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Tall Font Russian True Bypass Switching Noise / Crackling / Signal Loss

Discussion in 'Effects [BG]' started by Pulex, Jul 11, 2016.

  1. Pulex


    Apr 13, 2009
    Hello everybody

    My Wren & Cuff Tall Font Russian makes some serious noise when turning on the pedal. I made a quick sound sample (Jazz Bass > TFR > Tech21 Blonde > Focusrite Scarlett 18i20) where you can hear a loud noise when I press the switch. When I'm holding down the switch while I play, there's almost no signal (usually I don't keep the button pressed, I did this just for illustration purposes). There are no batteries involved and I tested the pedal with different patch cables, so this shouldn't be the problem.

    Before I re-solder the whole true bypass switch, can you tell me where the noise is coming from? Like this, I wouldn't have to check each and every wire of the switch.
    The solder joints on the switch seem to look ok (only on the red wire there's not too much solder).

    Or is it even a bad switch?

    Thanks a lot for your help!

    Attached Files:

  2. MGR

    MGR Inactive

    Jan 18, 2015
    Bronx, NY
    Not an electronics expert but just had the same problem. It was just a bad switch. Do you feel any weird resistance in the switch before it engages? Mine did that, and the results were the same. Loud pop and signal loss.
  3. Also had a couple of Wren and Cuff pedals do it, was a bad switch. Swap it out and it'll be fine!
  4. Ranger Nessy

    Ranger Nessy

    Mar 29, 2011
    Very likely a switch that's gone faulty - the signal disappearing when you press the footswitch is one sympton of a broken switch. Unfortunately 3PDT footswitches can be prone to such failures. Cheaper ones naturally tend to be more problematic than expensive ones, but even high end versions can develop issues over time - it's just the nature of mechanical footswitches. The Alpha and CIC versions (amongst others) are good examples of better 3PDTs - they're more expensive than, say, the miscellaneous variety that can be found on eBay for example, but are better quality.
  5. Crater


    Oct 12, 2011
    Dallas, TX area
    +1 to "replace the footswitch". There are downsides to true bypass/mechanical bypass, this is one of them. Re-soldering the switch won't help, and could possibly damage the switch further.
  6. ParallelSuns


    Apr 18, 2016
    Mine did that as well and I sent it back to the builder. He fixed it and sent it back quite quickly. I wasn't even the original buyer of the pedal. But to be fair I gigged heavily with that pedal. It was the only one on my board (aside from tuner) for a long time. So I wasn't surprised the switch gave out. I had to tighten it down quite a few times actually.
  7. Pulex


    Apr 13, 2009
    Thanks for the replies.

    That's a pity. I guess it's just bad luck but it's kind of annoying if you buy a "boutique" pedal for $200+ (that's what I payed here in Europe) and you have a broken switch while the "cheap" EHX Bass Big Muff you once had ran without any problem. I used it quite a bit, however, and it could have happend to any other pedal, I guess.

    Ok, then I start looking for an appropriate switch which apparently is not such an easy task here in Europe...
  8. Primary

    Primary TB Assistant

    Here are some related products that TB members are talking about. Clicking on a product will take you to TB’s partner, Primary, where you can find links to TB discussions about these products.

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