Dismiss Notice

Psst... Ready to join TalkBass and start posting, make new friends, sell your gear, and more?  Register your free account in 30 seconds.

Suggestions?

Discussion in 'Basses [BG]' started by Dave Metts, May 16, 2001.


  1. Ok, I know that this is the third time I've put up specs for you all to look at, but I hope this is the last time. I'm really thinking about making some heavy changes to the current specs I have here, but I want to go ahead and get my specs finalized and frozen now so that I know how much money I'm going to need to save.

    Fretted:
    DP Custom 5-string bass
    Custom body/headstock shape
    Contoured body (Spector, Warwick Thumb)
    35" scale
    Hipshot Ultralite Tuners (Black)
    ABM Bridge (or Hipshot 'A' if ABM is n/a in black)
    Black metal knobs
    Ash body
    Zebrawood top
    5-piece neck (wenge/purpleheart/wenge/purpleheart/wenge)
    2 EMG 40J pickups
    18v Aguilar OBP-1 preamp/EQ
    (volume, balance, bass, treble)
    Ebony fingerboard
    Custom 'Pi symbol' inlay at 12th fret
    (no other inlays)
    Dunlop flushmount straplocks
    Neutrik locking output jack

    Right now the hardware and shape are the only specs that are frozen. So here's my main question... Would these woods give me a good combination of growl and cut? Think a mixture between say, a Spector and a Warwick. If not, what suggestions would you make? As of right now, the body is standard natural ash, not swamp ash. I will have to see if Mr. Pushic can get a hold on some swamp ash for me. If there are absolutely ANY changes you would make, please don't be afraid to tell me.

    Also, I'm pretty well decided on the preamp. My other main area for change is in the pickups. I was thinking about an EMG 40DC in the neck position, and an EMG 40J in the bridge. Is that a better idea than what I have spec'd right now? How about two 40DCs? All of your input is greatly appreciated.

    Gotta run! Thanks again everyone.
     
  2. And another quick question for the Spector freaks out there...

    What woods are used in the Czech and US Spectors. I know they have solid figured maple bodies, but are the necks maple? Also, would a solid maple body approximate the sound of a solid figured maple body pretty well?
     
  3. Did you say you wanted a neutrick connecter out of your bass? For one why? Are you going to bi-amp your bass? Why not go for a high and low stereo output ( 2 1/4" jacks ). I think that if you do A neutrick out it's going to limit what you can plug into..... Also since I can't remember wether or not a neutrick sends/recieves a balanced signal rather than your normal unbalanced 1/4" instrument cable it could be a bad thing. I think that by doing that your limiting yourself on the gear youd be able to use in the future........................However you can still plug a good ol' 1/4" into the center of a neutrick connecter so maybe I was just rambling...... Find out if A neutrick is a balanced cable though........if it is you'll probably need a transformer b/c not everything you'll plug into will accept a both unbalanced / balanced signal...........just think about it......... everything else sounds okey dokey.
     
  4. Yeah, I'm not 100% sure on the Neutrik jack. As far as I know these are what Conklin basses have on them, and I know they accept a standard 1/4" cable. The main reason I'm looking into one is because I'm sick of stepping on my cable and having it pop out of my bass, hehe. I'm SURE that can't be good on the amp.

    I'm still looking for more input on the other stuff, mainly just opinions on whether the current specs will meet my demands (ability to cut through the mix with a little growl).

    Thanks for your post.
     
  5. bassics

    bassics

    Nov 27, 2000
    Newark, Ohio
    I used to have problems with stepping on my cable, but I found that by simply looping the cable between the body and the strap button, the cable stays pretty much out of the way.
     
  6. After giving everything a lot of thought, I've drastically changed my specs, but mainly just in the area of woods.

    Fretted:
    DP Custom 5-string bass
    Custom body/headstock shape
    Contoured body (Spector, Warwick Thumb)
    35" scale
    Hipshot Ultralite Tuners (Black)
    ABM Bridge (or Hipshot 'A' if ABM is n/a in black)
    Black metal knobs
    Swamp Ash body
    Quilted Maple top
    Red and Black finish (See Spector Blue and Black finish)
    5-piece neck (wenge/maple/wenge/maple/wenge)
    2 EMG 40J pickups
    18v Aguilar OBP-1 preamp/EQ
    (volume, balance, bass, treble)
    Ebony fingerboard
    Custom 'Pi symbol' inlay at 12th fret
    (no other inlays)
    Dunlop flushmount straplocks

    Will that neck be stiff enough for a good B? I remember that neck stiffness was being discussed as an important factor in a good B not too long ago. I'm really hoping Dave Pushic can get ahold of some swamp ash for the body. If not, what are some of the differences between swamp ash and natural ash? Also, given that this bass will be mainly used for metal/hard rock, would it be more wise to go with 40DC pickups instead of 40Js? Perhaps one of each? That's the main point I'm stuck at now, but I think everything else will basically be finalized.

    Suggestions/comments/insults are all greatly appreciated!
     
  7. Suburban

    Suburban

    Jan 15, 2001
    lower mid Sweden
    Neck will be stiff - wenge is precisely that!
    Swamp ash is slightly lighter and significantly softer than ash. Swamp ash should be more mellow with a softer attack, but with a mape top it would be veery subtle differences.
    DC pups will add some possibility to increase versatility, by different coil taps. I would choose that, but that's just me....what's "just you"????
     
  8. rickbass

    rickbass Supporting Member

    Da5id- I'm putting the finishing touches on the same process you're going throught, too.

    Something I found helpful in as far as making sure I had some aspects covered I would have otherwise forgotten - check out www.kingbass.com/order.html

    As for the ash, IMO, don't even CONSIDER anything but swamp ash. It's plentiful on the market. Dave P and I have lined up some pretty rare woods for mine, so I know swamp ash is abundant from scouring the web for my woods. Luthiers describe swamp ash as bright, warm and has lots of "pop." Lightweight, too. It's the same wood that made pre-CBS Stratocasters so prized...swamp ash resonates like crazy. You can find out more about it by plugging the term, "tone woods" into a search engine.

    As for the EMG's, I'm not real familiar with them, but don't they come with their own built-in preamp and the pots are included with them? I know their J models do. So, you could save the cost of the OBP-1, I'm guessing.

    On the Neutrik, my thinking is in line with metro-trash; it's overkill. If this was an amp head and a cabinet, I'd say it's a good idea. Is there a Neutrik cable offered with a 1/4" jack on the other end ?

    Finally, don't forget a THOROUGH shielding job.
     
  9. Yeah, I must have been way off base on that Neutrik jack thing. I thought I remember reading somewhere that Conklins had a locking 1/4" jack on them by Neutrik, but now the Conklin site says that it's their own design. Ah well, I did drop that part off in the last round of specs. As far as the EMGs go, I know that they're active pickups, but I don't know if they come with pots and all of that good stuff. Most applications I have seen include a separate preamp, a la Spector basses and Sadowsky 24 fret 5-strings. I'm not 100% sure that I'd be able to split the coils on the DCs. I don't see why not, but I don't know how differently active pickups would work in this situation. The main problem I'm worried about with the 40J pickups is hum if I happen to solo one or the other. I'm also worried about losing a bit of low-end. This is the part that's going to be really hard for me to decide, because I don't know much about pickups/electronics. I'll take any help you all can give me.
     
  10. Check out figure 'I' on <a href="http://mouser.com/catalog/cat_606/139.pdf">this</a> page. Isn't that what you meant? It's just a normal 1/4" jack that locks. I'm pretty sure that's the one that Conklin uses (at least on the Groove Tools).
     
  11. Yep, that looks to be it! Maybe I'll look into getting one of these after all. I'm sure it couldn't hurt.

    Do you know if the locking jack will work with a standard 1/4" plug?

    Thanks for finding that for me!
     
  12. Here's the neutrik locking jack I put on my bass. It's just a normal 1/4" jack with a locking system. I think the others are getting mixed up with the other types of sockets that neutrik make

    <img src="http://www.btinternet.com/~louis.gardner/Bass/tuners.jpg">

    hope this helps

    Louis
     
  13. Yep, that is definitely it! Excellent....

    So Louis, does that jack work properly (lock and all that) with a standard 1/4" plug or do you need some sort of special cord? Thanks a bunch...

    Also, this thread seems to be turning into a discussion about Neutrik jacks, heh. I still need some opinions on those specs, especially the pickups. If any moderators want to split this thread into a separate discussion about locking jacks, it might be advisable so people can find the information better in case they happen to be searching for it.

    Anyway, thanks for the replies everyone! Keep 'em coming!
     
  14. odie

    odie Supporting Member

    No you dont need a special cord- 1\4 inch is fine.

    The wood on the neck will be very stiff and stable, wenge is a very good choice. Does DP use reinforcement rods(graphite) or just a truss rod, not that it matters Im just curious?!!!
     
  15. Well, since he builds custom basses I think it's up to the customer to decide what kind of reinforcement will be used. I think by default he just installs a truss rod. I remember somebody else on here was getting a Pushic bass built with a 5 or 7-piece neck and two graphite reinforcement rods. That should be stable enough for anything!