Something has been bothering me lately. I've got a Skyline Bob Glaub (P-bass) strung BEAD coming very soon from Bass Central (Thanks Gard!). I was looking at the Fender P 5er and it has a string tree before the B and E and another one for the A,D, and G. I think the Mike Lull P5 also has a string tree for the B and E. I also read this at another site: Getting a great sounding lo B is a complicated issue and there is a lot more to it than the magic inch. There are a number of reasons that newer design 35" basses sometimes sound better but many of the same priciples can be applied to 34" basses. When 5 strings were all the rage a lot of builders rushed their designs and there are a lot of design mistakes but many can be addressed with some minor adjustments. I play a PV Dyna 5 that with a few small improvements sounds just fine to me. Many great builders put a lot of thought into improving designs and into analyzing why one bass design works better and it got back to simple acoustics and string angles. Having the proper string break at the bridge and nut is essential and is a common area where older designs fell short. Probably the simplest improvement is to be sure that the nut is the proper height and that there is enough string break. If the string break is too shallow or deep it will choke the string and not allow it to speak, quite often something as simple as a string tree will help. On my old bass I've added an eye hook that the string passes thru b4 the tuner and it helps. Another common problem is that on many basses the lo B tuner is crammed too close to the nut and it will not allow a good string break, there may not be much you can do in this situation. I did a search on string trees and all I found were people saying they were for only keeping strings from popping out. They mention nothing about affecting sound. Will I maybe need to add a string tree for the B and E?