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Suggestions for a 12" or 10" speaker for a 1 cubic foot box

Discussion in 'Amps and Cabs [BG]' started by Lobaw, Jul 31, 2007.


  1. Lobaw

    Lobaw

    May 14, 2007
    Seattle, WA
    Hey there everyone. I wanted to try a DIY experiment with a combo I've got. The box is roughly 1 cubic foot and I wanted to replace the original speaker with a 12". It can also be a 10", if it can take a bit of power. I can port it if necessary. I would like to x-over to something that will get up to around 7K to 10K, unless the speaker can do that. I am looking for a speaker which will allow for a useable low end of around 50hz, although the lower the better. This doesn't have to be a very loud box, but it would be cool if it could be loud enough for a medium volume rehearsal or a "standards" type gig. The box dimensions are roughly 17"H x 17"W x 9"D. I've seen a couple of DIY boxes with a single 10" x'd over to a mid/high unit that could handle approx 200 watts. Those boxes used hifi woofers, which I'd be inclined to try, but I can't locate anything that approximates the drivers used in those older designs. One was by a fella named Len Moskowitz, I think.

    Thanks for any help.
     
  2. Eminence S2010 neo 10" driver. Optimal in 0.94 cubic feet tuned at 60 Hz.

    The driver for the Moskowitz box is long obsolete and gone. The concept is not, and you can do exactly what Len did with your choice of driver. He simply used the correct cabinet volume and tuning for his driver.

    I bought an S2010 for exactly the project you have in mind. Mine is going underneath my racked Minx 110 and will be sized accordingly. The 35w will do the job for adult level rehearsals, or intimate venues that don't require a lot of volume. The tiny size of both components makes cartage a snap.
     
  3. 62bass

    62bass

    Apr 3, 2005
    That Minx looks very cute in the rack. :) I still have an almost 20 year old one that's working and I've beat it up pretty good. The one weak spot with mine is the input jack connection that keeps breaking due to flexing of the front panel. I've "fixed" it a couple times now. It must sound very good with one of the Moscowitz styled boxes. Even the Minx as a combo did pretty good. I bought a Yorkville Sound XM50C to take over for the Minx and it's a good one too. A bit more volume but essentially the same sound. Works great for practice at home and small room rehearsals or folk club gigs at sane colume levels.
     
  4. Mine has a scratchy pot, so I'm trying Deoxit first. If that doesn't work, I'll do a re-pot on the board. The OEM parts are available for about $5 per pot. The irritating part is having to remove the board, meaning all the mount points on the face plate.

    I'm still hunting for a schematic for this board. I can see plainly that servicing this board is very easy. It uses Illinois Capacitors, no Chinese junk. Recapping this board is a cinch, when the time comes.

    I bought a 24mm precision hole saw that I want to use to punch Neutrik "D" series holes in the back chassis. One for Speakon, a second for 1/4" Neutik. Or perhaps the Speakon/1/4" combo, as this model Minx won't accept 4 ohm loads.

    The S2010 is a neat little driver for a tiny box. It is louder than the 2510-II, but doesn't go down as low. The S2010 is perfect for a Mini-Me cab under the micro rack.
     
  5. Lobaw

    Lobaw

    May 14, 2007
    Seattle, WA
    Thanks.
     

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