Strap lock loosening the button

Discussion in 'Hardware, Setup & Repair [BG]' started by dazmond, Aug 15, 2013.

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  1. sowilson


    Jul 5, 2013
    toothpick and wood glue (aka titebond) let dry, then trim. Next, drill a pilot hole for the screw (a small brace or yankee screwdriver is the ticket), then apply a little paraffin to the screw. The screw, will set tight without breaking, stay for years, and come out if needed. Every woodworker knows this
  2. Roaddog77


    Nov 11, 2011
    Wow. This thread has gotten a little hostile for no apparent reason since I've been gone. Come on guys. I don't think the OP cares to scroll through pages of debate and rants about shoving a little glue in a screw hole. I've never experienced a problem with it and recommend glue, toothpicks and the original size screws if possible. Major Softie disagrees. Who cares. Let the OP figure out what he wants to do and move on.

  3. 96tbird

    96tbird PLEASE STAND BY

    You aren't from around these parts are you? :D

    This topic is a weekly occurrence as is the ensuing squabble. Once you're used to it, it's quite entertaining.
  4. well there goes 10 minutes of my life I'll never get back
  5. 254 stringer

    254 stringer Supporting Member

    Apr 15, 2010
    Waco Texas
    I find that the birch toothpicks change my tone too much. I prefer to use hickory drumstick splinters.
  6. Rockin Mike

    Rockin Mike

    May 27, 2011
    IME and FWIW regular straplocks, popular as they are, sit too far away from the wood and tend to loosen the screw through a levering action:


    I use this type, they allow the screw head to go all the way down close to the wood, so the tendency to torque the screw loose is much less:

  7. Ah, so, it has come to this.

    Well, I've tried to be very respectful of those of you who have not had the same experiences as my self, and simply give you my info as clearly as I could. When I first posted, I did not know I was defying the conventional wisdom. I was only relating what I had seen.

    I'm afraid I do not quite understand why people should be so threatened by such a little thing, nor do I understand guy n.'s definition of "credible," since he also says he's sure I think I'm right. I think he was trying not to call me a liar, while he was calling me a liar.

    Gentlemen, do whatever you like to your strap button holes.

    As I said, very very interesting.

    Rockin' Mike, I certainly see the mechanical advantage of the system you showed us, as the Schaller system definitely does apply a lot of levering force, but I've never used those locks. How easily do they connect/disconnect?
  8. Rockin Mike

    Rockin Mike

    May 27, 2011

    Not as easily as a Schaller; how do I describe it? The strap button itself is not on the screw that goes into the wood. To put the strap on you have to unbutton the top leather flap, then put the strap on the button, then put the top leather flap back on the button. Taking a strap off is the reverse.

    They're designed to leave the strap on all the time. Since they sit so flush with the wood, they fit easily in a gig bag or most cases.

    It takes a couple of minutes to switch straps so it's not something you would want to do between songs, but I've always been able to wait until break time on those rare occasions I ever wanted to do that anyway.

    Lately I've started widening the hole in the leather where the wood screw goes through so the straplock can rotate freely around the screw without putting any torque on the wood screw. I've never had a screw come loose since.
  9. georgestrings

    georgestrings Inactive

    Nov 5, 2005
    OK, I've probably done atleast 100 sets of straplocks, if not more - I'll stick with what I've seen 1st hand...

    - georgestrings
  10. Billy K

    Billy K

    Nov 5, 2009
    North Bay Marin
    this thread has turned into a >>>>>>>>>.But all you experienced toothpick guys have to agree this needs to be a sticky. On a second note I saw a guy here on TB that counter sunk the strap button a little and it looked to be a cool idea be nice if he put his picture back up and talked about his process.I bet at that the naysayers will but this thread into a 50 to 60 page rant.LOL Love ya brothers.
  11. 96tbird

    96tbird PLEASE STAND BY

    Judging by the regularity of this subject arising, of course this should be a sticky. The problem is that the discussion always degenerates into an argument. There's the picks and glue camp. There's the picks, no glue camp. There's the drill and plug camp.

    This subject (lol) it too polarizing to be a sticky! (lol)
  12. This is precisely, exactly the problem. The fact that it's a flat surface against a curved one makes it worse. It works in the same manner as a claw hammer, slowly pulling the screw out.
  13. Turnaround

    Turnaround Commercial User

    May 6, 2004
    Toronto Canada
    Independent Instrument Technician
    I always put a bit of wax on the threads of screws where they will come in to contact with glue. Just helps in removal later on.
  14. 96tbird

    96tbird PLEASE STAND BY

    ^^Leverage. Especially with a felt washer under the button allowing MORE movement. o_O

    Maybe a thin piece of leather but a felt that ^^ thick is just silly, that button be flopping around like a fish on the bottom of a boat.
  15. It sounds like someone just needs to make some strap buttons and strap locks that don't suck and fit on actual bass guitars.
  16. georgestrings

    georgestrings Inactive

    Nov 5, 2005
    I don't have any issues with my Schallers, and have them on over a dozen instruments - but have to say that the newer design by LOXX looks pretty good...

    - georgestrings
  17. Eric Moesle

    Eric Moesle

    Sep 21, 2001
    Columbus OH
    Loxx looks interesting, but with the Schallers, in a pinch you can use any strap lock-less strap on the buttons on the bass itself.
    With the Loxx, you are out of luck if you forgot your strap with the Loxx things on them.
  18. Pilgrim

    Pilgrim Supporting Member

    The only acceptable solution is to position a 12" pole barn nail in the strap opening, then drive it firmly into the instrument. If the body splits in half, well, that's just too bad.


    If you want to be namby-pamby about it, you can take a 3/8" cable installation bit and drill a pilot hole a mere 12 inches into the body.

    Guaranteed to hold!!!! Who cares if the nail sticks a few inches out the other side?? For neatness, you can grab a hacksaw and chop the mutha off!!

    Of course, you can also use a 3/8 x5" lag bolt, but that's for lightweights.

    No more of this "momma's boy" toothpicks and glue!!! I'm going for the POLE BARN SOLUTION!!!!!
  19. I put Schallers on all of mine with the toothpick and glue method and don't have any issues either, but it still seems ridiculous you have to do this on such a relatively simple product used on such a largely standardized platform.
  20. 96tbird

    96tbird PLEASE STAND BY

    Definitely food for thought. :)
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