is connected to some sort of module that I guess monitors the power distribution process. This piece broke loose once while I was on the highway. Car went completely dead! Coasted over to the median. Was able to secure it temporarily until I got to a Nissan place the next day.

 

I'm putting my money on a bad battery cable/clamp. It seems to be changing with temperature and such, also when you hookjper cables its sending power via a different path (outside of the battery clamp) I had a very similar issue, after getting starter rebuilt, new starter, I decided let me actually try cleaning the battery terminals. Upon removing the clAmp it broke in half.

 

Before all the computerized stuff, I would say it is an internal problem in the battery. One of the connecting links between the cells may be broken and intermittent.

Now - I don't know enough about the new stuff to know if there is some kind of power controller that can cause this.

Suggestions - To determine if it is the battery or not -
Borrow another battery, or buy a used one for testing and see if the problem goes away.
Keep a voltmeter in the car and see what the battery reads when it is "dead". Check when key is off and and when you are trying to start it (under load).

Good Luck!

 

Put a load tester on the battery.

 

You could have a loose connection between your hoofinator valve and the carburetic catalyst that's preventing the alternator from sending power to the starter manifold which is causing excess back pressure going into the throttle body manuflector, causing a short between the alternetic pressure regulator and the battery.

 

I'll go with the "Change the battery" angle. That and make sure that all contacts (cable ends and battery poles) are cleaned and tight. You may even have corrosion built up on the connectors which could cause similar issues.

Wait, wasn't there a thread on TB like that once? where there were like 7 pages of "it's the battery"?

 

+1

lowsound

 

another possibility i have not read yet:

intermittent short in the ignition switch or wiring thereof.

 

I had a similar issue years ago. It ended up that one of the battery connections had corroded away from underneath. It could not be seen from casual inspection because the top was OK. It wasn't until I disconnected the battery and pulled the cable off that I could see that much of the metal was gone. Unloaded voltage measurements were OK but you couldn't push any current through the tiny conductor path left. Voltage would drop once you turned on the lights (or of course THE STARTER).

So disconnect your battery and inspect the cable clamps for corrosion on the battery side. Heck just grab em and twist now and see if they are simply loose.

 

Anyone with a car, and a set of combination wrenches should own one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRCJM

Clean everything, and put some of these on the terminals:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/ac...ion-washers/_/N-25jo?itemIdentifier=8170_0_0_

Disconnect the negative terminal first, and re-connect it last so you don't blow up your battery if you short the positive terminal to ground with the wrench!

For added protection, finish with this:

http://www.iboats.com/Battery-Protector-6-oz-Aerosol-Can-Permatex/dm/view_id.887236

 

Yeah, those anti corrosion washers are great. I have installed them every time with a new battery. The battery I had that corroded was on a bought-new VW Jetta that didn't have them. I never thought about it until the day it failed. I have used the anti-corrosion goo also and it works good.

 

I'd try a Hyundai Forum,
I use one for my elderly Sonoma, works out well.