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String Identification Help!

Discussion in 'Strings [DB]' started by TrevorOfDoom, Jan 29, 2019.


  1. TrevorOfDoom

    TrevorOfDoom Supporting Member

    Jun 17, 2007
    Austin, TX
    I bought a DB a while back, and it's nice. Action was a little off, so I took it in for repairs.
    As I've never dealt with a DB (I'm an EB player trying something new), I asked the repair guy about strings.
    He talked about tension, material, whatever.
    Then identified the string on my bass as Eurosonics.
    Cool.
    I got the bass back from the shop and it played great, but had a dead E string.
    So I ordered a Eurosonic Light E string from Gollihur.
    They sent me one.
    Here's where things get iffy.
    The string I recieved from Gollihur was a very different color and much higher gauge than the string I took off.
    Not knowing what to do about it, I put the new string on and figured everything would be fine.
    Everything was not fine.
    My endpin is touching the back of the bass inside, and it won't stay in tune and I need to take it to the shop pronto.
    But I still need a proper E string, and apparently I do NOT have Eurosonics on my bass.
    I've attached pics of the bridge ends and pegbox ends, and hopefully someone can correctly identify the strings on this bass.
    Thanks in advance!
    IMG_6431. IMG_6432.
     
  2. They’re Eurosonics. The ADG May be ultra lights.

    What’s this about your endpin?
     
  3. TrevorOfDoom

    TrevorOfDoom Supporting Member

    Jun 17, 2007
    Austin, TX
    According to Gollihur’s site, the Eurosonic Ultralights are yellow with a red stripe at ball end, and solid yellow with a red band at headstock end.

    But in fairness, Gollihur also describes the Light set as yellow with aquamarine stripe at ball end, and solid aquamarine at headstock.
    My A,D, and G aren’t solid aquamarine.

    The higher tension of the new E pulled too hard on the bridge, pulling it out and tilting it forwards, which means the end of the endpin that’s inside the body is touching the back wall.
     
  4. No, that’s not right. The tension didn’t move the bridge, the windings did. You have to hold the bridge crown in place with your thumb while you tune up.

    Why that would affect the endpin still makes no sense. Is your endpin block loose from the ribs?
     
  5. TrevorOfDoom

    TrevorOfDoom Supporting Member

    Jun 17, 2007
    Austin, TX
    Ah, I see what's happening.
    I described incorrectly what's happening.
    I'm so used to the EB terminology.
    Substitute "tailpiece" for every time i've said "bridge".
    The higher tension string pulled too hard on the tailpiece, pulling my endpin out of the hole.

    My bridge is fine. Sorry about the confusion.
     
    Selim likes this.
  6. Something is very wrong. String tension helps hold the endpin *in* the hole in the block.

    Did you accidentally tune the E up an octave?
     
  7. TrevorOfDoom

    TrevorOfDoom Supporting Member

    Jun 17, 2007
    Austin, TX
    Nope.

    The endpin was already somewhat cockeyed when i bought the bass.
    The higher tension pulled the tailpiece forward, exacerbating the endpin issue.
     
  8. dhergert

    dhergert Gold Supporting Member

    Jan 17, 2018
    Blue Zone, California
    KFS, is it possible that this is a block-less double bass? Or am I confused?

    Trevor, my reference is to an older type of bass that was constructed without neck blocks and end blocks.

    What do you know about your bass?
     
  9. The tension difference of a Light E vs. an Ultralight E is very noticeable (28.0 vs. 23.5 kp).
    But even the Light Eurosonics are lower tension than most DB strings, so if anything is wrong with your end pin, there is a problem with your bass. It's not the string. The set might be a bit unbalanced with the heavier E but nothing that should harm your bass structurally.

    I would recommend showing the bass to the luthier. Either it is a simple task for the luthier to correct that, then it doesn't cost much, or there is damage to the block, then it is probably a lot more expensive, but not a task someone inexperienced with double bass maintenance should try to solve.

    BTW, a picture of the underside of your bass can help to understand where the problem might be, but even then a trip to the luthier would be the best thing to do.
     
  10. dhergert

    dhergert Gold Supporting Member

    Jan 17, 2018
    Blue Zone, California
    Not knowing whether the end block is broken, or if there ever was an end block, I'd be sorely tempted to set this bass on its back and loosen the strings enough that they only hold the bridge in place until the bass can be seen by a luthier. Also put a pillow under the neck heel so that the scroll doesn't rest heavy on the floor. The sound post might slip out of place, but loosening strings might save the bass from any further damage. If the sound post does slip, the luthier should be able to put it back in place.

    I definitely bow to any more expert suggestions...
     
  11. TrevorOfDoom

    TrevorOfDoom Supporting Member

    Jun 17, 2007
    Austin, TX
    Well, one mystery is solved.
    The A, D, and G strings are actually Helicore Hybrids.
    Now, to get this bass to the shop!
     
  12. I don't know what the strings in your photos are, but am very sure that they aren't Helicore Hybrids... Sorry.

    Is it possible that the hole for your endpin is too big for the endpin assembly? That's the only thing that I can think would cause your problem...
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2019
  13. TrevorOfDoom

    TrevorOfDoom Supporting Member

    Jun 17, 2007
    Austin, TX
    Well crap.
    Seems you’re right.
    I found a few pics online of the Hybrids that look right, but it was only the E string, as D’addario (annoyingly) color-codes the strings. : /

    And as for the endpin issue, i don’t know the initial cause, only its current state.
    It’s cocked at an angle.
    When it had lower tension strings on it, the angle was subtle.
    When i brought it into the shop initially, the tech did note it and say it would have to be addressed eventually.

    However, i don’t understand the confusion as to how higher tension strings would pull out my endpin.
    Simple physics, IMO.
    L-shaped tailpiece being pulled hard towards the bridge as well as being pulled the towards the body, and the fulcrum of the corner of the body where the tailpiece rests.
    Physics say the tailpiece will pivot on that corner, as it’s being pushed down as well as towards the body at the bridge.
    If my endpin was properly made/crafted/repaired/whatever, then i can see how the design on the tailpiece/endpin/body assembly would be stable for a loooong time without needing any attention.
    But my endpin was wonky, and is now wonkier.
     
  14. TrevorOfDoom

    TrevorOfDoom Supporting Member

    Jun 17, 2007
    Austin, TX
    I'm sorry, i don't mean to seem ungrateful for the help and advice.
    I know I have a great deal to learn about the double bass, but in this case my greater need is string identification, as it's only a matter of time until I get the bass to a luthier to address the endpin.

    It's the danged yellow band at the headstock end. Helicore Hybrids don't have a yellow band there, but neither do Eurosonics Lights.
    And the Eurosonic Ultralights don't have any green silks at all on either end, so it can't be that.
    Add to that the fact that the Eurosonic Light E is a MUCH higher gauge than the string that came off my bass, I think I can rule out Eurosonic almost entirely.
    And D'addario color-codes their headstock silks, so my strings cannot be Helicores.
     
  15. These seem to be transparent colorless synthetic flatwound strings with metal windings underneath.
    If they have a metal core (probably visible att he ball end or tailpiece end of the string, they are probably Eurosonics aka Presto Nylonwound. If they have a synthetic core they might be some Innovation string (but not Braided, Honey, Polychrome which are metal wound and also not Super Silvers which are synthetic round wound).

    There may be others, but then I don't know them.
     
  16. No. Those lacked a neck block but had tailblocks. Blockless violins often lack corner blocks but as far as I know blockless basses have corner blocks. Absent a tailblock to anchor the strings to the corpus would tear itself immediately apart.

    I think the OP bought himself a CCB and is having cheap bass problems.
     
    Last edited: Jan 30, 2019
    dhergert likes this.
  17. Again, that is not correct. As I attempted to explain last night, string tension pulls the tailpiece, tailgut and endpin collar toward the center of the bass.

    If the collar is loose in the block you can stabilize it by wrapping the collar in cardstock to achieve a snug fit.

    But it sounds like you have other problems than this.
     
  18. TrevorOfDoom

    TrevorOfDoom Supporting Member

    Jun 17, 2007
    Austin, TX
    CCB?

    It is a Cremona, fyi.
    The tech who did the initial bridgework said it wasn’t too bad, would make a decent beater bass. That’s all i need it to do.
    I knew the endpin would need to be addressed eventually. I just hoped it’d be a bit further down the road.



    Oh. “CCB”= cheap Chinese bass?
     
    KUNGfuSHERIFF likes this.
  19. TrevorOfDoom

    TrevorOfDoom Supporting Member

    Jun 17, 2007
    Austin, TX
    I assume that the whole assembly works functionally to stay together when everything is set up properly, yes?
    Well, when i got it the bridge was moved waaay far forward.
    Would that screw up the assemblage?
     
  20. I doubt it. Sounds like a cascading series of problems is to blame.
     

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